Today I went to turn my car on, and my car just made a beep noise which followed by a message on the screen saying STOP! Brake fluid check owners manual. What does this mean? I have 33k miles on it, and it was about 49 degrees out side (if that matters).
View 6 RepliesHow the rear, high center mounted brake light (ie "3rd brake light") intermittently lights individual bulbs, but never all at once. It was also causing an annoying "Check Brake Lights" warning plus beep on the dash (on every brake). Till I get it sorted I simply disconnected the 3rd brake light which completely turned it off and just gave me one warning/beep (instead of lots of them).
I spoke to VW about it yesterday and wasnt impressed by their attitude, so last night I tried plugging it back in to see if it was still the same now that my battery should be topped up due to change of house and longer trips. To my surprise at first it worked perfectly, all bulbs lit up.
However the more I tested, the less lights lit up. It was quite strange, they would "dance" on an off right in front of me. Wiggling the wiring had a small effect, but it didnt seem to be a wiring issue. So I plugged it out and left it was it was (disabled). However to my annoyance on my trip in today, I start getting repeated "Check Brake Light" warnings beeps (remember, its disconnected so it should do it once only) and even more irritating every time the warning came up on the dash the front left headlamp would flash on and off once! What the hell is going on with the lighting system!
I have a very annoying "check brake light" warning popping up in my dash with a small beep every time I brake. It seems that some of the LEDs are sometimes not illuminated but in a sort of varying configuration. Is this possibly a connector issue? (where are the wires coming from?)
Do I need to replace the LED-bar as a whole or can it be mended in subunits?
When I have to work on the light, do I REALLY have to remove the entire backseat and hatshelf (as WillemBal did to get rid of a fly that was stuck there!) or are there less invasive procedures that can be performed?
Turned my car on this morning and heard a long loud beep, i look at the car at its saying "Check coolant level low - Check owner's manual"
Turn the car off (engine still cold) pop the hood and coolant reservoir is almost bone dry, way below min level. Check underneath, no apparent leaks, no puddle, etc. Turn car back on, no warning light, drive to dealer, the service advisor looks at it and says there should be no way it's that low that soon.
He said in the morning its common for it to be low but after the engines warmed up it should be higher (and it was) but still below min level. He thought that it was strange and topped it off. Said to keep and eye on it and it will gradually gone down since its 40% water and when it slowly evaporates the level should go down.
So not sure if i have a leak or my car came with low coolant from the factory or something else even, but check your coolant levels
I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
I have a 2000 VW Jetta GL. A few weeks ago I noticed my charging light come on followed by abs and airbag lights. Which would mean that the alternator is not charging the battery. However I kept on driving and this light would go off. However when I hit a bump on the road this light goes off meaning that the battery is being charged by the alternator. I recently installed a sound system in the vehicle which worked without problems for a few weeks before I started having this problem. Since then I have changed the alternator, battery and taken out the sound system. I now have a 125 amp alternator instead of a 90 amp alternator. The charge light doesn't come on anymore after startup but the abs, airbag and emergency brake light with a beep is now occurring.
View 3 RepliesEvery time I speed up or slow down my ABS, TC and parking brake lights turn on and my car beeps at me. I'm assuming that I have a wheel speed sensor going out. But when I check the codes there is nothing and the check engine light never turns on, so how do you tell which one to replace? Or is my problem something different? I drive a 1999.5 vr6 Jetta.
View 10 RepliesHow since the container is not see-through?
View 11 RepliesSo, according to my wife, there has been an indicator that the brake fluid is low, a couple of times, over the past several months.
Now, I know pretty much nothing about brake fluid, since it is usually simply changed at specified intervals. My mechanic might have not filled it up to level at the last service - there is no indication of leaks, especially since the warning is rather sporadic.
My wife went and got a bottle of "Prestone DOT 3 High Temperature Synthetic Brake Fluid." Will that do? Any precautions?
And yes, this is for my 2010 MT Golf TDI.
When I lock my doors my factory alarm no longer beeps to acknowledge it is set. If I hit the panic button the flashers flash, but there is no sound.
Previously I would have to open and shut the hatch on my car periodically to get the alarm to beep, but that no longer works. I checked the central locking fuses and the alarm fuses (two 15v's buried under covers above all the relays). Those are fine.
If it were just the beep no working after locking the doors I would guess the hatch switch, but there's no sound from the alarm on panic (and the horn works fine).
The brake light came on randomly yesterday, flashing foe about 5 seconds, then shut off. Hasn't come on since, but I looked at the brake fluid resovior and the level is about .5cm (.2inches) below the "min" marker.
Can I just open the resovior, pour in the fluid, recap it and go? I remember hearing from someone that if you open the resovior cap at any time, air rushes in and you must bleed the entire system before you can drive again
I have an 04 GLI 1.8T 6speed. It is very clear to me that the car has some hydraulic issues. I can't leave the clutch in for more than 10 seconds or it stays on the floor and I have to pull it back up with my foot. So what does this mean? (Besides the fact that I'm a double clutch king now) I couldn't wrap my head around why this was happening and thought at first it may have something to do with a hole in the Slave Cylinder that is allowing air into the lines. Neither confirmed nor denied yet.
My other problem I have is that my car is losing brake fluid at about a quart every 3 weeks. I'm no expert but that is alarmingly fast, and it is getting worse by the month. When driving I get the error message of STOP and my brake light flashes, which is how I know it is low. I can't locate the leak but I do see a drip coming from somewhere behind the drivers side front tire, relatively close to the firewall. I don't know if I have a broken brake fluid line that is dripping down, or if something else could be broken that is causing the leak.
Last Thursday Nov 22nd, I took my 2010 Corolla for a regular oil change service by an Toyota agent. The service representative recommended to have the brake fluid replace since it had already 39000 km since new. I agreed.
The same evening, I start hearing a strange high pitch noise from the front while braking light at low speed. It does not occur all the time. I did a search in this forum about the brake noise.
That strange high pitch noise could come from the ABS actuator when it activates or modulates at that light braking.
I did a visual check on the bleeding nipples of the brakes today. It seems that the two nipples for rear brake were untouched and this would mean they did not bleed the rear brakes and air could be trapped in the rear brake lines.
Will take the car back the Toyota service. As search from our forum, the cause for the abnormal modulating of the ABS actuator could be :
(a) a bad speed sensor or
(b) air trapped in the brake line.
Since it starts at the same day of replacing the brake fluid, the most likely cause is air trapped in the brake line.
my third brake light, hatch wiper and fluid stuff all don't work. can't really tell if defrost works either but considering the amount of damage they probably don't. there was a hole in one of the grommets leading into the hatch on my gti and they all got wet and damaged. It looks like I barely even have enough room to cut out the damage and be able to replace it with new wiring. is there any kind of product where I could just replace an entire section or no
View 1 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
View 2 RepliesMy "Check Brake Pad" sign lit up yesterday. I check the pads with out taking the wheels off around. I am still on OEM original rotors and brake pads. The car has 35,000 miles.
Both rears looks fine with about 3/16" left the fronts right side and left side has the lowest at 1/8". Do you think i can still use the rotor one more time before i replace them or should i replace them with the pads?
I have experienced a strange error 3 times now in the last few weeks. It appears that one or both of the headlights go out for a second or two; this if followed by a audible "beep" and a warning indication flashes over the center dash screen that states "check lights" or similar. A second or two later the front light(s) are back on. The warning is orange or yellow in color. My Phaeton has just over 37k miles.
View 6 RepliesJust thought I'd ask, I was at the dealer last week and while there asked them to take a look at my brakes because they were making a slight screeching sound but only when first applied when speed was slow.
They said it all looked good but that the sound I was hearing was from grooves that had been etched into the driver's side front rotor. I find it hard to believe that my rotor would have grooves in it after only 21k miles, considering I don't track it or drive it aggressively that would have caused that.
I was driving on the freeway when I hear a beep then the red triangle, brake, VSC, and check engine lights light up. It still ran well but whenever i step on the break a continuous beep comes on and the word "brake" comes on but disappears when I let go of the brake.
View 9 RepliesLast week my 2008 Prius started making a faint beep each time I let up on the brake after a stop when I remove my foot off the brake. It also will make this faint beep when I let up on the brake even if the engine is not on. It is faint, nothing as loud as the beeps for seat belts or backup. The Prius is not experiencing any warning lights or any other noticeable problem and is running great.
View 6 Replies