Golf V R32 :: Anti-Rattle Spring Damage After Replacement Of Brake Pads?
Oct 14, 2012
I took my R to a local mechanic to have my rotors turned and my brake pads replaced (RedStuff). A couple of days later, I noticed a loud noise coming from my front passenger wheel well when I was driving, and the pitch changed when I hit my brakes. It appears that the anti-rattle spring was not reinstalled properly because it has fallen in between my caliper and rotor, causing damage to the rotor and my aftermarket wheels. Since I'm not much of a DIYer, I wanted to get your opinion on the situation and how I should approach things with my mechanic. How hard is it to properly install the anti-rattle spring?
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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My 99 Passat 1.8T eats brake pads and rotors like crazy. After about six months I hear a rattle, which sounds like brake pads came unglued. After a month of rattling, the pads must shift into a new groove on the rotor, and pulse like crazy. I can handle that, but this time the parts store gave me pads without the wire coming out of the pad. I thought the wire was just a brake wear sensor, and I figured I didn't need it, but now my ABS light is on. If that is a wear sensor Can I loop the old wire and bypass the system? I like having ABS. Also, with the two piece caliper, the spring holding the two pieces together broke. Can I get a new spring? Or do I need a new caliper? I appears the brakes function with the damaged spring, but I'm guessing the pads will wear unevenly. Or maybe the abs light is because the pads are seated funny because the caliper isn't sitting right?
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Second time my Tiggy is going back - first time I was told to speed up to 50 or 60 MPH and slam on the brakes and that appeared to work for a while, but now, I feel like the neighbors are going to file a noise complaint on my brakes!
There was mention of a TSB - just wanting to see how to be able to get that number and if there was any other solution, minus the replacement of pads as they have plenty of meat on them still.
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I just changed brake pads front and rear. My light was on indicating need for such. After changing i figured light would reset and turn off. Not the case. How do i reset the light? Was there something i needed to do to sensor when pads changed?
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OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
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Looking for instructions on how to replace emergency brake pads on a 2003 F250 2-wheel drive Ford truck?
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I know on some cars and trucks you need a special tools to push the caliper back in. i just use a large c clamp to do the job. Question do i need any special tools to replace the front brakes pads?
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I replace the frond brake pads. Press the piston caliper using a c- clamp. When my brake job is done, start the engine, pump the brake now the yellow light come on.
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I'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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I have a ford f350 2014 that had some water damage, the clockspring suffered water damage so I replaced it along with the steering column module.
The clockspring was brand new from ford, already centered, I pulled out the plastic tab during install.
Cluster has SERVICE ADVANCETRAC error and IDS is shows fault with the steering angle sensor. (see picture)
Do these new sensors have to be reset and calibrated to work, or does this FAULT message on IDS indicate a wiring problem?
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I have a 1993 Regal Custom. The friction pads on the transverse spring had worn off. I replaced with the aftermarket isolator pads. These work well. The problem I am having is that after a few months they tend to shoot out. You will hear a large bang and then see the pad shoot out in the rear view mirror. This seems to happen when their is a load in the rear of the car. What can be done to prevent this.
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I'm at 30K miles and notice my front pads are nearing their end. Before someone says, "use search" I already did and didn't find anything. I know our front brakes are shared with the TTS so I figured I would start a thread for a central place regarding people's experiences. I'm quite impressed with the stock pads as I tracked the car and never got any fade all day. The squeal on the street is very occasional so I'm thinking VW put a more aggressive pad on the R in the first place. That being said, what have others found if they replaced their pads with something aftermarket? The car is my daily driver.
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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So my brake pads worn light came on recently on my 03 jetta...low and behold all 4 brake pads needed changing...funny though because upon buying pads with the sensor when I went to put new pads on the old ones didnt even have a sensor it was already cut at the harness and spliced together to keep the light off....so upon inspection one of the wires was black and the other copper....idk if one was supposed to be black or if its because its fried? Anyways i went as far up the wires as I could till they are harnessed in with the abs sensor wires...still one wire black....spliced together crimped and still the light comes and goes....I dont have access to the vcds or vagcom so can't turn it off that way..
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Today as I was adding pressure to my tires I noticed the front brake pads were wearing unevenly. Both outer pads wore the same. More "meat" on the inner section of pads than on the outer, evenly worn, just sort of slanted down as you move out towards the outer rim of the brake disk.
Is this normal? What would cause this? Should I have it looked at? I've never seen anything but even pad wear, perfectly parallel to the brake disk.
Edit for these pictures to clarify.....
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The front pads on the R shift from one side of the caliper to the other whenever I move from forward to reverse they make a loud "clack". I thought it might be an O.E. pad issue, but I've changed the pads out to EBC's, but still no bueno. The new pads fit snuggly into the calipers and seemed to have solved the problem at first, but about 5k km's in, they're making the same noise.
I have anti-rattle springs installed, but they're not working. Is there supposed to be a pair of shims between the caliper sliders and the pads grooves that the previous owner removed for some reason? I don't think so, because that car only had 25k km on it when I purchased it; but you never know.
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Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
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3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
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I've had a clinking sound at the front of my car when driving over sharp bumps like seams or cracks ever since about 6k miles. I only notice it with the windows down. I used to think that it was the coils on my Nuespeed sport springs hitting each other, but after I got coilovers and the noise didn't change I was sure that it wasn't the springs. When talking to my mechanic on the phone he suggested that I see if the problem goes away if I apply the brakes when driving over something that causes the noise, and sure enough the noise isn't there when braking.
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Here is the problem. When I reversed the car out of the driveway i noticed it would not reverse freely. It felt as though something was blocking the car (as though the handbrake was still on).. When i turn left and right going slowly it feels like the car is jerking and the brake pads are sticking to the rotors.. Its the same when i reverse but I only feel it when im going slowly and the sound gets louder when turning left or right...
I checked all my break pads and rotors.. Im thinking it could be something with the haldex system... Hope not.. My haldex fluid was changed at 80k and im at 88k now..
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