Golf V R32 :: Air Leaking Noise When Car Is On - Vacuum Port?
Mar 12, 2013
I noticed this on my A3... This weekend I was working on the car and heard air leaking somewhere when the car was on. I pinpoint the leak on the upper left side of the engine where to my guess is a vacuum port. This hose leads to the brake booster. Apparently it's a plastic hose and it had split open near the port. I cut out a section of it and used some coolant hose I had laying around from my MKIV gti. Just thought I let you 3.2's know in case you want to check it out.
What is the function of this? is it to provide vacuum to the brakes? I pulled the hose while the engine was running and it wanted to die just to see if it would cause any issues. Also I may add that before this I've had some engine stuttering at idle where the rpm needle would fluctuate from like 600 rpm to 500 rpm and back up at times and that after replacing that bad section of hose it seems to have corrected that issue as well. I know there have been some stuttering issues around here and have heard that replacing the battery has worked at times.
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Since the 2150A was computer controlled it has no ported distributor vacuum advance port, correct?
If you have a distributor with vacuum advance and a 2150A carb, where do you connect the advance to if not the carb?
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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I have a 2006 F-250 6.0 diesel. The high side service port schrader valve is leaking. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I planned on evac-ing the system, replace the cores and refill until i came across this valve remove/replacement tool from MasterCool. The only problem i have is not knowing whether or not this tool fits the valve cores I have. I see already that the high side is quite a large core. I cant even find a core removal tool at local auto parts stores to fit. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides?
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So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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Plugging a multiple USB port into the single USB port? Does it work? For example a plugging a USB drive and an IPod?
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I have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
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When I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
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Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
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The Bentley shows the A/C recharge port behind the passenger headlight but I couldn't find it there. I did find a port by the passenger side strut tower. Is that the correct port?
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I have a friend who Just picked up a 2001 GTI 1.8T (auto) and it has a Check Engine Light, but will not communicate with the scan tool. It does have an aftermarket radio, and I did unplug it for giggles, but still no comunication. the K line has 8V on it now.
Is there something IM missing here thats a common problem?
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I bought this today. It has to be plugged into the 12v port in order to work; it has no battery in it. BUT when I plug it into the 12v ports (i tried both), this annoying squealing noise comes from the speakers. How can I get rid of this noise completely?
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This is what my ticket reads, vehicle operating at manufacture standards. Tech road tested vehicle at highway speeds. Tech compared vehicle to demo vehicle. Demo vehicle was road tested at highway speeds. Both vehicles have exact same wind noise. I have also had water leak into the car from same area, for this they said the door seal is deformed & ordered a new one. The carpet in the back where the spare is located is also separating from the material it is glued to.
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So I just bottomed out really hard and I pulled over to a gas station to check out my car to see if I busted anything. I noticed on the way to the gas station that for the first two times I hit the brakes hard there was a clunking noise but now it went away. Onto the leaking part though, there are two hoses that run just along the inside of the frame on the passenger side just behind the wheel and one of the lines is leaking a lot of water. What these lines run to/from? I'm going to get the car on the lift tomorrow.
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I'm going to finally go through all the old rubber cloth shielded vacuum hoses and going to replace them with Samco silicone but not sure if I should use 3 or 4mm hose?
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I need to put a check valve into the vacuum line that runs to the gas tank. I know that this line is somewhere in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment, but there's so many lines there that I find myself confused when I look at it.
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What are some common mk4 r32 vacuum leaks. And yes I did search. Im checking my car for any leaks that vagcom would potentially not detect.
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[URL] .... been home for 2 hrs now, and it still kicks in.
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I suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
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Today I was checking up on the engine and noticed a weird "sucking" noise coming next to the air filter box.
I've researched a bit and it seems like I might have a vacuum leak? I have attached a video on the noise, I recorded on the phone so you might need to turn up the volume a bit higher to hear the noise (vertical recording, the noise starts at about 38 secs)...
[URL] ....
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I have a Passat 1.8t b5.5 with 150hp
Some months ago I chipped it and it drives very good and I also changed the diverter valve to a 710N.
But now it is fast, but sometimes it just feels like it doesn't hold boost as it should. and I hear a very loud psss sound just like a BOV when I shift. Could it be the 710N which has been broken? Or is it a vacuum line to the DV that has a leak?
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