Golf V R32 :: Acceleration Seems Hesitant When Floor From A Standstill
Oct 19, 2009
I got a VW Certified R32 back in August and I'm loving every minute of it! I just have two little issues. When I floor it from a standstill, the acceleration seems hesitant almost as if something is holding back the power until I hit about 3500 RPM there's a slight break (as if it were shifting but its in 1st the whole time) and then there's a lot more power available.
Also, when ever I'm shifting there is a slight delay between when I press the paddle or push the shifter. I push the '+' paddle wait half a second or so, and then it starts the shift sequence. Only seems to happen when I try to shift between 2k and 4.5k RPM (4.5k+, the second I hit the paddle it starts shifting). Is this normal? Is this because of the AWD(never had an AWD car before)? Should I complain to the dealer?
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I just recently purchased an 05 Touareg V6 and I am a little concerned regarding the acceleration I am getting like after stopping at a light or trying to get on the highway. It seems that it takes this vehicle about 5-10 seconds to realize that it needs to get moving. However, after it does realize what it needs to do, the acceleration is fine. I was told different things such as it could be the turbo system and one thing I find very hard to believe that this is a characteristic of all VW's. I like my VW and don't want to get rid of it but would prefer better acceleration
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The car had been idling a little rough lately and I'd noticed a drop in MPG. After trying a few easy fixes I finally replaced the O2 sensor a few weeks ago. The idle has leveled out but ever since then I've been getting periodic hesitant-to-non-existent acceleration. Sometimes it works just fine (better than it's been in years, actually) but then sometime it will take forever to accelerate from a stop.
I'll give it some gas and it will just roll forward at barely more than an idle for half-a-block until something kicks in and it levels out around 30mph. This doesn't happen consistently though and I can't see much of a pattern in when it happens or why. It seems to work a little if I ease into the gas very gently, and it is worse when I try to gun it. I was worried it might be the fuel injectors or the ignition coils.
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I was caught up in the middle of the haboob (major dust storm) in Phoenix this summer. I drove through it in my 2008 BMW X3 (40K miles) for about 45 minutes. Ever since, the engine has been idling rough and hesitant on acceleration. I had replaced the air filter which was full of fine dust particles and thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed the internal of the filter housing. I also used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner on a couple of tanks. The condition has improved a bit but it is still not back to how it was before.
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Does your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
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Bought lucas oil additive, but have not used it yet. Waiting to burn some more oil and a lower reading on the dipstick before adding the quart of lucas.
Or should I just oil change with some mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40 work?
Engines around 225k miles on it.
Ones moving I notice no smoke at all. Worn out rings? Valve seals or guides?
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So my R32 just recently started to stall at any stand still longer than 1-2 mins with the A/C on. Every thing works perfectly fine as avertised as long as the engine has not warmed up yet, I am driving at a cruising speed, or the A/C is not turned on. I'm thinking the issue maybe be heat related causing the crank position sensor to malfunction. Is there anyway to check the cps with Vagcom?
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph.
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Ok have and 2001 excursion v10 auto the make good heat but when you start to like climb a hill it alternates between the floor and defrost then when you knoll the hill it goes back to the vent heat. I guessing a vacuum problem.
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So for reason irrelevant, at about 500 miles on the odometer, I drove the Prius quite hard the past couple of days. In retrospect, a poor decision as I am now all kinds of concerned as to what kind of damage I may have done. I know break-in is said to be 600 miles so I was below that. I'll describe my 'hard' driving as heavy acceleration, often pedal to the floor, a few hard stops and umm excessive speed (we'll leave that up to interpretation). So I'm just stressing about it now.
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My Passat does not seem to be a morning person... For some time now, I've had this issues. It happens regardless of weather, but it seems that whenever I park the passat overnight, when I start it up in the morning it acts funny. The car is VERY hesitant to get out of first or second gear (Automatic, btw), but usually by the 2nd shift, the car is back to normal. I usually just tiptronic the first two gears and then its fine, but the weird thing is, something makes a horrid noise while this goes on. Around 3,000-4,000k RPMs, there is some rattle/grind noise.
Along with the hesitation, the noise leaves as well. This problem has been ongoing for some time, and I just cant for the life of me figure out why? It doesn't seem to happen if the car sits around all day even for 10 hours. It honestly seems like the passat "goes to sleep" and then when I "wake it up" in the morning, it doesn't want to shift. I've had warm days, cool days, humid, dry, raining...doesn't seem to be related to the climate.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
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My 2007 Lexus ES350 is sometimes hesitant in the morning when gaining speed or may be warming up. Did not see this problem coming back from work. What to do next? There was some oily fluid leaking recently, is the transmission fluid supposed to be reddish?
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My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
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My two back windows would go down but not up. My passenger side was hesitant. My drivers side was fine. I purchased a new master switch for the drivers side. When I tested it, the three other windows worked fine, but the drivers side (front) would do nothing. So I ordered a replacement and plugged it in. The same thing. The three other windows work fine (up and down) but the drivers front does nothing. When I put the original master switch back in, the drivers front works, but the back windows go down but not up and the passenger front is hesitant.
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
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My 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
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So, I got stuck in standstill traffic for about an hour due to bad weather and wreck up ahead, and barely inching along the highway, I was surprised how fast the battery was dropping and having to turn on the engine to recharge it, killing the MPG; normal drive home I get around 50 MPG, it dropped to 38 due to all the idling. In such situations, just place the Prius in "Park" in order to shut down the electric motor (I'm assuming that's what park does) so it doesn't idle to conserve power? Would probably be an annoying way to drive regularly, but if you know you're gonna get stuck for awhile, I may try it next time...
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I've been hearing a slight clunk when accelerating from a stop, a very faint split second clunk between in 1st year.
Last week, I pointed the noise to a technician at my dealer and he diagnosed it as the cam adjuster lurching backward as the car moves forward.
He replaced the cam adjuster and the gasket set (058-109-088-E, 058-198-217, and 058-198-025-A). When I got the car back, it seemed like he had fixed the problem. However a week later, the noise is back.
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I have a 2012 Ford Focus with automatic transmission with about 22k miles on it. No check engine lights on. When accelerating from standstill it always stutters a little as if it's not really 'catching on' properly (just in "first gear" it seems). It doesn't do it once you're beyond 5 - 10 mph and it doesn't do it either when for instance stepping on the gas pedal while driving. Only from standstill. It also doesn't seem to go away when the car has been driven for a little while. It's always there. What could be causing this?
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