1) no cool air at all from AC
2) low pressure side shows 0 even after adding some refrigerant
3) ac compressor engages. I can hear a slight load on the motor when I push the ac button
4) when pressing the ac button the fans don't automatically come on. They should come on right
I've read that this is a somewhat common problem but can't find the part number to what I need. My heat stopped working and won't change blowing any temp only blows slightly chilled air. I found that its suppose to be a part in the dash that controls this thru the climatronic head unit some lever that isn't getting pushed over correctly dew to a worn out part. What part I need to get my heat back working.
View 4 RepliesSo i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
View 2 RepliesThis is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
View 2 RepliesI have an '08 350 with less than 82K miles. My problem is the AC. The vents on the passenger side blow out cool air and all the vents on the driver's side blow out hot air. Even the vents in the backseat, the left one blows hot air and the right one blows cool (my son informed me of this as I hadn't even checked). As you can imagine it's very uncomfortable driving around in this CA heat every day, especially since the driver side vent in the center cannot be completely closed. What could cause this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Buick Century with about 48,000 miles on it..the A/C blows very cool but not cold,it should be colder..i also have a 2003 century that blows icy cold.. I hooked up a cheap gauge to the low side service port on both vehicles and got about the same reading. Other then being slightly low on refrigerant is their anything else that would cause the A/C to blow cool air rather then icy cold? The compressors seem to kick on the same on both vehicles. I really don't want to add refrigerant if it's not low...
View 4 RepliesI have an '02 Durango, and the AC only blows cool air when going down the road at 25+ mph. I thought I'd try putting some refrigerant in, but when I hooked up the gauge on the can it buried the needle, so it's over 100 psi on the low side, and the pressure was high enough that no refrigerant would flow in. Up where the lines attach to the expansion valve, when idling the in line is HOT - like too hot to keep your hand on and the out line is about air temp. The guy at the parts store thought the expansion valve was bad. As stated, AC works okay (but not excellently) while going down the road.
View 6 RepliesMy 94 is on the mend , since I got it a few months ago. The air conditioner blows cool , just not cold . It's still a R12 system, and I got the fittings/R134a/oil charge/and mineral spirits to do the change over, but hesitated when I found someone locally had a few cans of R12 for sale . My thought is to buy 1 can , and see if a shot would make the difference before going through the procedure to flush the 12 out and go with the 134a .
My biggest problem is lack of a gauge set , but a guy from CraigsList here says he walk me through the change over for 60 , and betting he'd have the hoses for a 12 system to hit that if that's how I decide to try first. I just wonder why , since I got it , the "cool" it does blow hasn't changed so I am betting it isn't leaking , but the jackleg I got it from was one that IMHO wouldn't know how to open the hood , or what to leave alone, I am just at that point of impasse, as to which way to go ...
I took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...
My 2007 Prius air conditioner blows mainly warm rather than cool air. I took it in for repairs and they replaced the high pressure hose but it is still not cooling the car. The dealer has had the car for 2 weeks trying to determine what the problem is. They tell me it should be blowing 42 degrees but is only blowing 62 degrees. They think that it might be the invertor that cost $1,000.
View 1 RepliesMy air conditioner blows cool air (not cold) when I am driving, and when I am stopped, it is warm air. I had to replace the sensor last year. Could it be that again, or something else? Chevy Tahoe 2003 ..
View 2 RepliesSo my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
View 6 RepliesSo basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
This one has me stumped, and I can't find a rational explanation on the net but it appears to be a known problem. I have a friend with an '06 Nissan Pathfinder that has climate control with dual zones (front and rear) that fails to blow hot (in front) when the vehicle is stationary and the rear heater is on. I used to wrench for a living so I've eliminated the obvious. The front blows hot air when the vehicle is in motion and also when stationary and the rear climate controls are off. So clearly it would seem to me that the issue probably lies in the switching of ventilation ducts from hot to cold. I'm not familiar enough with the system to proffer a solution though. The way I see it it's probably a sensor at best, an issue with the climate control unit itself at worst, or some sort of bizarre mechanical malfunction involving the vents closing when they should be passing air from across the heater core to the entire interior.
I haven't spent much time diagnosing the issue mainly because I don't do it for a living anymore. Hot air comes out of the front when the car is warm, stationary, and the rear blower motor is off. My friend who isn't very technical and speaks English as a second language tells me that when the rear heat is on it blows cold in the front while the vehicle is stationary (in Park or perhaps just when stopped for an extended period i.e. at a traffic light).
The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 7 RepliesMy R has 133,000 miles and is overheating at speed. It will cool down at idle. Both fans are working. The water pump was replaced at 105,000 and I replaced both fans at 95,000 miles. The dash temp gauge goes almost to the red, but not all the way. It gets hot enough to shut off the A/C compressor.
Based on the collective wisdom of this forum, does this is a failing water pump, or a partially opening thermostat? This past winter it seemed to take longer for it to get warm. I'm leaning to thermostat.
I did the resistor mod on my fans awhile ago, but just the low speed does not cool my engine sufficiently. I seem to be the only one who still has issues with the car getting hot still. The engine gets hotter and hotter the more it's driven constantly but once I slow down, the fans catch up and the engine cools down significantly. Why is my car still getting hot when constantly moving and the. Functioning fine once at lower speeds?
View 12 RepliesHow many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
View 2 RepliesOn start up, on the hot day, A/C takes 4-5 minutes of driving before starting to cool. Not much cold air coming out once it get's going to.... IF Climatronic is switched OFF, then as you drive you can feel hot air coming out from vents and actually fogging up windscreen on the rainy day.
View 8 Replies