Golf V R32 :: A/C Malfunction - Fan Won't Working
Jan 23, 2014
Couple days ago I drove to work, everything worked fine but fired up everything to drive home and fan wouldn't blow anything on any of the settings. Checked all the fuses and didn't find anything burnt out. Drove home last night and it kicked on as soon as I started the car. I've read up on the resistor that can go bad but it seems that would result in a blown fuse. Can't seem to find anything on the fan kicking on and off whenever it feels like it?
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This morning when I started up my car the coolant light flashed red, an audible warning chime sounded and the MFI read that I need to check the manual. Because the light was flashing, the manual says there is an engine coolant system malfunction and I need to take it to the dealer. The car was completely cold at the start, so I turned it off, then back on and there was no warning. I drove to work and the temperature gauge read right where it should be the whole way. This afternoon, when I started it up to go home the same thing happened. By the way, the car has only 4800 miles on it.
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I've got a 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen and the blower fan stopped working (again).
About 3 months ago it stopped working on the 1-3 setting and 4 worked fine. So I searched these forums and found the resistor pack was blown. Replaced it with the ~$30 official VW part and it worked fine until last week.
Now all settings are not working. I ohm'd out the resistor pack and they appear to be fine. I put a current limited 12v supply on the fan and it spun up without a problem. I checked the voltage coming from the car to the fan connector and it was at 0v.
From reading the forums this tends to point to a faulty switch. If it is a fault switch then why does the AC light turn on when I switch from 0 to 1?
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So I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
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I recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)
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11 months and 3 weeks ago a mechanic I trust replaced my a/c. Two weeks later I rear-ended another car.
There was minor cosmetic damage but it ran as before. A week after that began the record setting Texas summer heat wave and my car got so hot the mirror gauge registered 125 in a fast food line. This is the only time it got that hot. Once we got moving everything seemed fine.
A couple of days later the a/c ran for about 10 minutes then stopped. Slowly the time the unit cooled decreased until it stopped working. I took the car back to the mechanic. He stated the pressure measured up to 100 psi and the temperature was above the rating for the a/c system.
He fixed a short in the radiator/engine fan, the temperature problem never returned and the pressures were high but my a/c worked.
At first the a/c seemed to work fine but then it began to work only sometimes. When it did work it would sometimes work in "hybrid" mode which you Saturn owners recognize as cooling at the reduced level that saves gas in stop and go traffic -- or not at all as we say in TX.
I took it back. The mechanic now explained the I'd voided the warranty because the short in the radiator fan allowed the car and a/c system to get too hot. The high heat had burned some sort of internal valve in the compressor.
The valve is unreliable. The performance of the a/c is mainly temperature dependent. The hotter the day the less likely the a/c will produce enough of a pressure difference to open this valve. Warm days the system will probably cool. Hot days it will probably not.
Being a CarTalk listener and an former nerd I thought of and tried a way to magnify the pressure difference using rpm. It works but the hotter the day the higher and longer I have to rev the engine. Now I'm burning oil for the fist time ever. Did I cripple my air conditioner or does my trusted mechanic learn a little to little when he learned to repair my hybrid a/c system?
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My Excursion is stuck in 2wd. It worked one morning, then it didn't that same afternoon. I've checked all fuses that resemble a related fuse in the fuse box.
I've replaced the dash switch, Transfer case shift motor and ESOF/GEM module behind the glove box. I've swapped around the relays under the hood on the drivers side fender well.
I ran a hot & ground to the 2-wire plug on the x-fer case shift motor to have it move the ex back into 2wd (replacing the shift motor required me to manually put it in 4hi with a wrench).
At this point, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue? Where to go next?
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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2001 MB E320. While traveling at the posted speed, 75mph the accelerator quits working. The speed control will still work and the accelerator will work after some play and time. When I stop the car and turn off the ignition and then start the car again the accelerator works fine. This has happened only twice but I'm afraid it will continue and happen more often. I traced the accelerator cable to a small box on the left side pf the engine.
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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My sons 97 has a lot of electric probs, one of which is the cig lighter quit working recently. I checked the fuses (under hood and on dash), and wiring to both plug-ins.
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I've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
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My wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
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Me and my fiancee have a 2013 Camry SE and we've been having issues with our fuel gauge... It randomly will just stop working... First time it happened she just got in the car from work and it was at empty. When she got to work it was at half a tank... It took about 20-25 minutes of driving for it to slowly reach back to half a tank.... What could/would cause this malfunction?? And then today on her way to work it did the same thing..
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Got a 2005 F350 with 250,000 miles with "electrical" problems. First thing I did was change batteries, clean body grounds and check most fitting and connections. Looked good at KOEO. Tried to crank and it struggled and fired for about 2 seconds. The IPR % was going nuts. Took off FICM found one bent pin that I don't know what it controls. It is where the screwdriver tip is.
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I just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
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I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. I purchased the van used back in February with 34,000 miles on it. About a week after I bought it, the van started having odd electrical problems. My radio controls on the wheel would stop working, my rear wiper would start running even though it is in the off position. My power sliding doors would catch and close at the half way point on both sides at the same time. It is little odd ball stuff, but I am worried that the "brain" is not working properly. I have taken it to the dealer multiple times and of course they can't find the problem. They say to bring it back if it keeps happening, which I do, but every time they say it is fine and send me on my merry little way.
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