Today my a/c stopped working, it just blow normal temperature air not cooling, never had a bad experience with it before, I even use it not on the lowest set up, always on 19 Celsius. It was working fine when i arrived at work, 10 minutes later My boss told me to pick something up and when I turned the a/c on it Never worked.... Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesHave a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
I went out and checked my engine oil level when the engine was cold and the oil level was near the bottom of the hash marks. Drove the gti for around 15 min and fully warmed the engine and waited five minutes and rechecked the oil level. to my surprise the oil level was actually higher! it was now at the top of the hash marks. if I added oil when the engine was cold I would've over filled my engine. I always thought it was the other way around with a cold engine all the oil would have drained back to the oil pan and should read higher when cold. Why the oil level reads higher when the engine is at normal operating temperature?
View 5 Replies I have never seen any of my other cars do this and I just want to see if this is normal. It happens like clockwork every time I get in the car with a cold engine. I let the car sit while the RPMs are high and as soon as the tach drops I start to drive the car softly. The engine temp gauge reaches normal operating temp in a normal amount of time, it does not just jump to the middle. But after about 1 minute it just starts falling quite quickly, as you can see in the video. It's very predictable - happens every time I drive it so it was easy to catch on video. I don't notice any difference in engine performance. Is this normal for a VW GTI or is something wacky going on?
You can skip to 19-20 seconds in the video to see the needle drop.
My friend has 2008 ES350. His car has problem in Air Conditioning System. Only sometimes not always it pushes normal air, not cooled enough as it should be. He took it to an AC service shop they checked the AC gas it is normal no leaking. They told him there is a faulty sensor connected to the compressor.
View 8 RepliesIt's been quite a while since I was here - which shows that my Passat has been pretty reliable recently. But now I have a problem. WHen I was driving home about a week ago, I saw the temperature suddenly drop all the way to the stop. I put on the heater, and the air continued to come out at regular temperature, so the problem was in the reading/display. I have a Scangauge, which I connected, and it showed the correct temperature (around 190), confirming a problem with the display.
I contacted the dealer, who first insisted that it must be the thermostat (then why do I get a reading of 190 with the Scan Gauge and why is the heater still hot). When I disagreed, they said it must be the sensor. When I pointed out that the Scan Gauge correctly shows the rise in temperature for cold and then show the temperature maintained at between about 185 and 195) , then they said it must be the gauge, which requires a new instrument cluster.
I went to a another service place I've used (not a dealer) and they insist that it must be the sensor, based on past experience. For this to be true, the engine must have different temperature sensors for the instrument cluster display than it does for the computer.
I have a 2013 Prius 4. I'm not sure if there is a problem or not but the heater just seems to blow the same temperature of air no matter how high I set the temperature. The air feels lukewarm. I was driving 60 miles yesterday with the temperature set at 76. I had on a long sleeve shirt and polar fleece jacket and it never got to where I was really warm. Outside temp was about 50.
View 10 RepliesPicked up a 2001 Excursion a few weeks ago. Trying to sort out some of its issues. The rear HVAC seems to only blow one temperature... Luke warm. Front A/C and heat work fine. I checked the temp blend actuator and it seems to work fine. The rear expansion valve gets cold and there is condensation that drips from the rear. What else I can check?
View 14 RepliesGot a 2002 Grand Voyager (as we name it in Europe), 3,3 AWD, with AC/Heating problems.
No matter the temperature setting, from 15C to 29, it will blow with same very hot air. AC working when setting the temp to LO.
Going from LO to 15 deg C, you'll hear a "clunk", as if a door closes, and the warm air will start to flow through the vents.
Tried all the calibration possibilities known to me (ON+Recirc), and it will end with no faults, but to no good effect on the problem.
What the "ON+AC" mode does? Been in that mode - but do not know what it does, or if I'm supposed to do anything.
I haven't got a clue, other than the "thump" I hear when, possibly, the blend door closes, might be a problem, since I would expect the blend to be more gradually invoked.
My 2005 ranger will blow hot air with the cab temperature control is on cold or hot. The A/C works only when it is on Max AC. What the problem may be.
View 3 RepliesThis video is about the Toyota Prius Gen 3 Temperature Indicators and cooling system overheating. I thought the prius did not have temperature indicators but found out it did, so this video is about how to know if your toyota prius is overheating and understand the basics of its cooling system.
View 2 Replies2nd time happening to me: I started my car, backed up and drove few hundred feet before stopping at a traffic light.
While stopping there, I noticed the engine cooling fan was running at max and the temperature was going rapidly up (in less than 10sec the gauge almost hit the red line).
While the gauge was going up I shifted the gear stick to P and the gauge dropped to normal in less than 5sec.
I shifted back to D and the car drove normally ever since.
The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
I currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
Sometimes, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't start up when I turn it off. For example, let's say on my way home I stop off in a supermarket to pick up some stuff. I'll come back out 20 minutes or so later, only to find out my car isn't starting. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank, shake and then immediately die on me [I'm under the impression the engine isn't even starting at this point because tapping the gas does nothing]. Again, this is a problem that is only happening sometimes. I can do the same routine tomorrow and it'll start up flawlessly.
1) This is only an intermittent problem. The problem doesn't seem to be occurring more frequently, but when it does happen, the engine is harder to start. For example, the first time this happened to me, I got it started after one or two tries. After my latest episode, it took me 11 tries to get it running!
2) After the engine does finally start, the engine will run really rough and shake a lot until I tap the gas a few times (which is leading me to believe this is some sort of fuel related problem [sometimes, the engine will start on one try, but will run rough until I tap the gas a few times]).
3) When the car is cold, it starts up flawlessly every time without fail.
4) The car runs mint! No hesitation or otherwise stalling, etc.
What I've done so far to try to remedy the problem:
1) Changed spark plugs
2) Fuel line cleaning/flush
During the summer, my Celica runs just fine. Now, the temps are as low as the single digits outside (Fahrenheit). While I'm out driving, it can easily take 30 mile or more miles of driving before the engine finally warms up to the normal operating temperature, according to the dash gauge.
My mechanic is quoting me $135 or so to replace the thermostat. I haven't heard of thermostats getting stuck open and resulting in "under" heating conditions too often though.
Any thoughts on what the likely cause of this cold engine condition is? My gas mileage has also taken a good sized hit. Lost 5 mpg or so.
Can I just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for the winter and call it good?
Just wondering if this is anything to be concerned about. I have a 2006 Saturn Vue. It has just over 80,000 miles on it. The temperature gauge has always registered just below the "second mark" once the car is warm. As of last week, the gauge is now registering slightly past the "second mark." So, higher. It is no where near the "red" zone, and nothing seems to be wrong, but it has me concerned. I took it in for service and they said "it is still well within the normal range, don't worry about it." But I think something made the gauge go higher, and I am concerned about a problem lurking. Am I being a Nervous Nellie? I love my Vue and want to take good care of it.
View 4 RepliesThe temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
View 4 RepliesWhen I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
1996 Miata. The hood of my car is so hot that you could fry an egg on it. The hood is so hot that you can not put your hand on it. The heat actually comes through and can be felt on the legs of the person in the passenger seat. The temperature gauge reads normal. This began recently. I took it to the Mazda dealer who said it was normal?
View 2 Replies