Golf V R32 :: 2009 - Gauges Are Hard To Read During The Day
Feb 18, 2016
I own a 2009 smart car with 256k miles on it (it's used primarily for work) and was having it serviced at a local shop here in Tulsa (not the dealership). I had to leave the car for some minor repairs and the owner of the shop gave me the keys to an R32 he was about to list for sale. Well, I fell in love with the car. I mulled over it for about a month but ultimately I broke down and bought it.
One question I'd like to pose. I notice the gauges are hard to read during the day, particularly the temp and fuel gauges. I'm thinking the gauges are supposed to be backlit during the day, but I can't seem to confirm that anywhere on the internet. Are the gauges supposed to be backlit during the day as they are at night?
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I am new to this car. It seems to be scraping on the way out-therefore distorting an accurate read. Best way?
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The digital display in the cluster, sometimes it works perfectly fine and its clearly legible and bright as day. Most other time however, the lighting or whatever in it gets really dim and the text gets really dark and hard to read. I usually have to cup my hands over the cluster to get it really dark and then i can see what it says. Like i said though, sometimes it could be broad daylight and its really bright and easy to see, but most of the time its not.
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This located near the sunroof controls. It is very hard to read during the day.
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I have a Honda Accord 2009 sedan. The CD player reads audio CDs well; however, it does not read MP3 CDs that I burned using iTunes. I have tried multiple CDs but had no success. What should I do? Should I take it to dealer? I am just worried that they are gonna charge me for diagnosis.
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Is it possible on my new 2012 to change the mileage read out to mpg instead of L/100km?
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2010 f150 with 5.4 catalytic converter. Engine light has been going on and off for the past couple of months. Had the code read and its says bank one catalytic converter. Ford dealer said to replace the 02 sensors. Had that done but light still comes on and off with same code. Could there be something wrong with the sensor or should I just have the CC replaced also. I just don't understand why it would come on for a few days and then not come on for a few days if its the CC?
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I just got my new 2009 F150 XL yesterday and after 100 miles today the message center has started to read Check Fuel, Fill Inlet.
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The past week, the CEL of my Jetta 2000 was on, and a couple of days after, was off. But yesterday was relit. I take my car to Auto Zone to check codes with scanner, but was impossible read any code, the lector can't connect with computer. I thought in fuses, but the fuses are fine.
Searching on google, i found that the reason could be the aftermarket radio, but I am not sure about that, the connections are seen aparently fine. I Read in one thread that disconnecting the aftermarket radio harness is enough to can read codes from computer.
I read also that the scanner could be incompatible with VW cars, but I don't think that, because AutoZone should have a scanner compatible with most of the common cars models.
The fact is that I don't want to get in troubles with the harness of radio, I don't have tools like multimeter neither knowledge about electrical systems, i just want to know if disconnecting the radio harness is enough in order to read codes. (in case of the problem be on the K-line wire).
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The P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
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Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
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I recently bought my 2010 gti used with 62k miles on it about 3weeks ago. The car had an carbonio intake stage 1 and a stage 1 tune from Apr when I had bought it. On the test drive and for the first two weeks I had it I did not have any problems. A few days ago on a cold start my car threw an MIL and it was flashing. When I got to school I plugged it into the obd2 scanner. Code read P0303: misfire cylinder 3 detected.
My teacher and I went over possibilities of the misfire. Coil pack, plugs , injector, valve float( even tho this should not occur at 1300rpm cold start) we also thought that maybe because the car is direct injection the valve was not closing all the way due to carbon build up on the top of my valves which in this case I'm glad I don't have an interference head. I moved around the coil packs. What is the cause of this? I'm only misfiring at start and when the engine isn't warms up to operating temp.
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Bought a Mk4 1.8T gti last year had only about 75,000 on it and drove it for about 10,000 miles. The check engine light went on about 2 months ago and the code read 3rd gear incorrect ratio. It still rode fine until about a week ago when it started slipping. Brought it to the local transmission guys in my town and got a quote at about $3,000-$3,500 to have the transmission rebuilt. The transmission is a tiptronic automatic 6-speed.
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So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
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So I bought my R32 at the end of this past March and the car currently has 10700 miles on it. over the last month I have noticed a slight flickering in the center screen between the gauges. its at random times of day, with random temperatures out side and random driving conditions. Now, starting about three days ago after driving in the car for about twenty minutes the screen will start to flicker a bit, and the middle climate adjustment knob shuts off. The two outter knobs are still lit up and so are the climate displays, but if you try to adjust the speed of the air flow, nothing happens until the car is restarted, and again only lasts for about twenty minutes before proceeding to shut off.
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This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
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Picked up a GTI Autobahn yesterday. Was pretty hyped that my sales rep was able to get me the last car in my configuration in all of California. It had to be driven 150 miles to my dealer though so there were more miles on the odometer than I would have liked but I got such a good deal that I let it be. Drove home and all was fine. Went out later that night and while driving home it all started.
Car was just cruising at regular freeway speeds (65 - 70) and suddenly all the gauges go out and error lights galore. Strange part is the car is still working otherwise at this point. We were able to exit and park it safely. Here's a video of exactly what we were seeing: [URL] ....
After parking and shutting off the car we try to start it back up. It turns over fine but a second later it kills itself - much like it would if you shut the car off manually. Warning lights galore again and eventually an error about the braking system shows on the display. Here's a video on this part: [URL] ....
Gas tank is full. Car was not being driven hard whatsoever. And even if it was it shouldn't do this right?
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I am looking into buy a 2009 vw touareg 2.5 tdi, i heard that it has a smoking problem and it's hard to start, the turbo was changed and it still smoked. The pulled the head thinking that the block was worn however the problem was diagnosed to be bad valve stem and guides. Where online i get these to buy, ecstunning doesn't seem to have it.
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Basically when I have it cranked on high (level 4) it feels like its blowing on level 2. some times when I start the car it doesn't even turn on. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. Is it wiring or could it be AC Blower fan or something else.
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My 2009 CTS Caddy with a 3.6L, 156,612K miles, AWD has been steering hard for a few weeks. Its very difficult to to steer at low speeds, like parking. At highway speeds its ok. Its not making any noise and the fluid level is where it should be. It is hard to steer at low speeds if the cars is hot and when its cold after just starting car. My question is, how to I determine if its the pump or rack or something connected with the speed sensative steering without going to the dealer.
I was at the dealer for routine maintenance Friday and he didn't have time to look at it but said a rack and a pump, he didn't even mention if there could be something wrong with the speed sensitive doohickey. Which leads to my second question, can my normal mechanic, who I believe to be quite capable, be trusted to replace the pump or rack or is this a job that the dealer would be more suited doing. If can bring it to my mechanic I can always buy the parts myself and he can install it. Thats why I would like to figure out exactly which part is bad before I go to him.
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[URL] .... . I don't know what this noise could be. I have a 2009 pontiac g8 gt. This noise happens from braking lightly but not hard. Sometimes also when driving. Also does not happen all the time mostly when warmed up
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