Golf V R32 :: 2008 Won't Start / Does Not Turn Over - Fault Code U0100
Jun 17, 2015
Fault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag. I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof dont work even in AUX power
Fuel pump does not prime
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
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Fault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag.
I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof don't work even in AUX power. Fuel pump does not prime
I searched the forums and tried numerous advice, but to no avail.
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
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After running to operating temp, if the car is turned off then restarted (like you would at a gas station, which is where I notice this) the engine will turn and turn and turn but not fire. I have noticed that stomping on the acceleration will cough it into life during this procedure. This doesn't happen every time and I have recently run high octane gas during a long distance trip.
106K miles...
Recent p0441 fault codes and gas cap warning light...
No other problems or codes...
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I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
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My 2004 gen II died on the road last week. I wanted to have information, on what is apparently a rare problem.
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Driving home today, my prius threw the triangle and all the other warning lights. Scanned with my scan gauge got code u0100. I was only a mile from home so attempted to drive it. Car made it 1/4 mile and then died. I had it towed to the house and checked the grounding wires going to the engine and transaxle. The Tranaxle grounding wire was loose so i pushed it together tightly. The car now runs on main battery only, the ICE does not fire up. All warning lights are still present. Nav screen says problem. 12v is good.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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Just went out to start the truck (2006 4.2L) and no start...turns over but isn't firing.
I checked codes and got a P1299. She was stone cold and ran perfectly last night - never overheated.
I suspect ground or other wiring...where should I start?
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I have 2008 mazda B2300 pickup with P1633 fault code. Is this a mazda code (battery overcharge) or ford code (KAM voltage low) since it's a re-badged ranger? Alternator output measured at battery is 14.4 vdc.
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I have a 00 1.8t that won't start...
It gives me P1517 fault code and is the only code I'm getting. Replaced starter. I've looked all over and find very little information about this. Some place I read about said relay 377 is the main electrical relay but I can't find where it is.
Is there a missing relay next to 370?
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I got an error code today and I was going to ask you who know . What is this? What should I change to solve the problem and where in the engine is the error ? Is it dangerous to drive with this error?
My car is a Golf IV R32 - 2003.
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Had the cams installed about a month ago, and haven't had a CEL on in the car since I got it.. has been 100% trouble free.
Drove about 30 mins somewhere tonight with nothing out of the ordinary, and after leaving my friends house about 3 mins down the road the CEL came on.. Car wasn't idling rough, didn't misfire, didn't sound rough at all.. I pulled over and re tightened the gas cap just incase that was the reason (hadn't driven the car in about 3 days) and drove off, made it home with nothing changed. on the way I did a few pulls in all gears, and the car had all its power, no weird sounds from the engine or exhaust.
Got home and scanned, and this is what I got :
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 022 906 032 EG
Component: United R32 G 6404
Coding: 0000132
Shop#: WSC 31414
1 Fault Found
16398 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0014 - 008 - Implausable signal
Readiness:0000 0000
So.. not sure if its anything serious or not, or where to start..
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Getting a fuel pressure to low fault code. What could be wrong! 2010 GLI....
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I have an 05, 2.0 TDI which recently got a a PO118 fault. My mechanic replaced the green top sensor with one with a blue top (having been told that the green top sensors have been updated to blue). I am still getting an occasional PO118 fault but now the auxiliary (a/c) fan or the radiator starts running within a few seconds of start up, A/C on or not. SO, bad sensor, wrong sensor or something else entirely?
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This morning, I wanted to drive to work, but all of my coolant was gone. In the last couple of weeks, I had some errors with my speedometer and had it replaced a week ago, which did not fix my problem (the P0722 sometimes still came up).
Could it be that my coolant leaked over the last weeks and somehow messed with my speedometer, or are those most likely independent errors?
My car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and at this point I don't want to put too much into it any more. If you need more input, let me know.
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The code the R threw was p0606 which is the Powertrain/ Engine control module? Where these components are in my R? Or how I can go about trouble shooting this problem?
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I went to the workshop of Toyota in Iraq to repair the car. But do not have engineers repairing Prius cars. And they examine the device to detect faults only... These numbers faults
(P0A0F)Engine failed to start.
(P261C)water pump.
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I got the car flashed yesterday to apr stage 1. Now it won't start and throwing a fault stabilize control error an wont start. I'm stuck in a bad way. Any tricks to get it to start and get home?
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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I bought a 2003 that I was told was running it wasn't but it was cheap and only had 128000 miles on it so I bought it anyway. When I turn the key I here what sounds like the MG1 wants to engage but then nothing. Checked the codes, got 3125, cleared it, tried again, same thing. 12v battery is strong and everything 12v, PS, PB, lights etc., work fine with the key on so I don't suspect an inverter problem, but I admit I am not an expert so I'm willing to be schooled.
I don't have a scan tool that will give me sub codes but since this is gen 1 number 3, I also have 2 2001's that my wife and I drive, maybe I should look into purchasing one. I have an extra CVT out of a 2003, that was t-boned, that I know is good and I can swap it out if that is what I need to do. But before I do that is their anything else I should test to make sure I am on the right track?
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1) Are there 2 lights in the head light projector 1 for low and 1 for high? Didn't see the lenses move as high beams go on.
2) do all R's come with LED license plate lights? Mine did and I ordered a set from ECS. So if someone didn't get LED's and they want a set PM me. 20 bucks shipped
3) I'm having trouble searching for the coding on turning off the headlights moving (hate it!) I find myself watching the damn lights and not the road.
4) I'm having trouble searching for the code to have the DRL LED's on full with the headlights on. I'd be nice to get those both added to the DIY post that thread was nice enough to put together.
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