I have an 08 R32 and when i come off the the highway ramp and go down a gear the car seems dead or just stuck in between gears when I get back on the gas. I have no power for 2-3 seconds. That hiccup that every one is talking about, when I am in traffic in 1st gear the car just wants to surge off and on??? Is that the hiccup?
View 16 RepliesThe other day i was parking the car at my work place. The parking spot was on a hill maybe 10-15 degrees. As I was reversing parking onto the hill the car suddenly stopped and went and stopped and went(about a foot in between). like a manual when you don't give enough gas as you let go of the clutch. When i couldn't reverse in because it kept stopping, i drove forward and it happened again. i ended up letting the car roll forward down a bit and parked in a flat spot. I have always parked at this spot with no problems and i always use my hand brake. Was it because i wasn't giving it enough gas? Should i be worried? It never happened before in the 10k i drove it.
View 10 RepliesGot a Question for my Chevy Malibu 2008 LS (48K miles) , on the automatic transmission when i'm speeding up it's feel like a kick back between gears, it depend on how hard i'm pushing the throttle, some times it feels more when the throttle its moderate not soft or hard (like at 2000 or 2500 rmp), I already made check the transmission level and they said its OK and clean, it could be the clutch? i'm still on extended warranty but before i take the car to the dealer i wish to know if that could be or anything else and if this its something i can live with or better get it repaired soon
View 5 RepliesWhen I accelerate from a dead stop I have this squeaking that comes from the back of the truck that goes away after a few seconds. Then when I get up to about 50mph I have this really annoying vibration. Its not a real heavy vibration but it is there. I am thinking it could be the universal joints, am I way off here or what?
View 6 RepliesSo every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
View 4 RepliesThe needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
View 16 Replies2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
View 8 RepliesJust a heads up to all MKIV GTI owners out there, new and old. If you feel like the tension on your clutch pedal is deteriorating get it checked earlier rather than later. Because if the slave cylinder malfunctions and leaks you will be faced with a big repair bill due to the fact that the slave cylinder is located inside the tranny. Secondly because of this design, which I think is very stupid, it leaks onto the clutch assembly and can get on your clutch plate. At that point you should replace the clutch plate to prevent any further damage that might be caused by slippage. The clutch plate should not come in contact with any fluids or it will compromise the functionality.
View 2 RepliesSo what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
My daughters passat will not shift gears. Does'nt shift up when taking off. Does'nt slip or make noise. I have a 87 and 88 Cabriolet, one auto, the other manual 5 speed. Both have problems but, with the search key I have located and made repairs.
View 1 RepliesSo my sisters Passats battery died this weekend. She had jumper cables, but they were buried in the trunk amongst all her other crap in there. We ended up folding the back seats and crawling into the trunk to release it using the trap lever, but it was a PITA.
Is there no keyhole, or is it hidden like the door key holes? The trunk release button on the driver door is electrical switch, so that did not work either.
Huge problem. Everything was fine the first couple of times I drove today.
Tonight, when I was getting in the car, it turned on. I tried to change it from Park, but it just stuck and wouldn't move and let me change at all, even down to reverse. It's just stuck in park.
What is wrong with it? What's stuck, and what can I do to get it unstuck? Or else, I'd have to get it towed because it won't budge from park
I have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
View 3 RepliesI had been waiting to fix my explorer for a long time. The "previous owner" I will call him knowingly sold me a vehicle with a bad tranny without disclosing it... long story. To get to the important part, it had the common 2/3 shift flare. I dropped the pan, filter, and valve body, making sure to use a template and put the bolts where they go. Then i took the valve body to the work bench and replaced the gasket, which was surprisingly not blown. After more looking around, I realized the previous owner had already had the fix done. I tightened the EPC 1/4 turn and reassembled the tranny. When i started it, it was stuck in first gear. PRN21 all went forward (park just revved a bit due to the park lockout.)
I tore it back apart and found that the plunger on the side of the valve body was stuck in the 1st gear position. I pushed it back out and cleaned it up so it moved freely. Then I reassembled the tranny using new fluid again.
After that the tranny was stuck in neutral. I dropped the pan again today, and tightened the valve body bolts and made sure my solenoids are tight. Filled it back up slowly with the engine running. It shifted into gear for a second (tried to go forward while it was in reverse though). Then it was again stuck in neutral in all the gears again.
2 wheel drive. No problems shifting until a few weeks ago when I put a chip in the truck. Then became a funny sort of half shift in between 1st and 2nd. Kind of a half shift and then a final hard shift into the next gear.
I have only driven the truck with the chip setting in economy by Gearhead which is 40hp. Well, all day driving in an economy but I have played hard with all the settings, smoking my tires and what not but never actually driven it into anything other than the economy.
Tonight it's done. Starting in the normal drive from a red light it was in between that funny shift and then it just fell back all the way with a hard thunk followed by it wouldn't shift at all out of first gear. Took it out of tunes, same difference. Found out when I take off in drive it won't shift on its own out of first but when I put it in second from the tree it shifts into second as normal, coming from the drive. Then when I start getting up into the rpm range that she normally should shift past second I put her back in drive and she shifts into third (and fourth?) normally. If I remove the overdrive it still immediately downshifts. When I turn it back on it shifts back up normally.
But again, starting from drive I have to put it into second and then into drive for it to shift. I still have reverse and it still kicks directly into first from the park and takes off, just doesn't shift from first to second on it's own.
I checked the tranny fluid, it's seemingly fine. Great red color and full. Does not smell burnt at all. No flashing light or anything anywhere either. No blinking on the overdrive light on the stick or no warning lights anywhere else.
Passenger side headlight doesn't flicker or anything unusual but it just goes dead at one time then goes back on. For sure, something loose inside that does it. Bulb is still good.
View 8 RepliesI own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.
I own a 05' MCV36R and have noticed a strange acceleration issue in the past few months. In low gears the car seems to be lurching back and forth. The RPMs are consistent with this jumping up and down. The car doesn't have any issues when travelling at faster speeds, but perhaps i'm just unable to tell.
I first noticed the problem when travelling at about 60 kmph along the straight bit of road outside my house. At this constant speed the car seemed to lurch forward and backwards slightly. I also notice it when turning corners at low speeds, for example in car parks.
I did a test yesterday when first taking off. I travelled at 20kmph for a reasonable distance and found a speed/ rpm combination that magnified the issue.
I spoke to a mechanic and he said that the throttle body may need cleaning out. I have since done this and it hasn't resolved the issue.
Yesterday when I pulled in my garage, my 2007 Prius starting locking over and over by itself- it was freaking me out.
In doing some internet research and on here, I realized that my unlock key was “stuck†and could not be pushed in, and I assume this is what was causing the automatic unlocking. I have played around with it, but so far I have not been able to open it up or pop it back in place as some have been able to do.
A couple of questions:
I think this has caused the battery to die on my FOB, because none of the buttons work now, and the red light doesn't flash when a button is pushed. But, the smart key system still works, the doors unlock when I touch the handle, and I can drive the car. Will that continue to work with a dead battery in the key FOB??
What bugs me about this is I NEVER use the buttons on the FOB- always use the smart entry, etc, so I know I didn't do anything to cause the unlock button to stop working...
I have a 2010 Toyota Prius. The battery went dead, so I jumped it. The car started fine, but the Nav system is all black and says "Please insert Nav DVD". I do not have the original Nav DVD. How I can get around this? I've read some posts saying to disconnect the battery, but I'm not really sure how to do that. I feel like i've been through this before and the solution was simpler. In the past, I remember an option to 'skip nav dvd setup' or something like that. Unfortunately, I don't have that option.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 VW beetle with a fairly new clutch (2 yrs old). My boyfriend is new to a manual transmission and I can't say I know much about how it works either. A few times when he was driving he will reverse out of a parking spot and then shift to first and the car will make a deep rumbling noise. We turn off the car and turn it back on and its fine. Is the car stuck between gears? Why does it make this noise?
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