I just bought an '08 r32 a few days ago. '08 with 17k on the odometer.
At low speeds (parking lot or stop and go traffic), giving it light throttle, the car lurches as if someone was giving it throttle and letting go.
Is this what is known as the hiccup problem (fuel tank vent) or the mechatronics problem?
Car is stock and I seem to be getting a lot of jerking when I am on and off of the throttle peddle. It feels like a combination of sloppy motor mounts and a throttle response issue. What may be causing this? I am willing to bet that the motor mounts are partly to blame but it seems that there is more going on here.
View 24 RepliesIt's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
I've had my 08 r32 for about two months now, it has 93k on the clock. The dsg is great in everyway except in low gears/speeds. Especiially in traffic, it lurches forward or slows down rapidly like it dosant know weather to shift down to first or stay in second. Jumpy when starting off in first like I have to feather the gas pedal just right so it doesn't jump off the Line.
I took it into vw service center last week for diognostics test, they said everything was fine trouble code wise but they wii send the results to vw tech center and ask for advice. I got a call back today they want to do a cycle test, test drive the car with reset values and then cycle 6 times. From cool back upto operating temp etc and find out the results.
Issue on my wife's 2002 SC430. Recently ran into the well-documented disappearing acceleration caused by one of the trifecta of sensors on the throttle (TPS, APPS, and Throttle motor). Replaced the throttle position sensor and seemed to resolve issue. As of about a week ago, however, the car has developed a hiccup that I can't diagnose. Here's what I've recorded and done so far:
Symptoms:
-Hesitation at 1800 or 2300(?) RPM under light throttle and increasing load (often on uphills).
-Throttle down-blip of 100-200 rpm momentarily, only lasts ~1 sec
-Noticable lurch to vehicle, slows down slightly, results in 0.08G accelerometer reading when kicks back in.
-Change in engine exhaust sound as if in C-gate gears on a downhill (sounds like engine braking).
-Sometimes happens repeatedly in quick succession - up to 8 times in 10 seconds.
-Not speed dependent
-Overall performance is fine, not sluggish or hesitating when you stomp on it.
-Intermittant issue, not replicable, happens at random.
-No error codes thrown, no CEL, no DSP lights.
-Consistent -14.7psi vacuum registering on OBDII
Actions taken:
-Recently replaced and tuned throttle position sensor
-Seafoam on a nearly empty tank for 3 mi, half-full tank for 40mi
-Italian tune-up
-Disassembled and cleaned MAF
-Cleaned air filter (K&N)
-Reset computer (battery grounded for 10 min)
So... the question is, what the heck is this? Here are a few thoughts of what to do next in order of easiest/most likely/least expensive:
-Remove ABS relay and check performance (maybe TCS is hitting brakes a little?)
-Check all vacuum lines
-Seafoam cleaning through vacuum lines
-Remove, disassemble and clean TB assembly
-Test continuity on throttle body motor
-Test continuity on VVT solenoids
-Test continuity on full range of APP Sensor
-Replace VVT filters
-Replace VVT solenoids
-Check spark plug torque?
I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
Trying to track down an air conditioning problem. Seems like a vacuum leak somewhere is screwing with my AC and shutting it down upon giving it any throttle (hills etc). Where should I look first or is there a certain area that is prone to leaks?...truck is a stock 1993 F-350 460/auto.
View 1 RepliesGot my tires swapped out and noticed a whining sound coming from the rear of the car when I release throttle >40mph. Applying throttle it goes away. Soundalike it's coming from the driveline. Does the Haldex make a whining. It's loader than I would expect. Believe the roar of my winter tires covered it up.
View 1 RepliesI'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
Today while leaving work my car was giving off a strong fuel smell. Wife noticed the garage stunk of gasoline when she got home.
I removed the engine cover just now, and ran the car and checked for any leaks around the fuel rail area, but didn't notice anything.
On my commute to work this morning my dash lit up wth warning lights for the ABS and VSC, shortly after I noticed that the brakes were pulsating.
I was in slow traffic becuase of a wreck on the interstate and each time you touched the pedal enough to apply more than regenerative breaking, they would pulsate to the point of shaking the car (at under 7 miles an hour). The car acted as if the system was alternating between applying stopping force and not, several times per second.
I took it to a mechanic, he just told me to sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle body and butterfly valve, and to wipe it with a rag. He did not hook a computer to it, to diagnose. and he said if the light comes on again to buy a new throttle body... I am thinking of getting throttle body sprayer taking off the throttle body replace the gasket, and hope this fixes my problem. I forgot to change my air filter btw.
View 1 RepliesMy Car when it comes to a traffic light, wants to lurch just a bit, as I sit waiting for the light to change, I don't know whether it will stall, and also the RPM wants to rev on its own a little when I first get into the car to start it, and also while I am waiting at stoplights.
View 1 Replies2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
Having problems with a blinking emissions light at certain speeds? I have a 2006 F150 with the 5.4L engine with 132,000 miles on it and have had a problem with the emissions light coming on when I reach a speed of 80 mph. The pickup will drive fine up unto this speed but when it reaches 78-82 mph the pickup will start shake/rattle and the emissions light will blink on and off repeatedly until you reduce your speed to around 60 mph and then the light will turn off completely.
We took the pickup into the local Ford dealer for them to look at it. After they took a look they couldn't pull a code because there is no light that comes on until the higher speed. They told me that this was due to a bad tank of gas and this happens to prevent damage to the catalytic converter. They said it would be better once that fuel burned off. Well two full tank fills later the same problem persists. Just wondering, what course of action they took to fix it.
Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
View 2 RepliesSo driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
View 23 RepliesMk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
I tried to look for earlier posts re a new squeak that my R32 has just developed, now at 16k kms, 10k miles. Noticed it when I was cruising slowly towards the house, a light squeaking as I went on and off the gas; then found that it did it while sitting on the driveway, so I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or exhaust related. Our roads up here in Ontario have been a bit messy, but don't think I have hit anything hard.
My local VW dealer does not handle Audis and has never seen an R32 except mine when I stopped by to pick up a filter, so I don't want a wasted trip if they do not have the "fix", as they are not that close. After owning it for 7k km I'm getting used to the Haldex and DSG, but wish those paddles did not move with the wheel, probably why VW made it upshift in M?