Golf V R32 :: 2008 - Cranks But Won't Start?
Mar 23, 2014
I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
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My 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
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Ok so... have an 04 that has more issues than Playboy magazine... any DIY tips or tricks...
I dont have an original key but the key I have has worked before. Motor cranks but wont turn over. Have tried the battery unhook thing, didnt work.
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Truck has been running perfect and is my daily driver. Went grocery shopping with the wife and made two stops and drove it home. Parked in the driveway. No hint of any issues but when I went out a couple of hours later we went to head out to dinner and it cranks and doesnt start. Nothing out of the ordinary anywhere. No check engines lights, no theft lights flashing, nothing to indicate an issue. Engine sounds perfectly normal cranking, I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I cleaned the battery terminals today because they had some corrosion and I checked all of the fuses that have anything to do with fuel or fire and nothing was blown.
I also went and bought a Fuel Pump Drive Module and installed it and still nothing so I took it back.This is a pretty pampered truck, not a torn up beater. What else I should check? Will probably town it to a shop tomorrow if I dont have anything else to try but I am at a loss at this point. I tried to listen with a stethoscope and I dont hear the injectors firing or the COP's. Oh I also shot it with starting fluid and nothing happened so I dont believe its fuel related. I think something is keeping it from firing the COP's or the injectors arent firing. But what could it be? Nothing happened to the truck last time I drove it. Oh I did check the fuel pump cutoff button as well. Nothing there either.
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I have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
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My 2005 cranks but will not start. I spray starter fluid in throttle body and it will start but won't stay running. I've replaced the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit which is located under the spare tire. After I replaced the fuel sender unit It started and ran for about 30 seconds. It quit when the fuel line popped off the fuel pump and pushed gas all over the ground. I secured the gas line back on and now it won't start again unless I use starting fluid.
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I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
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I just went out to move my truck to take out garbage and it cranks but doesn't start. It is 4.6L 4WD. I sprayed ether in intake no change. Checked all fuses all good. It has been raining pretty hard the last 3 days and it has been sitting in rain all 3 days. I checked for codes with a simple code scanner no codes. But the code scanner I used is not able to do KOEO or KOER tests. I know it needs new plugs but it has never sputtered or died on me. Has slight misfire but not engine stopping. I havnt had any check engine lights or problems before.
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Brought a 2006 f350 6.0 from the action and knowing it was damaged from the frame, i went ahead and brought a another f350 6.0 2005 from someone around town, the last owner is calming the truck was stole, and most of the engine was stole, and the windows where damage. ( I just wanted to buy the truck for the body so i can transfer the engine to this one! ) but instead of switching the engine, me and my dad went ahead and only put the missing parts back onto the engine....
I can tell the last owner wasn't telling the truth, and me and my dad where thinking the last owner made up his own story about the truck being stole !! I did a vin check and noting came up about having a bad history!!!!!!!!! I'm thinking something went bad in the truck, and the last owner did his own fault story... Anyways!!!
we finally put everything back in place, and the truck cranks, but does NOT start!! and also has no spark. sometimes it sounds like it does wanna start!! we check the fuel, and wires, oil, fuel filer! everything good, but the truck has no spark, and where not sure if thats the problem. and also switch out the Crank sensor. Still no luck!!
And also there is smoke when we crank. battery are good too, and even left the truck 28 hours on the wire to head up the engine!!
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Bought a truck from a guy the other day. Long story, but he was a con artist. Told me the battery was dead from cranking it, he couldn't hear the fuel pump so he thinks it needs a new one. Got it home, checked fpdm, it was unplugged. Plugged it in fp running now. Charged battery. Cranks slowly won't start. Appears the engine has been changed. Have codes P0201-208, all injector codes. Cranking it over reminds me of an older distributor type engine that if off its timing. But also of cranking with a low battery. There's a new starter on it already. I'm going to pull the converter bolts on the weekend to see if they may have bound the torque when they installed the engine. Injector codes?
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My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
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About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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Car cranks over. Its getting fuel (you can smell it). Sometimes it tries to start but then putters out. Cam Position sensor? I haven't had a chance to pull codes. Ill hook it up to a vag com in the morning when i get back to work (car is parked there for now).
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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It happened about 6 months ago, when I was getting ready to leave work then all of a sudden, the R wouldn't start. Flipped the key on and off in the ignition a few time and it started. had a weird idle, bouncing all around at about 1000rpm. Driving it home, the car wouldn't hold an idle and i had to play with gas the whole way home. Once home i could not get her to start again. Checked for spark, had spark but change all 6 plugs and coils anyways cause the service was due.
I scanned the car with a scanner just to check the codes and all i got was a pending crankshaft sensor code. Replaced the sensor cause it wasn't too expensive and i didn't want it to be an issue. I have also notice at the time that the fuel pump wouldn't initially prime when opening the driver door. Got a new job, and didn't have the time to mess with the R, but now I am trying to get her running again.
With the fuel pump not priming I immediately went to think of fuel, and replaced the fuel pump relay with a brand new dealer one. I haven't retested for air/fuel/spark since I just started to re-work on it. But last time I did have spark as when I sprayed some starter fluid, she chugged a little. Also now, when i disconnect and reconnect the battery i hear the initial prime, but when the key is turned to the on position, I don't notice a secondary charge.
I checked the fuel line before the rail and there is some type of pressure(I don't have the tool to check precise pressure). I also scan the car now with just a code reader and I come up with nothing current or pending. I am in the process of trying to borrow a vagcom to read further into the car.
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Any way, working on an '04 R32 (as you could assume) that has a crank with no start condition. All fuses have been checked and have been verified as functional. Have replaced both J271 and J363 relays (labelled '428' and '100' on top in engine compartment in relay location next to brake fluid reservoir. Battery was also recently replaced as was the crankshaft position sensor.
Background: Vehicle was towed to dealership where it was diagnosed (somehow) initially by their tech that there was power all the way up until injectors and then nothing happens. This didn't make sense at the time, but the work was authorized to remove the intake manifold and fix the wiring underneath. A short time later (3 hours) and returned to the dealership to check on progress as we happened to be in the area and the S/A spoke with the tech and came back and said that he didn't think it was the wiring after all. Instead, at this point, he thought that it was the crankshaft position sensor. So after they decided they wanted to do several more hours of dio without contacting in advance (thinking that the repair was already authorized) they were no further ahead. I insisted on having the car towed out of there after they couldn't tell me for certain what it was. I can throw parts at a vehicle all day long as well.
The vehicle was towed out of there and the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. After the fact, a friend with Ross Tech verified that it was getting a signal (and more than likely replaced unnecessarily). Additionally, he also verified that injectors were also getting power and everything else was alright. The Auto Scan (posted below) showed that there was a Power Supply Relay for ECU fault (Fault Code: 17925) and that the two fuses - J271 and J363 were more than likely at fault. Both fuses were located under the hood but I also found a secondary location under the driver's side dash that had another basic power fuse labelled '100'.
Additionally, I don't believe it is the fuel pump that is at fault. I pulled the sender hose off of the fuel rail and inserted it into a juice container and it sprayed enough fuel to have started the engine. Currently, I am at a loss and very frustrated with this whole ordeal. The vehicle had been driven to work and sat all day, not exhibiting so much as an ounce of anything wrong. End of day, leaving work, the car would just crank and crank. Would it make sense to pull the plugs and let them dry out because of the excessive cranks? Maybe they're just fouled? Sometimes we get too caught up in codes and parts that it's easy enough to overlook basics. I don't really know, I guess. Below is the full Auto Scan from Ross Tech. The one I believe is contributing to the no-start is in bold. Just a side note, the dealership told me that NO CODES were present. This conflicts with what I have here...
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
VIN: WVWKG61J74D132718 Mileage: 164180km/102016miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BJS.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 EG HW: 14. 4.0 3
Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G 5626
Coding: 0000132
[Code] ....
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So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
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I haven't been able to start the car since I did a cluster swap a few days ago. Both my keys fobs are adapted so it's not the immobilizer. I'm not even sure if this has anything to do with the cluster swap, but it seems like too big a coincidence for my car not to start all of a sudden. I've done a cluster swap before on my TDI and didn't have any issues.
Fuel pump primes when I open the door, I have spark, and I've done a throttle body alignment but it won't start.
Measuring Block 022 under instruments shows that everything should be fine as far as the cluster swap
With the new cluster adapted, VCDS is supposed to show the car's VIN and immobilizer ID under the first extra field in the instruments address. The immobilizer ID shows up correctly, but three characters in the middle of the VIN show up as ZXX for some reason:
It does show the full VIN and immobilizer ID under Engine> measuring block 081 though.
I even put the original cluster back in the car and it still doesn't start.
The car has a UM tune and was running great before this happened.
VCDS shows no fault codes.
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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Ok, so I ran my car battery COMPLETELY dead the other day. After replacing the battery and checking to ensure that it had sufficient power, i tried starting it. It cranks over very solid, but will not start. I sent it to the dealer, and their diagnostic tools receive question marks back from all the modules. This has led us to the conclusion that my ECU (ECM) needs to be reset, or has malfunctioned in some way. There is an aftermarket flash on the ECU, but I do not know by which company as it was flashed when I bought the car. How can I do a hard reset on the ECU?
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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