I have a MKV R32 / 2008 Model / 45,000km /
Over the past few weeks, since the temp has been blazing here in Okinawa, I've noticed it takes up to 10 minutes for the AC to actually kick in.
I don't think it 'just needs time to circulate freon' because at right around the 10 minute mark it suddenly blasts cold air. It's pretty darn annoying.
AC needed regassing on my phaeton, lasted over a year before another regas, then 3 months and its blowing warm again
my symptoms:
1)AC stops blowing cold a few months after AC recharge
2)When it was blowing cold most cold was through only one vent (the one to the left of the steering wheel), whilst it was getting weaker (vlowing warmer) the one vent was blowing cold rest were all blowing warm
3)Slight condensation settling in center of windscreen, especially after rain
4)Something rattly rolls across the inside dash on occasion when turning sharply!
the codes:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
defective or incorrect basic settings
00445 - Loss of Refrigerant
I imagine the compressor has a leak. Euro Car Parts will fit and gave the part number as 3D0 820 803T. I've got it booked into the local dealership but am worried about a ridiculous bill.
There's a couple of mechanics I could use locally I suppose but its a very rare care with a very complicated AC system I hear. Especially on the part numbers and where to get a cheap compressor (if indeed that is the problem) I've got the shareware version of VCDS so cant do complicated stuff I've read about basic settings for HVAC and I've run that didn't work with the V71 motor code.
So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
View 2 RepliesA few months ago, when I used the AC, it would kick in cold for a minute, then blow hot air for three minutes or so... and repeat. I checked into it, and the only error I got was the N42 resistor short to ground code. Looked it up, and it's supposed to be located here:
(#1 in the pic).
Funny thing... Cars with Climatronic don't have that resistor in that location (or at all from the searching I've done... and my blower works fine on all speeds). A week later (after a cold front), the AC worked flawlessly... Through SOWO. Wasn't until earlier last week that I noticed it crapped the bed again. The compressor isn't even kicking on... I haven't had the chance to scan the car again, but I'm going out on a limb to say it's the same error, to a resistor that isn't on our cars...
The compressor seems to work perfectly when it does work... So I'm thinking something's not kicking it on like it should. I'll be checking all fuses/relays tomorrow in the daylight.
so on last saturday while i was driving my coolant gauge went from "operating temp" and dropped to cold. I was at cold for a few seconds and then bounced between cold and "operating temp" a few times before.
Now this morning driving to work the car warmed up fine to "operating temp". I was driving to work and all the sudden the gauge just goes straight to cold and stays there. I tried messing with the heater control buttons, turned on the a/c, defrost, heat, blower on high, blower on low... everything. Needle never moved from cold. I had heat at every temp desired, a/c got cold when i turned it on. I don't have a cel or any error codes showing...
My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesNormally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
View 12 RepliesThe a/c in my 05 Saturn Vue suddenly began fluctuating from cold to barely cold. In May I replaced the compressor, condenser, and accumulator. It blew cold until 2 weeks ago when it started blowing cold when it felt like it... ... I really don't want to spend more $ or time with my mechanic... Should I just give it a Freon charge?
View 3 Replies2003 Accord with 161K+ miles on it.notice several months back that the oil light would blink about 1 to 5 minutes into driving. I would turn the engine off, sit for 10 or 15 seconds, and start it back up and never see the light again the entire day.
this would happen once a week or so until I would get the oil changed, then I wouldn't see it again for 2000 or 3000 more miles.
Had Honda check it out, they found nothing wrong.
Lately, it happens more often, always first thing when driving, 1 to 5 minutes from starting.
Today I noticed something that makes me think it is a bad sensor; I have to make a U-turn today and I took it quite fast. As I was in mid turn I noticed the oil light KIND of flashing/blinking/trying to come on... like a light does if you hold the switch around the middle, flickered dimly. After I completed the U-turn the light did not stay on.
I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
I have a 2007 GS350, one of my headlights will come on but shuts off after a short period. 1-+5 minutes. I can immediatly shut my lights off and then turn them back on and the light comes on.Is this the Ballast? Is it the Headlight? Where can i get new headlights that wont break the bank if thats what needs to be changed?
View 14 RepliesAfter several checks and resets , my Touareg clocks are fast by about 2 min/week. No other electrical problems. Not a known problem with my dealer. Clocks aren't hi-tech ... MFI may have clock module- seems overkill to change it.
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View 3 Repliesi have a 01 b5 GLX 2.8L with the automatic climate control, well on occasion my temp will be reading fine than all the sudden drop to -36 degrees in 4 degree increments. when this happens my ac thinks its cold outside so it stops blowing cold air and blows hot air. i have to let the car sit with the ignition off for 15 min before it will reset. Is it my temp sensor that's bad and if so where is it located at?
View 10 RepliesMy 2006 stalled twice yesterday. Was running normally, then suddenly stalled after driving for 10 minutes. Error message said something like "insufficient power available". Started up fine after that, but a few miles later had the same problem.
Some potentially relevant background. The night before these two stalls I got some cheap gas from a no name station. A month earlier my car had a really rough start and check engine light came on, but it drove fine. Mechanic diagnosed a leak in the air intake tube (into turbo, I think), and replaced it. He said he got some strange codes though. (120D, 121B, 216D, 21E0 for air mass meter and fuel trim, and also control module comm code E000, 710B, 900B).
He said if the problem reoccurs I probably need an air mass sensor replacement. Thoughts?
Given it restarts so easily, I'm not too concerned re driving the ~10 miles to my mechanic, but I'll be avoiding highways and rush hour. Or, do you think, I can damage the car by driving to the mechanic?
I am experiencing issues with starting my '08 R32 when it is cold (winter, CO). Almost all of the time it sputters when starting cold and 25% of the time is stalls out and I have to restart. My local dealer told me it is related to the fuel tank valve recall?????
View 4 RepliesI just replaced two bad sensors, (bank 2, both sensors). I went through three cold start ups, and the autozone codes still claim the sensors are rubbish.
View 1 RepliesThe a/c on my '05 Camry still puts out cool air, but not really cold anymore. I compare with my '08 Highlander that can still freeze your arms off in no time. We have had a warm spell lately, which is supposed to continue for another week, and while the Camry is putting out enough to eventually cool the air, it's just not up to it's usual standard. Are these a/c systems supposed to be sealed, and if so, is a leak the most likely reason ? I have not had it serviced in the past 3 years I've owned it. Is it worth it to try the "do-it-yourself" canned a/c service bottles or should I get the system pressure checked out first ?
View 6 Replies2 weeks ago my ac on my 2005 passat started working on and off, sometimes it would blow hot air and sometimes it would blow cold air. I took it to an independent shop (which we trust, they been working on our cars for a long time and never been ripped off...but first time I've taken a Volkswagen to them) and they just did an AC diagnostic test and re-filled the Freon, replaced the filter...it worked for 1 hour and went back to blowing hot air again, so I took it back and they said a valve stem was loose, causing the AC to work sometimes and not others, so they replaced that with a new one, my AC worked for 4 days...than on the 5th day it blew hot air again.. What could possibly be causing this??? It is stressing me out, especially since I need AC in hot Houston summer weather.
View 15 RepliesI have a 95 Saturn s-series with trouble starting when cold. Sometimes it take 5-10 minutes to get it started. When it does start it is all you can do to keep it running. I have had it to 2 different repair shops spending way too much to not have the problem fixed.
View 30 RepliesI have a 99 gls with an a/c problem. Had Freon put in, and it blew cold for about 30 minutes. Now just blowing warm again.
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