Golf IV R32 :: Won't Start / Cranks Strong But Still Won't Chug
Mar 15, 2015
It happened about 6 months ago, when I was getting ready to leave work then all of a sudden, the R wouldn't start. Flipped the key on and off in the ignition a few time and it started. had a weird idle, bouncing all around at about 1000rpm. Driving it home, the car wouldn't hold an idle and i had to play with gas the whole way home. Once home i could not get her to start again. Checked for spark, had spark but change all 6 plugs and coils anyways cause the service was due.
I scanned the car with a scanner just to check the codes and all i got was a pending crankshaft sensor code. Replaced the sensor cause it wasn't too expensive and i didn't want it to be an issue. I have also notice at the time that the fuel pump wouldn't initially prime when opening the driver door. Got a new job, and didn't have the time to mess with the R, but now I am trying to get her running again.
With the fuel pump not priming I immediately went to think of fuel, and replaced the fuel pump relay with a brand new dealer one. I haven't retested for air/fuel/spark since I just started to re-work on it. But last time I did have spark as when I sprayed some starter fluid, she chugged a little. Also now, when i disconnect and reconnect the battery i hear the initial prime, but when the key is turned to the on position, I don't notice a secondary charge.
I checked the fuel line before the rail and there is some type of pressure(I don't have the tool to check precise pressure). I also scan the car now with just a code reader and I come up with nothing current or pending. I am in the process of trying to borrow a vagcom to read further into the car.
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My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo won't start...It cranks strong but won't turn over..I can hear my Fuel Pump kick on from the back of the Vehicle but it won't kick on listening from the engine compartment??I checked all fuses.I had a tune up a couple of months ago..My check engine light was on before the tune up and my mechanic said that the tune up corrected the problem the car was coding out... I've been told to check the ALARM by turning the alarm on and off and also unlocking the car Via the driver door.. This didn't work.. I've been told to check the Fuel cut off switch(RESET BUTTON) for my make and year but can't seem to locate it...
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I bought a 2001 F250 V10. When I first started it cold at the dealer that I bought it from, it cranked for a couple seconds and didn't start. I cranked it again and it caught and started right up. I figured it probably had to do with the truck sitting for a while with no one looking at it.
The next week of driving it, I never had any issues with it not starting on the first try.
1,900 miles later, it's sitting in my driveway in Minneapolis. It's Thursday and I haven't driven it since Sunday. I go out to start it, it cranks and catches, then immediately dies. Subsequent tries to start only result in cranking with no hint of catching. I've given it a few minutes to cool off between attempts and still nothing.
It's 24 degrees out. I'm not sure what weight oil is in the motor. It's got a full tank of fresh gas that was purchased here in Minneapolis. The battery is strong, as it's cranking really fast.
I've just come over from a 93 F250 Diesel, where I might expect problems starting at this temperature, but issues from a gas engine surprise me. What this might be? I bought this truck to be more reliable than my 93 that had 276k miles on it. This one is only a baby with 80k miles.
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Shade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
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I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :
-fuel pump-
-fuel pump relay-
-coils-
-spark plugs-
-crank position sensor-
-fuses-
the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)
no fuses blown
fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)
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I have a 2011 GTI (stock - no mods) and noticed in the past two weeks or so a gas smell. The past few days it will be strong at start up after sitting for a few hours. I brought it to the dealer and they did not find any issues. After long drives, the odor is not present.
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I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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About a week ago I purchased a new K&N air filter for my '09 GLI (6spd stick & all factory options with 55,000k on the odometer). Outwardly the vehicle seemed to run better (although a new clean air filter of any type will make a vehicle run better) however, 2 days later I noticed that the engine seems to chug a little when it was cold. Not missing like a plug wire off but a chug where it surges forward then holds back continually until the engine warms up. This persists today. I've also noticed a little bit of a rough idle. I've re-inspected my installation and nothing seems to have come loose and the filter fits perfectly.
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About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
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Car cranks over. Its getting fuel (you can smell it). Sometimes it tries to start but then putters out. Cam Position sensor? I haven't had a chance to pull codes. Ill hook it up to a vag com in the morning when i get back to work (car is parked there for now).
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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Any way, working on an '04 R32 (as you could assume) that has a crank with no start condition. All fuses have been checked and have been verified as functional. Have replaced both J271 and J363 relays (labelled '428' and '100' on top in engine compartment in relay location next to brake fluid reservoir. Battery was also recently replaced as was the crankshaft position sensor.
Background: Vehicle was towed to dealership where it was diagnosed (somehow) initially by their tech that there was power all the way up until injectors and then nothing happens. This didn't make sense at the time, but the work was authorized to remove the intake manifold and fix the wiring underneath. A short time later (3 hours) and returned to the dealership to check on progress as we happened to be in the area and the S/A spoke with the tech and came back and said that he didn't think it was the wiring after all. Instead, at this point, he thought that it was the crankshaft position sensor. So after they decided they wanted to do several more hours of dio without contacting in advance (thinking that the repair was already authorized) they were no further ahead. I insisted on having the car towed out of there after they couldn't tell me for certain what it was. I can throw parts at a vehicle all day long as well.
The vehicle was towed out of there and the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. After the fact, a friend with Ross Tech verified that it was getting a signal (and more than likely replaced unnecessarily). Additionally, he also verified that injectors were also getting power and everything else was alright. The Auto Scan (posted below) showed that there was a Power Supply Relay for ECU fault (Fault Code: 17925) and that the two fuses - J271 and J363 were more than likely at fault. Both fuses were located under the hood but I also found a secondary location under the driver's side dash that had another basic power fuse labelled '100'.
Additionally, I don't believe it is the fuel pump that is at fault. I pulled the sender hose off of the fuel rail and inserted it into a juice container and it sprayed enough fuel to have started the engine. Currently, I am at a loss and very frustrated with this whole ordeal. The vehicle had been driven to work and sat all day, not exhibiting so much as an ounce of anything wrong. End of day, leaving work, the car would just crank and crank. Would it make sense to pull the plugs and let them dry out because of the excessive cranks? Maybe they're just fouled? Sometimes we get too caught up in codes and parts that it's easy enough to overlook basics. I don't really know, I guess. Below is the full Auto Scan from Ross Tech. The one I believe is contributing to the no-start is in bold. Just a side note, the dealership told me that NO CODES were present. This conflicts with what I have here...
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
VIN: WVWKG61J74D132718 Mileage: 164180km/102016miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BJS.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 EG HW: 14. 4.0 3
Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G 5626
Coding: 0000132
[Code] ....
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So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
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I haven't been able to start the car since I did a cluster swap a few days ago. Both my keys fobs are adapted so it's not the immobilizer. I'm not even sure if this has anything to do with the cluster swap, but it seems like too big a coincidence for my car not to start all of a sudden. I've done a cluster swap before on my TDI and didn't have any issues.
Fuel pump primes when I open the door, I have spark, and I've done a throttle body alignment but it won't start.
Measuring Block 022 under instruments shows that everything should be fine as far as the cluster swap
With the new cluster adapted, VCDS is supposed to show the car's VIN and immobilizer ID under the first extra field in the instruments address. The immobilizer ID shows up correctly, but three characters in the middle of the VIN show up as ZXX for some reason:
It does show the full VIN and immobilizer ID under Engine> measuring block 081 though.
I even put the original cluster back in the car and it still doesn't start.
The car has a UM tune and was running great before this happened.
VCDS shows no fault codes.
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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Ok, so I ran my car battery COMPLETELY dead the other day. After replacing the battery and checking to ensure that it had sufficient power, i tried starting it. It cranks over very solid, but will not start. I sent it to the dealer, and their diagnostic tools receive question marks back from all the modules. This has led us to the conclusion that my ECU (ECM) needs to be reset, or has malfunctioned in some way. There is an aftermarket flash on the ECU, but I do not know by which company as it was flashed when I bought the car. How can I do a hard reset on the ECU?
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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