Golf IV R32 :: Unibrace Bolts Were Unscrewed About Half Way And Are Loose
May 4, 2010
So i folded down my seats today to try and fit a box in and i noticed that the two lower unibrace bolts were unscrewed about half way. When i put it in, those bolts were pretty tight. There is a little movement if i push down hard on the bar. Those dam nutserts dont seem to be a good long term option. I mean if one of them was loose then , but both are loose, and the tops are perfect. Im guessing because maybe the bottoms are taking most of the pressure.
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One thing I cant clear is how to fix the annoying door clicking. The one bolt behind plastic cover on body side isn't a torx 40 its a bolt/philips and its tight. My 2 bolts on door side dont seem to be getting tight. The doors still clik seems to be in join in middle of door arm.
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
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2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
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Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
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I have noticed new drivers seat squeak. It only happens with weight transfer side to side at lower speeds ( hard right and hard left below 30 mph, or entering a driveway). I have looked at several posts and it seems like people have had luck with simply tightening the bolts for the seat.
Well I did that and it still making the noise. I have isolated the noise to the lower part of the seat right behind the molding. Behind the molding and behind the seat control switches there is a white box for the switches. It seems like the noise is coming from there. I noticed that if I pop off the control switches and I loosen the screws for the control switches the noise gets a touch better.
I took it to the dealership and they told me they tried to add some oil between the leather and the molding but it did nothing since the source seems to be behind the molding.
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I need to take the tranny (automatic) off the old engine (BEW).
What are type/size are the bolts connecting the tranny to the block?
The 2 bottom ones I got out using (assuming) 10mm (?) triple square.
What size (socket/tool) and type (triple square, torx, allen) are the others?
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Do we suffer from this clunking noise as well? I know I have rattles and things that make noise over bumps and humps in the road. But is this what I hear?
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Is it possible to be able to Drive an R with the drivers side rear caliper bolts missing?
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New owner for a 2002 SC, Made mistake when lowering top to hit trunk button, top has stopped half open half closed Light on lose button is solid red and if pushed blinks red but nothing happens.
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Long story short, over torqued the top two stretch bolts and destroyed the threads. We helicoil'ed both holes and put the bolts back in. That was about 4 months ago.
Today both bolts snapped not while moving. We dolly'd the car home and bought a replacement bracket, however all three bolts along the bottom that go into the transmission housing broke off inside.
I'm a tad stuck at this point. I could drill and tap new holes over the existing, but i question whether that is a good idea. My other thought was to get 3 of the larger stretch bolts that go in the top, completely drill out the three that are broken and tap the big ones in. This thought would also require drilling the bracket to make the larger bolts fit.
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So this ticking sound isn't coming from the back of the car as I've searched. I'm positive its coming from somewhere in the engine bay. When the engine is on, I can hear a tick every half a second and I'm a little concerned because this hasn't happened previously.
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I was removing the coil packs on my car in preparation for the new ones coming in. The far right coil pack came out very easily and was about half as long as I expected. The other half of the coil pack was at the bottom of the spark plug well. I reported a misfire yesterday. As the mechanic would say "now there's your problem". removing the bottom half of a coil pack?
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When I try and use my blinkers they don't work half the time. I don't know how to explain it exactly but ill upload a video of it tomorrow.
Has this issue where blinkers don't blink? Especially when it's cold out it makes it worse.
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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How to reset the window limit on a mk7 golf? I installed power folding mirrors with new modules the passenger side window goes up and down fine but the driver side will only go up half way then does back down like its hitting something.
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When pulling down my drivers window and then pulling it up it gets stuck half way up. I have to push the window hard toward the outside while pressing the button to get it back up. If I am pulling down the window and stop before this point, I have no problem pulling it up again.
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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So i have a 2010 gti stage 2 uni, when i have a half tank of gas or less when it reaches about 4000rpm it will loose power harshly that it almost makes u eat the steering wheel, but when it has more than half a tank of gas it drives just fine. I get low pressure fuel rail code when scaned with vagcom...
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First day that is below freezing and my rear passenger driver side door is hard to open more than half way. I really have to push it to open all the way. How to fix this?
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