Golf IV R32 :: Fuel Gauge Stopped Working
Mar 6, 2015
My fuel gauge just quit working along with the "miles till refuel" in the message center on my R. Before I suck it up with a trip to the dealer, Is there a sensor on the fuel tank that goes bad?
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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This morning I started my car and all was well, all gauges working. Drove 2 miles and stopped to get gas. Put some gas in my car and started it back up. My gas gauge never went up. Stayed slammed down to the E. All my other gauges were working normally except the gas. My gas light was not on saying I was on E, and I don't have a CEL.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine came to me and decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connector and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning.
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Just bought my 5th Vdub an 01 Jetta Wolfsburg with 1.8T and 5 speed manual. I bought it from a local dealer and found the speedo not working. they ordered parts for it to fix that and the front end. They tried to fix it by replacing the VSS. CEL was off when I first started driving it then came on shortly and began to stutter. I haven't hooked my vag-com yet because I just got home with it a little while ago. I think it may be a loose wire because it also beeps and fuel gauge goes to empty around corners. Typical areas to look for etc???
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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I have a 1990 volvo 240 dl and the gas gauge no longer works. Just wondering if there's anything I can do to fix it.
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So the gas gauge stopped working correctly over the winter and now in addition to that the DIC is telling me "Check the gas cap". I put a new GM cap on, the filler neck was rusty so I sanded it and applied some oil to the lip of the neck and the cap.
DTC code is 440 and I keep getting informed to check the gas cap. The car has 120k miles on it.
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Driving home from work today, normal day in the high 60s, my temp gauge randomly stopped working. It was right at the 190 mark where it should be then a few miles from my house it just dropped to 0. When I got to my house and turned it off the fans stayed on for quite a few minutes.
I went inside and looked around on a few different forums. Most people said it was the thermostat or some sensor that could have crapped out.
Probably 30 minutes later I went out to restart it hoping the problem magically disappeared and it actually did. Start up and went straight up to 190 as it should. Turned it off to no fans as usual.
What this could be? Could it just be a sensor on the way out? Still under warranty so might try calling the dealer tomorrow when they open to ask for their input.
Just as reference my car is a 2011 with about 48k and is revo stage 1 for about 3k.
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this thing stopped working on me today, can i fix it? or how can i get another one?
04 Ex
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I have a 1997 Cirrus. The ABS light came on about 2 weeks ago -- this is after i drive about 30 yards. The brakes seem to be operation ok and when the light does come on there is no bell or chime sounds to indicate something is wrong. ALSO, the RPM gauge just started to not work. Occasionally it may operate correctly but most of the time it just sits on zero. What the fault or faults are?
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Last week, our 2004 Camry's dash stopped displaying information - fuel gauge / speed / etc. two nights ago, I reseated a number of fuses, and it worked for a while, but stopped working again yesterday. All the fuses looked intact, even though some of the contacts were a little gunky. I cleaned them off, but it continues not to work.
Additionally, after reseating a number of fuses, I get 5 quick beeps when turning off the car, which may be coming from our aftermarket radio.
I read on another site last night to disconnect the battery, and that may reset the computer, and relight the dash. I did that, it didn't fix the problem, and afterwards when I started the car the idle was so slow the car wouldn't even stay running. After about 20 minutes, the idle was still very low, but the car would run. When I checked it this morning, it was idling fine, but the dash still wasn't lighting up.
The seatbelt lights and gear light up ok, but nothing else on the dash works. Battery, alternator, dash? What does this sound like?
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I have a 1991 F-250 Supercab with the 7.3 L Diesel and twin fuel tanks.Recently the gauge sender for the forward tank stopped working. Ford tells me that the sending unit is obsolete. Perhaps they want me to buy a new truck. I recently found a NOS sender on E-bay but it is supposedly for the plastic fuel tank and mine is the steel tank. What steps would I need to take to make this sender work in my truck? Do I need to eliminate a ground wire, add aground wire, or make up insulators to prevent the sender shorting out on the steel tank?
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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I have stock 02 F350 7.3 with 74,000 miles ... Today i looked down and noticed my RPM gauge sitting there at 0 ... It was working just fine yesterday. I figured before i go digging around looking for the issue id see what is causing it not to read ..
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Just bought a 04 f150 crewcab 4x4 and the fuel gauge doesn't work.
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I have a 2002 Prius, and I have been struggling trying to get it fix. But it's either one thing to the next without completely knowing what's what. Recently, the right front bearing and the left rear bearing, both front struts/shocks, right balljoint, and two front brakes were replaced.
Before these replacements, I had a P1436 code for the valve which was lube but nothing happened. Then after replacing the front struts/shocks, turn the car on for a test drive, brake light and check engine light came on, speed odometer it not working. I used the OBII scanner from autozone and got P0500 said: vehicle speed sensor A malfunction.
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My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
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My 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
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I borrowed a friend's small Toyota truck for a few days of easy chores, and made a point to check the fuel at the beginning: the gauge showed 3/4 full. Four days and only 25 miles later, when I got in to return it, I noticed the fuel gauge was not working, I'm certain there's no fuel leak, I would have noticed that: the truck had been parked on my property the entire time, driven only a few hundred feet from one spot to another moving firewood around, so I would have smelled the gas if there was a leak.
When I added a couple gallons of fuel, the gauge didn't budge. Once on the road, I realized that the engine temperature gauge was also dead - no change on the gauge after 10 miles. So I have two non-functioning gauges which failed on my watch. This may not be directly my fault, but as my friend is kind enough to lend the truck whenever I need it, my contribution is to provide maintenance.
Is there anything in common between the two gauges which would explain the synchronized failure? Or is this total coincidence? This one is outside my experience, so don't know where to start. It's a 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, base model truck, about 150k, generally runs just fine. There are no other gauges, and I don't recall what warning lights there might be, but I didn't see any after I realized there was a problem. Would the whole instrument cluster die at once, or could this be something like a bad ground for the cluster? I don't mind investing effort into tracking down and solving a problem, but if it needs a new cluster, that will cost more than I'd like to contribute, yet the problem occurred while I was using the truck (gently). My total use of this truck for all the times I've borrowed it is certainly less than 300 miles, so I'm reluctant to fund the entire repair if this is something that just comes with age.
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