Golf IV R32 :: Won't Set To Readiness?
Nov 6, 2008
SO my car since i have replaced the stock air-box tubing hasnt thrown a code in over 300 miles, and usually it came back within 100 miles.... so i assumed all is well, but nope! i drove it to the inspection place again and it wont read at all so they said readiness isn't set yet, is their a way i can have some1 in nj with vagcom come down and meet me at the place in bound brook nj and set its readiness right there??????? anyways i dont know what to do this is getting tedious and expensive.
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1.8T ... Failed smog test, then got PCV hoses repaired. Now I'm failing because the OBD readiness codes won't reset. I've driven over 100 miles and the shop that fixed it said to "just keep driving it" but that they have no other solution to get those codes to reset. Any tips to those codes to ready?
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The airbag readiness light stays on while driving my chevy truck. I know it means that there is a problem with the airbag system. My question is: Will the airbag go off randomly while driving? not during an accident?
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I've bought the accessory cargo net for my Mk7 Golf (5N0 065 111) but it's a flat-on-the-floor type, and I'd like a vertical version near the rear of the cargo area. It looks like there is some sort of rigging points on the sides of the interior panels right near the hatch, where a vertical net might fit. I find no such part from VW.
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Not sure what happened to our old thread, but I'm starting a new one. I think it's a great way for all us gals to keep up with eachother, see what we're doing with the cars.
I'm about to do a little upgrade to the stereo. I just ordered a uber stealth sub box from Nik.
What's happening, ladies?!
Oh...and pics of the ride (w/specialkk43 - Girl Power, Kyle! )
RedLineNikiR - 4-door TR
specialkk43 - 2-door CSG
Abalinka - 2-door RB
Cozotessa18 - 2-door RB
htull85
KatieLuvsFstRabbits - 4-door CW
contrition - 2-door CSG
kkd22 - 4-door CW
VWCabby89 - DPB
Jon B. - 2-door CW
bootleg betty - 4-door RB
djangofett - 2-door CW
Hobbes279 - 4-door CW
ongnoi - 4-door CS
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I just bought my R about a month ago from a private seller..its been a dream. Just ran it through emissions and it passed just fine.. but a day later my MIL comes on.. its not flashing but it still concerns me. Anything i can do without taking it to VW for a 128 buck diagnostic fee?
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And I'm talking usability wise when you have hundreds of mp3s. Apparently sound quality is the same in both. Buying the media-in box and the USB cable for the 310 is almost as expensive as ticking the 510 in the options list and use an SD card, so I'm a bit torn on which I should order (if I'm ordering a MkVI in the first place...).
Let's list a few pros and cons on both I know without having used either with mp3s:
RCD-310:
+You use the device with physical keys instead of touch display - you hit the right keys while keeping your eyes on the road
-Not enough info on the display for easy use with a lot of mp3s/folders?
RCD-510:
+More info on the display compared to the 310
-Too much info on the display for safe use while driving?
-Not being able to feel the (touch display's virtual) keys forces you to take your eyes off the road while using it
BTW: Can browse music folders with the steering wheel controls?
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I need to know the ECU ID of my car, is there a way of getting it via Vag Com?? I've searched the forums but haven't found anything..
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I went with my friend to pick up his GTI today. (Black 4-door) After 68 miles the CEL came on, and the idle at a light i'll be all over 2000 then drops to 1500 then 1000. No other things noticed, we called the dealer they said to bring it by on Monday.
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A couple weeks ago I got a check engine light for the first time on my R, but before I could take it somewhere to get the code pulled, it went out on me. So I figure if it aint broke dont fix it. (FYI I have the flapper valve mod with the switch installed.)
Over the next few days the light would go on and off about once each time I drove it to work (about 45 min), and it seems to be associated with the flapper switch. The strange thing is that the light only comes on when I have been driving in "stock" mode for a while. Every time I leave the flapper open the light goes out after a while and seems to stay out.
I know "just leave the flapper open all the time!" which is what I've basically been doing, but still curious about what could be tripping the system.
Here's a pic...
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I have a stock navigation unit in my mk5 r and looks like oem aux cord in the glove compartment but the aux doesn't want to work at all.
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So i got a check engine light and i know its a o2 sensor, but does code reading can tell you wich of the 4 sensors is bad??
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Three weeks ago I was driving around Roscoe Blvd down at Panorama City on a slow Saturday afternoon.There was a construction and people were driving slow and it was a hot day. I was running maybe 25 or less mph till I realized that the manhole steel cover, did not have it's steel flat surrounding on it and I think it was 2 inches deep. I tried swerving to the right a bit and ended slicing my Continental tires on the side then it was instant flat. Got the tires at Discount tires but did not have the software for the 2008 R32 to align it. Brought it to Pep Boys but when they aligned it, they said they were -3 or -2 from the right front side but managed to align it to R32 default setup on the front left.
The car is pulling a bit to the right but not that much. I've been running 65 mph on the freeway and letting go of the steering and it doesn't even pull to the right compare to running the neighborhood streets.
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I pulled into my garage today and turned off the car, walking around it I heard a fan sound and it turns out that it was coming from my car. I went back in and turned it on to see if it was running hotter than normal (which it wasn't) and when I turned it off the fan was on again. Is this normal?
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I had to disassemble the center console when I upgraded my sound system (aftermarket). I unpluged the airbag light in the middle console. Since then, the airbag light in the dash is on. I tried unplugging the battery for a couple of minutes but it did not work.
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Is it on the Fuse box or at the ECU. I heard you just pull a wire and tape it to the side, I just don't know where its at! Also, a picture wouldn't hurt.
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My AC fan has gotten noisy. Maybe the bearing is going or maybe I can oil it and get rid of the problem that way. Any instructions on how to access it?
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I don't know home many of you have noticed this but recently changed my reverse lights in my jetta to LEDs and now when I shut off the car the light is still on but dimmed.
I have heard this happening to people with their map lights also when replaced with LEDs should inner worried or was that current always there ?? And is there a way to make it go off when car is off example a resistor or something?
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Sometimes when the brakes are really wet. As in for one example a steady highway cruise, having not touched the brakes in a while (so they're about as wet as they'll get), and then coming to a stop sign at the end of an off-ramp.
Rotors are "OEM slotted" from ECS, pads are Porterfield R4-S. This at both ends of the car. I'd think the slots would in fact work for the situation. But again, I can't remember having this elsewhere..
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When outside was 80F and I tried to turn on AC all the way down to LOW, but it takes time until cold air come out, and after driving like 5min then it started get cooler. but it never gets really chill. I have BMW that gets super cold.
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I've recently started having problems when shifting into second gear. When I go to shift into second gear, the action feels kind of spongy, and the car won't go into gear. If I cycle the gear shift back and for from 1st to 2nd a bunch of times it will eventually go into gear. From that point on it will shift with no problems. The problem is sporadic and tends to occur more often when the car is cold.
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