Golf IV R32 :: Won't Holding Charge - Fix?
Jul 21, 2012
I hooked up the battery charger to it last night and let it run for about 12 hours. It was pretty hot to the touch and the charge only went up about 20%. I decided to unplug it and charge it later. About 3-4 hours later I plugged it back into the battery charger and it went from 40% back down to about where it started yesterday- 15-20%. It seems like it's not holding charge, and wondering if I should go with another RedTop or get something else entirely. Thoughts? I bought this about 5 years ago.
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I've had the alternator and starter tested twice,new battery. Its a 97infiniti qx4 and it won't hold a charge. The weird thing is, I have to wait day or two after I charge the new battery (which I replaced twice thinking it was the battery),then it will run for almost a day and then it just dies. And if someone tries to give me a jump, it will not charge and fire over. I have to get it towed back home and wait a day or two. (the wrecking companies are getting to know me very well). I've checked under the vehicle for any wires that are not suppose to be touching each other. Its my only car that I have at this time
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2008 SC 430.....battery went dead, to zero. Got jumped. Went to dealer who sold me new battery. Drove 90 highway miles. Got home & put trickle charger on to "just see" what battery recorded. It was at 75%. Removed trickle charger. Checked again following morning & battery at 65%.
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My 2006 Prius battery is not holding a charge very well. About a month ago I had rodents in the engine and had both my stereo and wiring harness replaced at the dealer. I've noticed that every morning the Energy Monitor screen shows only 2 purple cells left in the battery. It always recharges as I'm driving it, but then it loses its charge after siting still a few moments. No idiot lights are on. I've done the DIY system check mode and everything says OK, except audio- it shows "check" in red. Also, my 12v battery is at 11.9. (I replaced my original 12v battery several months ago with no problems).
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I'm almost always on manual mode and when I hold onto it, it tends to squeak with any subtle movement of my hand. Do I open it up and add grease(not sure on how to do this)? Take it back to the dealer to fix?
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Only had my R32 a few months, but when i drive it after leaving it stood for a while (basically from cold), i find i am unable to accelerate briskly (not trashing from cold, but for example pulling out of a junction) the car feels flat like it's holding back, once over 3000rpm(ish) it seems to suddenly jerk into life.
In the lower revs you can put your foot to the floor, and whilst there's more noise the car feels very sluggish and lumpy.
But once the car has warmed up, and the temperature gauge has been sat at 90degrees for some time, the car will wake up and drive totally normal.
I have the 6463 software update, i also have the latest green top coolant temp sensor. There are no fault codes, or misfires registering on vag-com, and I've cleaned my MAF sensor (plus done idle and full load logs which all look fine).
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When holding the key to the lock position the windows should go up and if held to the left to unlock they go down. This rarely works on my car, i can sit there for 10 minutes and try it 100 times but it will only happen twice.
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So I've been noticing some issues with my 2011 GTI with only 1800 miles. I had some weird drive by wire issues, like the motor holding its RPMs with the clutch in for excessive time, a start up and idle issue (TPS?), my passenger window is very slow (heard that this is common), and now my driver window hesitates and pauses when rolling it down... ERR!
And yes I will take it to the dealer, its just that I live 100 plus miles away.
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I am having a really curious issue with the charging system on my 1999 Golf VR6. The battery will not charge and the alternator seems to be nonfunctional. While running the voltage at the battery starts normal but drops until the engine dies within 20 minutes. Over the last two days I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the battery grounding cable with no change in behavior. The exciter wire on the alternator is showing 9 volts when the vehicle is running and 0 when it is off. There is 1.6 ohms of resistance between the B+ terminal on the battery and the respective terminal on the alternator. There is 0.3 ohms of resistance between the B- battery terminal and the case of the alternator. My task for tomorrow is to trace the exciter wire back to the cluster and try to troubleshoot it there.
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I recently acquired a 2000 Golf GTI 1.8 20v that came with a few preexisting issues, one of which being that the alternator will not charge the battery. I've checked my voltage while running "starting with a full charge" and it slowly but steadily declines from 12.09 to 11.0 over a 2-3 minute time span. On the dash the battery light is on and never turns off and my radio does not work at all "even with a full charge". I have already replaced my alternator, battery, battery cable, and the two relays in the engine compartment. The relays in the engine compartment were causing a "ghost" amp draw but that has been resolved. I do not have a 109 relay as I have read that this could be the culprit, when I examined the "under-dash" panel I found that my panel does not have one. I have also replaced the 30amp fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and cleaned the grounds.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 4-Motion 6x Tiptronic.
I was trying to get some data looged using my VCDS cable. APR requires me to do a 1500 rpm rolling start in 3rd gear all the way to red line/fuel cutoff - WOT all the way.
I accordingly put the gear in Tiptronic mode and then try as I might, the second I mash the pedal @1500rpm, my Tiggy downshifts into 1st and cycles its way thru 2nd and 3rd @ around 6400rpm.
How do I do a WOT run while getting the Tiggy to HOLD 3rd gear all the way - no automatic downshifts and up-shifts?
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Want to figure out if the 2015 has this feature where you hold the key fob down and the windows roll down. Can't seem to figure out if this feature exists.
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Have not purchased a Prius yet as I have a TDI awaiting results of the lawsuit. I am wondering over the last week or so, Vegas has been really hot. Just wondering how the new battery and the MPG is holding up in the Vegas heat.
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I just bought a 2008 Passat last week, and am still learning all the features in the car. I previously had an '05 Jetta, and I was able to remotely open all of the windows by holding the key in the unlock position.
My manual says that I can roll down all of the windows from the remote by holding the unlock key on the remote, but it doesn't work. I have even checked the settings to make sure that the "Convenience" option is set to "All" windows. Am I missing something? What do I have to do to get the windows opened / closed remotely?
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My hatch no longer holds itself up, it sags then slowly starts to close, I guess I need to replace the arms or shocks, not sure what they are called, what options do I have on these apart from the dealer?
unrelated question, do you ever need to change the Transmission fluid on a 2007 passat 2.0T Auto? Dealer says no, making sure.
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How many bolts actually holding the intake manifold onto the heads. Are there more inside the plenium when you take the top off or can you remove the unit as one piece to replace the intake manifold gaskets?
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I've had a Prius (2nd generation) since 2006 and have been thrilled with it.
So today, I purchased a Prius V (three, I believe). Very happy with it in general so far, but incredibly disappointed to discover that some of the features I have most enjoyed about my 2nd generation don't seem to come with my version of the Prius V.
On my Prius (2nd), I can unlock the hatch (and all other doors) simply by depressing the rectangular button with the key FOB in my pocket. That does *not* work on my Prius V and everything in the manual and what I can find online says that it *should* work.
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I am having an issue where when I turn my car on after its been sitting up for several hours, it makes a noise similar to if you held something to a fan blade or bike spoke while it was turning. The sounds last a couple seconds and only happens after the car has been sitting for several hours.
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I have an 08 Sonata that just failed inspection due to the parking brake not holding. With the lever full up the E brake doesn't stop the vehicle at idle.
The rear wheels have disc brakes. How do I adjust the cable to remove the slack. I believe there's a center drum so I suspect there's a star wheel that must be adjusted. If so, which way does the star wheel need to turn, up or down. Is it the same direction on both the left and and right side of the vehicle?
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recently I've been having this problem with my '90 C1500 305. The engine stumbles after holding down the throttle slightly for any time longer than 5s and then releasing, like if I apply the gas lightly to slowly roll up to a light. When i let off the pedal, it will stumble then recover after a second. Sometimes its so bad it almost stalls.
There is no stumbling after heavy throttle inputs. Not sure what causes this.
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Scheduled maintenance for changing spark plugs for my Camry 2004 2.4L is either 120k miles, or 144 months (12 years). My Camry reached 12 years first. In removing the coil connectors, 3 of 4 holdowns cracked off. I guess not so surprising after 12 years subject to engine heat. I'm NOT going to replace the connectors. Looking for a patch for this problem? Duct tape will just result in adhesive getting everywhere it shouldn't. Maybe there's a high temperature "crazy glue" I could apply at the connector interface that will last another 12 years, or 120k miles?
Otherwise, I'll use the "hope adhesive". That means I'll just hope the connectors don't work loose at a bad time.
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