148,000 miles, and yesterday my R decided it would no longer allow me to use first gear. It sort of starts to go in gear, but feels kind of mushy, not positive, and if I let out the clutch, the gears grind, but will not engage. All other gears feel and perform normally.
View 7 RepliesI have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
Been having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 RepliesMKIV jetta GLI, first two gears just won't engages as if it's still in neutral. Have to start her moving from 3rd. What could be the issue?
View 14 RepliesMy wife was driving my Stage 1 R last night (by herself) and she ran into an issue where when she tried to leave from a red light, the clutch was slipping through the first three gears and she could barely get up any speed. She pulled over, let the car sit for a few minutes and then started going again with no issues.
She drove home about 5 miles and told me about what happened. The car smelled like burning clutch, but when I took it out for a quick test drive, everything seemed fine.
I am at around 5000 miles and have never had any issues before and I don't ever do high-rpm launches. So, could this have been a fluke or a sign of the clutch/pressure plate issues people have been having?
I have had my 2010 Tiguan SE for about a month now and I have noticed a sound when it shifts that sounds like a tinny grind or rattle. This happens mostly in "D" not "S" mode and at the lower RPMs. Is it normal?
I took it to my dealer and of course they said they heard nothing, but it doesn't seem like something a new car should sound like.
I have 20th gti and I downshifted into third the other day and heard a small grind and all of the sudden I lost all my gears, I couldn't shift into anything and was stuck in third. I was able to move the shifter up and down from 3rd neut to fourth without engaging the clutch but it was all the same gear:S I managed to get home in third considering I was close by and when I stopped i was able to throw it into reverse but it would act like i was in a high gear(either 4th 5th or 6th I am not sure).
View 4 RepliesMy AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
My wife and I have a R and a rabbit, she drives the R mostly and i drive the rabbit mostly..... I drive further to work, anyhow the past week she told me that the clutches feel like they are slipping and when she puts it into drive sometimes it wont engage... or when she puts it in p it says in d...... anyhow off to the dealer it goes for who knows what and how long... and the car is stock....
View 24 RepliesI've been experiencing a loud clutch squeal or screech when I first engage the clutch after the car has been sitting for longer periods of time, overnight etc. It goes away after a few shifts and only returns after the car sits for a long period.
I brought it to the VW dealership since I'm still under warranty for a bit. After two visits the have come up with two hypotheses without any evidence. They claim to have not heard it or found anything wrong visually.
1) it could be a rear main seal leak. Or leak from somewhere on the tranny onto the cultch. When I first drive it is burned or wiped away. After putting on the lift they found no evidence of leaks. So hypothesis two:
2) Thy flywheel may be developing a bit of a patina of rust. After the clutch is engaged a few times, the rust is gone and the squeal goes away.
AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
Ok at waterfest I got a UM ECU/DSG tune with the spark cut option. I now noticed that once in a while, only in regular D mode, there will be a very very aggressive and uncomfortable shift. It only really seems to happen under higher load and form 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th. The car shifts and there is like a double spark cut pop instantaneously after each other. It feels like the car shifted 2 gears and each with a spark cut. I called UM and they said sometimes it can be fixed with a clutch alignment. Car hs 56k mile on it and it was just recently DSG serviced.
View 3 RepliesI had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
2nd gear runs fine, but occasionally, when in first i have a real bad stutter in the engine and it continues from the moment the clutch begins to engage on up. The car just seems to jump or skip along rather than run smooth.. It occasionally will work itself out but other times will continue for 5 seconds at which i switch into second gear and everything is gravy from there. What the main root cause of this is? I don't want to get the wrong thing fixed which I've been trending on lately.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
Just picked up a 2004 MK4 Jetta GLS 2.0 for really cheap.
As the title reads I have found some issues with the car after giving it a once over.
Dash/Radio lights - My Dimmer Switch is not getting power. I was wondering what the next step would be. I checked all the fuses and there is no issue.
Cooling Fan - I read about testing the plug and a CFM. Which should be done first?
A/C - I changed Electrical-Switch & Relay: A/C Clutch Switch and it did not fix the issue.
I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
View 5 Repliesmy 91 525i wont engage 1st gear..fluids fine..nothing smoking...fluid levels great. color correct in fluid appearance..reverse works..no funny noises from rear end..car just will not shift above 1st. i have replaced transmission filter and fluid.
View 1 Replies