Golf IV R32 :: Wheels Locking Up Under At-the-limit Driving / Brakes Malfunction
Jul 20, 2013
Today I had a wonderful experience at the morning session of the Auto X school at Waterfest 19. It was my first autocross experience and, man, it was a blast. I couldn't believe the car I've been daily driving for three years has so much untapped potential!
Anyway, I had a bit of a technical issue that was holding me back. I got my first two runs in with the instructor on board; I was slow but had no issue. Then, the instructor took the wheel to show me how it was done and ended up spinning the car out on a section of the course with back to back 90's turns, turn #2 having a reducing radius. It felt as if the brakes just locked up and the back end just came all the way around. Once I got back in and had more of a grasp of the car's ability, I experience the same issue and had a few spin outs of my own, in glorious clouds of white smoke.
The feeling is like the car locks the brakes, the brake pedal travels further to the floor, and the throttle is disabled until the car settles again. It even happened once or twice without pressing the brake at all; just engine braking and hard turning in, the brakes locked with no interaction with the brake pedal.
I've been able to duplicate the experience by "panic braking" in the straight line. When the car begins to skid, letting off the pedal will not disengage the brakes and the throttle will be deactivated until the car settles.
What would cause this? ESP was off, but do our cars have a yaw sensor or some system that will still apply the brakes when the car is at its limit? I searched but didn't find much. The car is on stock suspension.
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1 my axles look like there rusting in the middle like the plastic coating came off is that normal??
2. 1st all fluid change should I let the dealer do it or go it myself asking is it kinda easy or a dyi I'm off the 3rd week in April so I would have time. but I'm a novice at best at wrenching
3. any way to see if I have a chip or Programed ECU
4. not sure this make a difference but if I jack both wheels in the air and spin one the other wheels does not move is that normal ( well it moves like less than a inch)
5. I just got a Ross tech cable what are some must do's
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Replaced all components of front right braking system. Calipers rotor pads and hoses. Still, every other day or so the front right brakes gradually start locking up within minutes of driving.
I just bought car. I am stuck with this problem now. Only thing left i'm told is replacement of abs module.
Can you just bypass a faulty abs module instead of replacement?
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What would cause this? The brakes work fine until you get into that range of brake pressure in which the abs wants to kick in. The brakes then lock up(may be only front driver), the pedal sinks to the floor, and don't disengage until the car is at a complete stop. It does this with esp on or off.
The previous owner changed a front wheel sensor and bled the brakes. The abs module fuse under the battery cover was melted but not blown.
VCDS shows no codes. I did not do output test on pump, didn't have my laptop with me.
Abs pump bad?
Mc?
Servo?
Caliper?
Brake line?
I bought this car 2 weeks ago and the previous owner failed to let me know about the problem and it happened to me a mile down the road after purchasing the car. I started to notice a lot more because of the rain and snow recently. It's definitely an uneasy feeling. I really don't wanna drive the car till it's sorted.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
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Out driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
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I have checked egr, hoses to airpump (decided to order new ones), exhaust manifold`s bolts, vacuum hoses etc. I even ducktaped to be clear those hoses. Still waiting for brand new hoses.
I will get this fault:
17497 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 2; Range 1
P1089 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded
And noticed this one:
Seems to be second air injection. The engine is almost new 7000 km mileage after rebuilt. BFH engine code Euro model. First 5000 km i didnt saw the foult then every 500km and now its coming every 20km.
Some details on vdcs:
Car is running ok on idle 780 to 800rpms. Is it possible to mix up these # 24 and 25 connectors? How i can check those?
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Our red line is at 6k rpm, but I accidentally revved it to about 6500 in second gear today, and nothing kicked in to stop me. I'm surprised that this car doesn't have a rev limiter at red line. Looking for about rev limits on these engines (2.5)?
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Just curious how large of an SD card the MK 7 audio system can recognize, as I believe there were limitation in previous generations. I was hoping to get a 128GB card and throw all my tunes on there instead of using an ipod or my phone.
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Car shut off while driving to work. ASR and EPC light lit up. Pulled over to the shoulder, car had a really rough idle. Cut the car off and started it back up. Now the pep in my car is gone and it seems like I'm driving with reduced power.
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What this code is about it?? 5784 sporadic 001-upper limit exceed
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I have had my 2011 model III for a month, and today I had to brake rather abruptly. I heard my tires squeal! Is this normal? I have owned at least two other vehicles with ABS, and I recall the pulsing of the pedal, but not tire squeal.
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I have a 2006 Saturn Vue that has an intermittent problem. After commuting for 50 miles and parking for the day, when I leave to go home by pulling forward out of the parking space, there is a loud metallic clang and the left rear wheel locks. When I step on the brakes to stop the car stops, but the rear wheel stays locked. When I press the brake pedal all the way down about half way down there is a difference in pressure on the pedal and the rear wheel releases. This will repeat up to three times. Has also happened after the 50 mile drive and stopped at store for 20 minutes. Will not repeat every time, and of course not when there is a mechanic is anywhere near the vehicle.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord Ex i went an had a brake booster and brake master cylinder put on my car. About 3 to 4 days later my brakes locked up on me so i had the brakes bleed, a new brake line, and a need ABS pump put on and the brakes are still locking up what is causing this to happen?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
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my front brakes have been locking up here recently. I think it my be due to a blockage in the resovior. I had taken it apart upon the first spell of it locking up, had my buddy press the brake pedal a few times with the lines from the res disconnected and it seemed to be be a little clogged at first and then freed up once it was stepped on hard a few times. So i reassembled the system and bled the brakes out and it seemed to be fine for about 70 miles or so. Then out of no where it started locking up once again.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX. Purchased used with 82,530 on it. Current mileage of about 114,100 on it now. I recently replaced the front and rear brakes. During that process, I was informed that the rear brakes were warped (they were cleaned & adjusted when I replaced the front brakes, but they continued to squeak like a transit bus). I had the rear shoes replaced and there is no more squeaking, but I get a "drag" that is particularly noticeable when riding at highway speeds (55mph or higher). The drag seems to come from the rear right of the car, and it reminds me of what you might feel if you were driving against the emergency brake.
Took the car back to the mechanic that did the rear brakes. He started down the road of it being bad ball bearings. He test drove it with me and experienced the drag, but when he put it on the lift said something was catching and made an adjustment that eliminated this 'drag'. My impression was that the drag came from some oversight when the rear shoes were replaced.
The car rode fine for a few days after that, but now the dragging symptom is back. The mechanic's assumption was that it could be a ball bearing that is on it's way to going bad. I don't hear any noises in relationship to this drag. It feels either like something is holding the car back, or like something is keeping the power from the engine from making it to the wheels.
Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
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Recently I notice, when I'm going 60+ and then I need to slowdown, my steering wheel starts violently shacking. Plus I have watch with metal band and it it's making even more noise when it's starts to shake. Sometimes it's not that much to slowdown, but that shaking is too much. It's not ABS, because when ABS working you feel it in brake pedal, here is in steering wheel.
Also, I would like to mention the fact that I need to change my brakes! Now I don't know if its because of my brakes or some other problem.
Not that I need it, but this though keeps popping up every now and then. My speedometer shows 160, but I can go only 125! I was told that its some kind of chip that prevents to go higher. Is there a way to take that limit off? This question is purely for my curiosity.
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I jacked up both front wheels and I can't move them at all. I was able to get the car into neutral and still they won't move. emergency brake off as well (even though that only stops the rear wheel) Could the disc brakes be too tight or could they just be on all the time somehow? I had noticed that when driving, it felt like the brakes were on. This feeling was especially evident when taking my foot off the gas pedal to glide on flat ground, and the car would slow down faster than I thought it should. Also notice a huge drop in MPGs. I know the car is FWD, so maybe there is supposed to be resistance but I can barely get either wheel to turn more than an inch or two.
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