So, there is a weird ticking that is coming from the belt side of my engine. The speed of the ticking varies(increases) with the speed of the engine. It isn't as fast as a valve knock so I cant figure it out. thoughts?
View 3 RepliesI've had this weird noise coming from the driver side front (i'm guessing inside the engine bay) for the past month now. It started ever since hitting a bad pothole that wasn't avoidable and couldn't see very well during one of the nasty winter storms we got here in PA. Ever since the steering has felt off, like just not all there anymore. Over the smallest of bumps it makes this noise. Extremely aggravating for me since I try to take great care of the car and keep everything tight and new feeling. Since I don't know how to work on newer cars (only mk3 and lower) I have no clue what to do to check... I've had it at the dealership a few times to report the noise, 2 of the times they just took it for a drive around the area and back and each time the tech said he didn't hear a noise (of course).
Roughly 15k miles on the car currently
Noise started around 12-13k
Also recently noticed that only coming from the same side, the shock over big bumps makes squishy noises, as if it were blown or something...
People have suggested that it could be the sway bar, tie rods, end links, bushings, anything. I personally think it's the strut tower bushing or bearing, but again, I'm not much of a newer car mechanic.
Pics of car ...
Car- 2010 mk6 gti...
Motor- 2.0T with stock turbo, chip, apr intake and muffler delete...
For the past week when i go into boost I hear a strange sound, almost like a wet belt sound (everyone knows that annoying sound on old ford on a rainy day) Again it only happens when in boost. When the car idles the noise is gone.
Not really sure on where to start with this?
Recently my GTI has been ticking, but it is only between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. After 2k it runs fine and doesn't make the sound. Local tuner suggested an oil pressure problem (not using the proper oil) but I am using the proper oil. It has been like this for over a month now and nothing has come of it. It is coming from the belt side of the motor and sounds like plastic ticking. Could it be a belt?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 Gli 1.8T with 69,000 miles. This ticking sound that I hear from the inside of my car is coming from the right side of the engine bay. It starts during idle. It starts ticking and gets a little faster and then stops for a few seconds then begins again. It fully stops while driving. I changed tensioner, belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and oil change with mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40.
View 6 RepliesHad my R for the last 2 months and just recently have noticed a quiet ticking type noise (e.g tuck tuck tuck tuck tuck) at low revs (1500) 1st/2nd gear. What this may be? it seems to be coming from the top right hand side of the engine.
View 3 RepliesSo I was trying to track down this squeak noise and I removed the drivers side seat belt but now the belt will not retract? It's stuck like this, is there a manual release? Buying another one is not a option right now. And I have to drive the car tomorrow morning.
View 1 RepliesI recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
View 7 RepliesJust came back from lunch and the car seems to be vibrating more than usual. Engine is making some weird knocking noise. I think I also smelled fuel coming from the car. Could it be the cam tensioner?
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Noticed it when I was driving with the windows down today. It's a pretty noticeable ticking noise coming from the drivers side and gets faster as my speed increases. I inspected it and noticed nothing touching the wheels.
View 2 RepliesSound coming from the engine and it is coming from the passengers side of the engine. The year is 2003, LS model, and four wheel drive. Well, I took it in yesterday and the mechanic said it was the "Camshaft" and this was a normal sound. Not to mention I have had this vehicle in for 6 other problems: 3 times for the four wheel drive light malfunctioning, 2 times for the service engine light coming on and then they had to replace a seal on the left front deferential because it was leaking oil.
View 14 RepliesI recently noticed a noise coming from the left side of the engine where the pulley's are. It sounds like a ticking noise coming from where the belt is. What the possible solution could be.
View 6 RepliesApparently the PO could hear a faint ticking initially while the car was warming up then go away after a minute, but then it went away. Out of nowhere I heard a very prominent ticking from the belt/supercharger area that doesn't go away once the car is warm. My first thought is a bit of the belt might have started peeling off and is hitting something due to the frequency of the tick, but the belt looks ok from the top of the engine bay. Tomorrow I'm going to start taking bits off to gain access to the water pump/pulley to make sure the water pump pulley hasn't started falling apart.
Ticking from belt/supercharger area. I'm pulling stuff off tomorrow to take a closer look, What would cause this?
I finally jumped from MKII land into a new GTI . Is it normal for it to sound like a diesel when at Idle? Its only really noticeable when you lift the hood. Im used to my MKII with sticky lifters but the sound of the TSI seems a bit loud.... I haven't been able to compare it to another car.
View 8 RepliesSo this ticking sound isn't coming from the back of the car as I've searched. I'm positive its coming from somewhere in the engine bay. When the engine is on, I can hear a tick every half a second and I'm a little concerned because this hasn't happened previously.
View 3 RepliesI had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
View 1 RepliesSo I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
I have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
About a two weeks ago, I had a CEL pop up. I brought it in to the stealership to get it scanned. I don't recall what the exact code was, but the description was something to the effect of "Cooling System Performance." I hadn't noticed that the engine temp was any different than it had ever been, so we kinda figured it was just a bad sensor. We popped the hood just to take a look at things, but he didn't really notice that anything was off. I thought the engine sounded a little difference. It wasn't idling rough, but there was a very subtle ticking noise. He didn't think anything of it. So he cleared the code, and sent me on my way.
The code came back a few days later, but disappeared about a week ago. Since then, however, my .:R has been feeling a little different. Like I'm losing torque. The ticking noise has become distinctly louder, although I can only hear it when I pop the hood. Last night, i was listening to it, and there are two separate noises, coming from two different locations. One is coming from the left side of the engine, most likely from one of the belts. The other is the one that worries me the most, as it's quite a bit louder. This ticking noise seems to be coming from the engine itself. The longer I let the car idle, the louder it gets.
One of my friends took a listen, and he suggested that it could be a blown piston ring. This would explain why I'm losing torque, but I haven't noticed any blue smoke coming from my exhaust.
MKIV Jetta wagon 2004. Bought used last year. Four previous owners with 125K on it.
Problem: After oil change where I previously had 5W-30 with valvoline dino, I changed with a different brand 5W-30 (Peak brand). Ticking noise started immediately from engine area usually only after it got up to temperature. Also using different oil filter. Initially not sure if it was injector or lifter tick. It ended up being lifter tick, and the give away was when going down a small hill and the engine downshifting, the increase RPM caused the tick to increase at the same rate. So here is the path I went down.
1. Swapped out oil filter - no change. I thought this might work because I was using a fram tough guard.
2. Added some rislone with ZDDP additive. Quieted down the valvetrain quite a bit, but did not solve the problem
3. Added rislone engine treatment. Got better, but still not totally solved.
4. Tried to "drive it out" and get some mileage on the rislone . Didn't work. Definitely better though
Finally, after all that I figured let's give my baby some of the thick sauce. So I pulled out a quart from the diptube with my suction device and put in a quart of 10W-40. Almost immediately PROBLEM GONE. So either that crappy peak oil doesn't have the viscosity that it advertises, or the valve train is just getting old and needs a little bit thicker oil in the summer. Probably both. I will also keep using a small dose of the ZDDP additive to extend the life of the valvetrain, as it sounds really good with that stuff in the system.
Two days ago I started to hear a strange engine ticking noise. This is not the normal sound of the injectors pushing fuel into the engine, i know what that sounds like. This is far louder. And when I start to accelerate, the ticking becomes faster. When I cruise at a steady speed, the engine starts to sputter until I press on the gas or brake.x I took it to my local dealer and they ran codes and did an oil change. The guy told me to drive the car around for a bit and the noise will disappear. They also told me that if it did not disappear then I am basically screwed because it could mean that "my valves collided with my pistons due to over exceeded engine speeds" I will post a picture of the code and a video of the sound. [URL] ....
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