Golf IV R32 :: Way To Get Rear Alignment Closer To Spec?
Jul 8, 2013
It's been a minute since I've been on these boards, surfing, searching posting, etc.
Anyway, I replaced my upper control arms when I replaced the suspension in '06 w/some ECS units. Since then I've run through some rear tires more quickly than than up front. It's been tolerable bc I don't drive it as much.
The last alignment, the tech said he got it close to spec, but not quite. The inside part of the rear tires is where the problem is.
If I replace the stock lower control arms solve the problem of the getting the rear alignment closer to spec? Thoughst?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
And I have coil overs, I'm not super low but pretty low and every time I get my alignment done they say they can't so anything about the rear having so much negative camber. And it is really eating up the inside sidewalls of my tires like crazy.
View 5 Replies
I've done the center console with cup holders conversion, but I've never bothered installing the rear cup holder, until now. Is it supposed to have this gap?
View 12 Replies
I just picked up my new 2011 last night. Noticed today it looks like the corner of the rear bumper on the passenger side is not flush with the car and seems loose. Its not to noticeable but when compared with the driver side there is definitely a difference.
View 10 Replies
I just picked up an 08 r32 and was wondering why the lights that are closer to the grill do not turn on. When I activate my high beams the hid's just get brighter. Is something maybe the previous owner programmed
Because I have checked out everything
View 15 Replies
So my rear and front toe is off and is causing inside wear on the rear tire. I want to add a shim to fix it as the rear axle would be too costly to change.
Also how much would I need to fix the rear? I'll be getting them aligned after the rear is fixed.
View 3 Replies
I noticed that in my car the rear spoiler is not flush with the body of the car, Is there any way to adjust it? By looking at it very briefly it seems that the rear hatch will need to sit lower for better alignment.
View 1 Replies
I shimmed my prius this weekend to remove about 0.44 degrees of positive out of 0.60 theoretically bringing total toe down to .16.
The shims add about 3.8 mm between the hub and the suspension. The bolts are M10s I believe with 12 mm heads. There are 4 bolts per hub. I often take off ramps at a pretty good clip rather than braking when going from one freeway to another. The 4 bolts already seem like they wouldn't be enough to hold the hubs on.
When adding the shims, it moves the hub further away resulting in a little more torque at the mating surface on the opposite side of steering. Also, the bolts just barely make it to the last thread.
View 12 Replies
Are both necessary?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 Camry and I got an alignment at Firestone they rep told me that my rear left camber alignment is off, my right camber alignment is is within range.
Actual :-2.3 Range -2.0.-0.5
He recommended I change my struts as Toyota does not specify rear camber adjustment. Is this normal on car with 160k on it ?. I have seen several chamber kits out there should I just get one and go somewhere else for them to realign it with the kit ?
View 5 Replies
I just replaced front shocks and got the car aligned. Now I feel the difference in front to rear and want to change the rear shocks out too. I seem to remember someone suggesting under normal circumstances the Prius rear setup never gets aligned. Is this true?
View 4 Replies
My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
View 10 Replies
I just got new tires and had an alignment done. The values for the rear were off ... not too much ... but the tech said the rear suspension of the Prius isn't adjustable.
View 1 Replies
What is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
View 3 Replies
Gonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
View 3 Replies
Question: after replacing rear shocks on 2009 Altima, does in need a rear wheel alignment? After shocks were replaced on my Altima (without wheel alignment), I drove about 4500 miles. After that the tires were rotated and the back tires installed in front. I immediately noticed loud road noise, mechanic says it is uneven tread wear and I think - this is too much of a coincidence. So should they have done the alignment when they replaced the rear shock absorbers or not?
View 6 Replies
I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
View 2 Replies
My headlights seem to be off. The beams are spread too far apart, leaving a dark spot right in the middle. It is a 2016 and I just noticed it tonight. I have been trying to find the horizontal adjustment. Is this it? I have tried to turn it but did not notice any difference. Which way am I suppose to turn the left and right one to have the beams move closer to each other?
View 7 Replies
My 2001 Santa Fe had a slow PS leak for over a year which I dealt with just by adding fluid several times a year. Then I let the car sit for a few months while I saved up for input/output sensors. I just replaced those and discovered that the PS leak is noticeably worse.
I searched the forums and found that the most common problem is a clogged reservoir screen, resulting in fluid backup that sprays the engine bay. I don't think that's the problem. The engine bay is dry and both reservoir hoses are dry. The spot where I've found the most wetness is closer to the firewall and much lower than the reservoir but I need identifying it.
View 4 Replies
Proper alignment and re-installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of my 2015 F350.
I removed my rear driveshaft recently (it slipped right out upon removal without any force or resistance), and I'm getting ready to re-install it again this weekend, but I've noticed that one of the grooves between the array of male splines on the shaft itself appears to be slightly different than the rest - it seems to be slightly wider. It even has a white-colored stripe of paint down the full length of the groove as if it were denoting it as being somehow different from the rest?
Problem is, when visually inspecting the splines on the inside of the receiving yoke (the part that the spline fits into), I do NOT see any such differences. In other words, it doesn't appear that there is only ONE way to properly insert the front splined-end of the driveshaft. What am I missing here?
Is the front splined-end of the rear driveshaft intended to be inserted into the yoke in ANY position around the dial? Or is there only ONE specific position or orientation that it is intended to be inserted or installed? NOTE: I've seen references elsewhere on-line that seem to indicate the need for proper alignment when there are multiple U-Joints, and maybe this is a part of it (?), but I'm not quite sure which U-Joints to consider or how to interpret such an "alignment".
View 14 Replies
I wanted to know what happens when the injector hold down bolts are not torqued down to spec, what problems would arise and could it be a reason for somewhat hard starting?
View 1 Replies
