My car just hit 70k miles, I have had no problems with my car since 28,700 miles. I kinda drive it like an old man I know I know I should be ashamed of myself lol. When do you find most 04 .:R's Waterpump/timing chains needing replacement? Just curious if I need to factor this into my budget.
View 7 RepliesHow to change the timing belt and water pump on a 2006 2.0t passat?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Intrepid ES with a 3.5L V-6 with 264,000 miles on it. I have recently had the timing belt and water pump changed. Three weeks later I am driving home and the temperature gauge starts climbing. This is the first time this car has ever overheated. Well, I call my buddy who is a certified mechanic and he tows the car to his shop. I have him check the water pump to make sure it hasn't prematurely failed. He tears the front of the engine down and inspects the pump. He finds nothing wrong with the pump but he discovers the timing belt tensioner has failed and it has caused the engine to jump time, I tell him to go ahead and replace the tensioner.
After he put the engine back together he started it and it ran cool while it was sitting at idle for about 45 minutes. Then he took it for a test drive and it overheated again. He checks the thermostat and finds that it has also failed; he replaces that also, still overheating. New radiator hoses, upper and lower, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and it still overheats. He put dye into the coolant to check for a blown head gasket and it tested negative for a blown gasket. The exhaust doesn’t smell of burning coolant or producing white smoke. My mechanic friend and I both have run out of solutions…
We have a 2005 4runner with 75,000 miles that we recently took to the dealer because the coolant level was low. Turns out we need a new timing case cover, oil gasket, and water pump.Question 1 - is this normal to happen on a 2005 4runner with 75,000Question 2 - How much is a reasonable amount to pay for this repair? Evidently, it is a laborious repair.
View 4 RepliesI had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
Alright so MK4 vr6 AFP engine. I did the timing chans when I bought the car around 175-180K. Car now has 224K miles on it. A few days ago I started hearing the chains slapping around. Because I didn't want to call it a broken guide just yet for tor the hell of it I took the upper chain tensioner bold out dunked it in oil and pumped it up till it was hard again. Put it back in and drove the car about 130 miles straight. I didn't hear them making any kind if noise. The next day I drove it about 30 miles still no noise. Later in the evening I whent to get gas when I pull in the drive way I noticed they were rattling around again. So the next day I drive it back home (130 miles) and noticed they were even louder especially around 1500-200 rpm.
So I took the tensioner back out and dunked and pumped it up again. It didn't do anything this time chains are still loud. But I noticed when I was pumping the tensioner in thr oil both times the air bubbles weren't coming out of the bleeder hole they were coming from the end around the piston. When I did the chains the first time I got everything from Germanautoparts.com. and I notice that the tensioner they sell isn't genuine vw part the only place I found the actual vw pary is ecs tuning and the stealership. Is it possible I just have a defective tensioner? I really want to get to the bottom of this before I go and pull the motor and find that nothing is broken. Should I just buy the oem tensioner and see if it fixes it first?
So I was getting my car flashed to stage 1 at a dealership here in the Chicago suburbs and there was CSG R in there with the timing belt shredded. Turns out water pump came apart, shreded the timing belt, and apparently the pistons smashed the valves. I got a call from my friend whos a mechanic and said another one is getting towed there today with the same issue. Both have between 2k and 3k miles on them.
View 24 RepliesI planned on replacing the timing chains, tensioners, guides and oil pump when I replace the timing cover tomorrow, however, I overlooked was the specialty tools to lock the cams and crankshaft in position. I came up with a couple methods but wanted to know of some other way to replace the timing chains without the cam/crank tools?
Turning the crankshaft keyway to 12 o'clock instead of TDC : Positioning the crankshaft keyway at 12 o' clock will keep all pistons close to mid cylinder and essentially eliminate the risk of interference.
or
Neutralize the cams : Loosening the bolts on the cam bearing caps while still keeping them in place allows the cams to move without engaging the valves.
My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
View 1 RepliesI just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
View 2 RepliesI replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
View 2 RepliesI just joined this great forum and having a tough time finding a solution for Water Pump and Timing Cover Leaks.
2007 Prius Pkg 6
111k miles
Bought the car used from a dealer (non toyota) and doubt that the 90k service was done
Issues found by dealer (when I took it in for the steering shaft recall):
-Replace water pump (Found coolant leak) (for the gas engine)
-Reseal timing cover (Found engine oil seep)
2 weeks ago I filled my coolant as I saw it was a tiny bit low, but since then I have not seen the coolant levels drop. The Dealer is quoting me an absurd amount of money and I for one cannot afford that.
1987 Acura Integra AT with 158k... Water pump broke after 75k miles (in 18yr period)....
I am wondering what else should I have it done:
- thermostat
- oxygen sensor (is there one?)
- vacuum tubes (I hear that these fail due to age)
- anything else?
Are these near where they will be working on? Any other tips?
I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
I think I made a bad decision. Almost a year ago, I purchased my used Odyssey. I cannot remember if the timing belt had been changed. My check engine light came on, and the mechanic I took it to indicated it was the seal on the gas cap. He proceeded to tell me that I have an oil leak coming from the oil pump and that I should replace it and while I'm in there, I should replace the timing belt. There were a myriad of other things wrong with it, including broken engine mounts (which I can get fixed elsewhere from the man I purchased the car from) and some other things he said I can spread out and are basic maintenance, but I said to go forward with the oil pump and timing belt.
View 6 RepliesA mechanic has my car and replaced my timing belt and water pump....he said he had it running and then it sputtered out and wont start..i have never had a problem with this car. Just replacing before it went out.. he is missing something.
View 19 RepliesI was driving my 2005 RX 330 (138k miles) North on I-75 through Atlanta in rush hour traffic when the car completely died in the left hand lane w/ no shoulder. GDOT stopped six lanes of traffic to push us up and over a couple of hundred yards to a right shoulder. It was determined that due to a coolant leak from the water pump the timing belt malfunctioned and shredded.
I had heard that the water pump should be replaced during the 90k maintenance when the timing belt is changed, but my water pump was not replaced according to my maintenance records. I understand from reading a couple of posts that this isn't always required but that they do check the water pump. Is this correct? And if so should they have noticed that there was a potential problem?
My audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
08 Prius now at 120k. This is usually when I change the ICE water pump. I've been reading about when to change the pump, and it looks like opinions are all over the place. Generally though, consensus seems to be "change it when you see pink crystals on the pully." Is this correct?
120k is usually when I expect to drop a couple of thousand on preventative maintenance. Is this not true on the Prius? I knew running costs were low, but THIS LOW?