Golf IV R32 :: Voltage Drop From Inline Fuel Pump
Nov 27, 2014
So I moved my Walbro to the engine bay and reran my wires. Now I couldn't find the most detailed DIY to use for reference but I ran a 20A circuit breaker from terminal 75x under the dash. From there an inline relay that I believe is hooked up correctly.
So I noticed my fuel pump wasn't running while the car is running. It wasn't even priming so I started checking connections and what not. I then noticed that when my power wire is connected to the pump I only read about 4V on the pump. If I disconnect the line and test it with no load applied I get 12-13V steady.
I thought maybe my pump had gone bad but if I apply 12v straight to it it runs just fine.
So my question is WTF!? Electronically this doesn't make sense. Physically it makes no sense. I moved the wires from one side of the car to the other. Nothing changed. Why would I be losing so much voltage with the load applied?
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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Suspect I have a bad fuel pump. I checked for power thru the Inertia Switch. When I first energize the ignition I receive 12v after a couple seconds it drops to 7v. Is this normal? I checked at the connector to pump module and see the same reading. I swapped fuel pump relay and same readings. Just want to makew sure I dont have some other issue before doing pump.
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New to this site, my problem is on my 2003 4.6L fuel pump not working.My problem is that I am not getting voltage to contacts on pcm and fuel pump relays.
Getting volts to #30 fuse 30amps ok, voltage to pcm diode ok. Voltage on #30 on both relays(pcm & fuel) but I am loosing voltage across coils contacts #85 & #86, these makes hot #30 & #87 to make pump work. Inertia sw ok, Don't know if PCM is bad, ck fuse #2 ok 5 amps.
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I have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
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2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
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2004 W12 nearing 78k miles
Recently I've been experiencing a strange voltage drop when coming to a stop. The voltage gauge on the dash cluster indicates a solid 14v when in drive however when I come to stop (still in drive) the voltage will slowly drop to 12v suggesting the alternator is no longer charging the battery or something.
I've read other places that there can sometimes be issues with the battery controller, would this be a potential symptom of that? I've never had a dead battery or anything like that. I also installed HID fog lights recently which could be related to this issue, considering removing them entirely..
I'm also wondering if it could be related to a strange clicking noise coming from the engine bay somewhere, possibly my alternator is dying, plastic guides getting worn on the timing chain?
I'm hoping this is a simple case of needing the serpentine belt to be replaced and "slipping" when at a stop or something. Is there any way to examine the belt without moving the bumper to the service position?
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1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
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Diagnosing the following behavior with a '99 4Runner.
A couple months ago it was hard to start and the battery wasn't fully charging. It cranked but not very strongly and took a few times to turn over. The battery was old so I figured it was bad and replaced it.
Everything was fine for a couple weeks then it started doing nothing every other time I'd turn the key to start. All the dash lights and everything would come on but when I turned the key to start, it wouldn't even click, nothing. When it would crank, it started up fine. After a while it started taking 5-6 attempts to engage the starter and eventually like 20-30 and then wouldn't start at all.
I check the battery with a MM and it was reading 3.5v! I pulled the leads off and the voltage started to rise, after about an hour it was up to 8v. But when I put the cables on it immediately drops back to 3.5v. I pulled the fuses one by one, reconnecting the batt cables in between to see if I could isolate the circuit that was causing the drop but no luck. There were a few fuses that were bolted in that I couldn't get out though.
Anyway, there must be something that ties all this behavior together, maybe a bad relay or something?
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R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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So this morning I was in rush hour traffic, stopped at a traffic light when all of a sudden, I get the bong that signals "refuel" I have just under 1/2 tank, though. Glanced down at the fuel gauge to see it drop down to E and then a few moments later back up to just under 1/2. All the will car was running and seemed fine otherwise. The refuel sign stayed on though ...... even when switched off (while MFD was still on) Restarted the car and refuel message was no longer displayed. What could this be? fuel pump on the way out?
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Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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Recently I bought a aem fuel pump only to find out it was for a vr6... go figure. so i said no big deal took it off and put my old one back on. Everything worked fine before now but now that i have put the old fuel pump back in i am not getting any fuel at all.
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However, my fuel pump seems to be having a small issue intermittently. So I was wondering if you can upgrade the fuel pump without upgrading anything else? Is that acceptable or would it mess things up? I plan on getting the DTM kit in the future.
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I need to test the stock fuel pump. Best way of doing so?
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My R32's Fuel Pump Fuse keeps blowing. This started after driving my car in a bad rainstorm. I think water may have gotten in the door which could be causing the short, but I am not sure. This car has two fuel pumps as it's been modified. I know for a fact the main fuel pump works as it did prime after replacing the fuse (then letting the car sit over night then opening the door). Right after the fuel pump primed though, the fuse blew. I decided to replace the fuse and start the car. The car started and ran for maybe a second or two before the fuse blew. I took a look at this thread in regards to the fuel pump not working as I thought the fuel pump was dead till today. I was wondering what are the possible problems that could be causing the fuse to blow? Could it be the relay? Could it be the switch in the door shorting? Also, where would I find the relay? I know it's under the dash, but is it under the panel on the passenger side or driver side?
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I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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