Golf IV R32 :: Vibration On The Freeway And At Different RMPs
Jan 25, 2012
I have had this vibration on the freeway and at different RPMs in different gears and i can figure out the vibrations... its mainly coming from my gas pedal... clutch and brake pedal are usually fine and the steering wheel is alright i guess.
I replaced my dog-bone mount because it was F'd up and got my wheels balanced so those two are eliminated. i know my tires have some camber wear but i feel like it wouldn't be intermittent if that were the case. I am stumped and I hate playing the game where i just replace everything hoping to fix the problem...
Car has 104k miles
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But I have noticed over the past week of driving, whenever the RPMs are around 1000-2000, it is very hard for me to pick up speed, and I can feel a little bit of a rumble/vibration through the steering wheel. So...
If I feather the gas, the RPM increases slightly and you can hear/feel the engine rumble/vibrate. The speed doesn't really increase...
If I hit the gas more than 1/2 way down, turbo kicks in and the car shoots forward.
Is this normal? I find it very hard to add a little bit of acceleration if I feather it, the engine seems to be resisting it, if I hit it any harder, the turbo kicks in around 2500 RPMs. It almost feels as if it is in too high of a gear and the engine has a hard time accelerating a little bit...This is around ~40-60KM/hr
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Been really busy lately and havent worked on car. Any way it's been about two months after lowering on hpa shs coils. Rides great but I have had the two following observations.
1. When I'm on the freeway at above 65 a big increase in vibration mostly in the steering wheel. I also rotated tires front to back as they are directional at the same time.
2. When I first set off there is a clunking/adjusting sound from the front right side. It seems to be connected with the rotation of the tire. Goes away as I drive down the block.
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My problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
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I have a weird vibration only at freeway speeds. It's a vibration that lasts 3 seconds but are consistently 2-3 seconds apart. It's a very suttle vibration and can be felt at my feet and slightly on the wheel. My passengers can feel it if I mention it. The key thing about the vibration it's starts and goes away the starts and goes away?
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I have a 2004 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4 V8 SuperCab. Back in February I lifted my truck with 2.5in coil spacer adapters, out back add a leafs 2-3in. Now I can't say for sure it stated then, but for a while now I have an intermittent freeway vibration. Typically around 70-75mph it is at it peak when it does it. Other times it can be very smooth. The vibration is like an oscillation that you can feel in the body. Not much felt in the steering wheel. The vibration can start and stop any time and last for any amount of time, there is no common point for when it starts and stops. Right or left turns does not cause it to start or stop, sometimes it feels like big bumps will start or stop it but not all the time.
I have a rearview aftermarket camera, I took it off and mounted it several locations to view tires. The fronts are steady while at freeway speed and with the vibration.
After tie rods were changed and no play in any suspension/steering parts, the truck has been aligned several times. Tires are new and have been balanced twice. The driveshaft is new (new U-Joints, shaft and slip yoke) and is balanced, which it did improve the vibration but not perfect. The rear brakes have been inspected, no sign of overheating on the drum or the shoes. The lever is all the way back. So I don't believe it is it, although I did not fully disconnect the cabling. If it was the brakes why would it be intermittent? I had a shop replace all bearings in the rear axle, due to the pinon bearing noise. I saw the TSB's already on vibrations and none conform to my situation. The hubs have been checked, with the engine on they are unlocked.
So as I stated I can't say for sure it started after the lift but maybe due to the lift the differential pinion angle to driveshaft and to the transfer case is too high. Maybe I need some pinion shims. But I haven't heard of anything else needed to do this after a 2-3in lift. I'm getting tired of chasing this vibration.
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After driving for 30 minutes on the freeway, my Sonoma develops a high freq vibration that seems to increase after it starts. lessens a little as I slow, but does not go away until after the car has been parked for a while, but not as noticeable under about 30.. I have experienced this the last three days on my commute to and from work. Did have the breaks checked. I did have a clunk sound when i released the brakes at a stop, but that went away after the first brake check where they did not find anything, but just cleaned out the dust and readjusted. The vibe is pretty strong and makes me nervous to drive.
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I have a 2004 chevy malibu LT V6. Got it in 2009 from a dealership near where I live. During the road test I did not notice the vibration, may be because I did not drive it on a freeway. Point to be noted that it came with 2 brand new front tires. I called the dealership and they did balanced the wheels for free of charge. But the problem did not go away. This time I took my car to pepboys for wheel balancing. It is better now but I still feel the vibration on the wheel @ the speed of 60 or over. I have done wheel balancing and replaced back tires. Problem still remains. I own some other cars and they don't have this issue.
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I have a 2002 4Runner that has recently developed a vibration at freeway speeds. I purchased new tires about two months before the vibration started. I have been back to the place where I bought my tires and the assure me that they are balanced.
I have been dealing with this problem for the past couple of months and have been getting nowhere. When I took my 4Runner into the dealership to get the lower ball joint replaced I spoke with the service folks about the vibration problem and all I got in response was "we've never heard of that before".
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I have been trying to chase down a whirling noise that follows vehicle speed since I bought the truck in my sig in Oct. The noise happens whether or not the hubs are free or locked so I don't think it is the front needle bearings. I just changed the transfer case fluid over to Mobile 1 Syn. and there was no change in the noise. I also changed the front pads, rotors, slide pins and calipers a few weeks ago and that didn't have an effect on the noise either. Today I took the truck for a ride and I'm not sure but it seems almost like the noise is a bit louder! And I noticed that if I hit the brakes firmly, harder than a normal stop the noise gets significantly quieter and if I release them again the noise goes right back to normal. This has got me stumped...
Along with this noise, I have a vibration on the freeway that gets worse around 55 and lets off around 61. Its worse at some speeds and better at others. Thinking the two were related I pulled the rear drive shaft and checked the u-joints and the carrier bearing for play. The carrier bearing doesn't have any real play but there is quite a bit of slop, ability to turn back and forth, where the driveshaft comes out of the transfer case. All but one of the u-joint cups were fine. The bad one isn't even too bad just the rubber seal around it is a little off, there is still grease in it and the needle bearings seem fine.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
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Getting a metallic rattling sound between 2.4 and 3k rpms under load? It can't be reproduced by just revving however, I can reproduce this easily while holding it in gear with the triptronic and accelerating in that rpm range. I want to say it sounds like a exhaust or heatshield rattle but it's coming from the front the car, like behind the firewall or directly below me. I took it to the dealer and of course, in a typical dealer fashion, they cannot hear it.
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I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
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On my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
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CAR: 2013 VW GTI
MILES: 645 (I HAVEN'T EVEN BROKEN IT IN YET AND I STILL DRIVE IT UNDER 3)
STORY: As I was driving on the freeway, I tried to press down on the clutch to change gears (from forth to fifth), but my clutch wouldn't move at all; it was like stepping on a rock. So my clutch wasn't engaging and I couldn't do anything, but I managed to pulled off the freeway and I parked my car in the first neighborhood that I saw. By the time I had parked my car, my clutch was smoking profusely. I called VW Road Side and had my car towed to the dealership. They call me the next day to tell me that my clutch was completely burnt out, but there's no signs of harsh driving. They stated that it might be a defect (loose screw, bearing, etc).
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It was raining out pretty good last night. I just got my car unitronic tuned, idk if this has anything to do with it, but just to add some info.
I was driving home, about an hour drive last night, and my car would cut the power for a second, then come back, then cut out again. Then my battery light came on and the car. I pulled over and let my car sit for a minute then finished the drive home...
It cut in and out another time or two before I got home.
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I just recently got a 2004 r32 and it came with almost brand new rotors/pads, at most 500 miles on them. I just realized the other day that when driving freeway speeds, about 70-80 and braking down to 40-50 the entire cabin shakes.
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My 2005 GTI has been decelerating while I'm driving on a certain section of the freeway. It's a steady incline for about 1/2 a mile, the altitude changes (my ears tend to pop). The car starts to decelerate, I take my foot off the pedal for a couple of seconds and then press the accelerator and it's usually fine.
However, a couple of weeks ago it totally stalled out on the freeway, it restarted fine. I took it into the shop the next day, my mechanic is not 100% sure what the problem is, he replaced the crankshaft sensor. Turns out it's not the source of the problem, I am still decelerating on the freeway. I had a tune-up and new battery installed a month ago, so I don't know what the problem is.
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So I drove 400 miles today and when I was just about home I heard a grind when I applied the brakes on the freeway. Well I did a walk around the car to check all the pads and noticed my rear pads are almost gone. I'm not used to having the rear brakes implemented in so much of my daily driving, with the TCS and all.
To make it easy I'd like to keep all four corners on the same brake setup, I'm just not sure what is ideal on this car. I know OEM is gonna be said, but I upgraded my front pads to Hawk HPS'.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
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So I was driving on the freeway and i hit a somewhat small bump in the road. I noticed that my ESP light flashed then turned off. This is normal correct?
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