Driving home from work yesterday I noticed my car started having the vibration on and off during my commute. Traffic most of the time so I could feel it just reving the car up a bit. It happens going up from 600-1200 and back down I can feel it too.
View 2 RepliesWhen I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
I bought a 2005 wagon from a local dealer with 21K miles, the 1.8T, an automatic and 4mo. It was certified and still has 2 yrs and 24K miles on the warranty.
Anyway, I there is a rattle/rumble/vibration anytime the engine is at about 1200 RPM. I usually happens on small inclines, and doesn't matter if you are decelerating through 1200 or accelerating through it is makes the noise. I can get it to sustain itself if i keep it at 1200 on the gas or on the brake.
I am hoping it is just a heat shield that rattles at the certain frequency the engine makes at 1200, but I don't know. It is kind of right at that point where the transmission engages and disengages, torque converter?
So over the past view days I have been hearing some sort of light squealing noise coming from my car during my daily commute. At first I though it was wind noise or something stuck in the grill of the bumper. When I looked the car over this morning, I didn't see any plastic or something caught in the grill to be causing the noise. Then I thought maybe its my wheels, brakes, or rotors but found out it wasn't that after hearing the noise stopped at a stop light. I did a few revs and heard slight squeal coming from the engine bay.
So I don't really know what to look for now. The sound is fairly faint, but a high pitch squeal.
I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
After about a 45 minute drive yesterday the EPC light came on, idle went up to 1200 rpm's and when I turned off the car it wouldn't turn on, just leaving the ignition for about 5-7 seconds is when the car finally started.
Today, again after a 45 minute drive the EPC light came on again, same symptoms, except that the car stalled and I had to turn the ignition again about 5-7 seconds for it to start. No other light is on, and the car would start fine after about half an hour rest with no EPC light.
Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
It is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
Vehicle: 2006 Mk IV Golf 2.0 GLS With 82766 mi
Back story: I purchased the vehicle from my dad who did regular maintenance except that somehow spark plugs and wires slipped through the cracks until now. A few months ago (while I was in training) it apparently started showing CEL but the few times it came on, my wife said it just disappeared. Two weeks ago, it came on again and I had the code read which came back as P0420. I took it in and they replaced the rear cat after which it ran well for a few days. Then the CEL came on again but went off before I could get out in the shop. This weekend I went ahead and changed the oil and may have over filled it slightly. The next day I went to change the spark plugs and after changing 4, 1, 3 it started to miss fire in 4 and 1. I reset both spark plugs and got 4 firing again, but 1 remained bad. With a friend I determined there was a weak spark in 1 and changed the wire but no change.
Current situation: As it stands now, it's still miss firing. The worst seems to be between 1200- 1800 rpm and if I keep it above there the light will stop flashing and even turn off on some cases. I've read that heart mixed with moisture(I just moved from AZ to WA) can lead to a cracked coil pack or that the injectors can go bad. Should I just take it to vw specialist?
I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
I have a 2003 golf 1.8t and the car shakes when launching from a stop. it shakes as long as the rpm is below about 1200. i have an o2 b1 s1 error. also the car is not performing well and seems like it doesn't have enough boost although the boost is reaching its max amount. the car is mapped at 1.3 bar. so does the o2 sensor cause such issues or is it something else ??
View 7 RepliesIt started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesSo here is my delima. i currently own a prius and looking to replace my wife's vehicle. I thought maybe a EV would be great for a commuter. Problem is i have a long commute
45 miles to work.
i could probably charge at work all day(8am-5:30pm)
then leave from there to school and then home. which is 69-71 miles. <-- yikes.
I'm relatively new with my 2011 Prius. I've been averaging about 53.6 mpg, but I feel as if I can do better. I've set 54 mpg as this "magic number" that I'm aspiring to, but if I ever reach that, the number will probably rise to 55 and so on ... (As an aside, if I just set the cruise control while on the commute I'm about to describe, I get the same mileage as I do when I'm working on hypermiling, so I don't know if it's worth the effort with this route).
My daily commute is around 15 miles. About half of this is a hilly and curvy road. The PSL on that portion is 55 mph, and it is a two-lane (one lane in each direction) road. At least one of the hills are so steep that if I DWL, I'll lose between 15 to 20 mph from the bottom to the top; that's with the HSI "pegged" right before the power section of the line. I can maintain speed, or at least lose less, if I go into the power area. Additionally, there are several curves at the bottom of the hills where I must brake down to around 40 mph to safely negotiate the curve.
Finally, it is well-trafficked road as well, so, while observing the speed limit, I may have 10 cars piled up behind me, which makes me nervous.
I have an 07 with 81.5K miles. Just a few weeks ago I've noticed a "rumbling" sound when starting the car in the morning before my AM commute. To me it sounds like an exhaust issue. This sound is becoming more frequent and now occurs most of the time while I drive. The volume has not increased, only frequency. The engine sounds ok, and no lights or indicators are showing.
MPG performance is down from 45-50MPG to about 40MPG but I think this may be because it's been extremely cold here lately and maybe the gasoline bladder has shrunk? Anyways, what this could be? If it's an exhaust issue could it require replacing the entire exhaust system because it's a hybrid (one mechanic friend I have said this might be the case)? Could it be something as simple as getting a new muffler?
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport and the Check Gauges Light has come on, it usually happens after during my commute and I have been on the freeway for about 10 minutes, I exit and at the first stoplight it comes on. Doesn't come on in normal around town driving, just in that situation each day. I took it in to my mechanic and twice and it still comes on, they said they replaced the oil pump. Anyway, could it be that the gauge light has to be reset? I don't see any leak after two days on the street now. I am at my wits end, before I take it to different mechanic, I'd like to see what the boards say.
View 3 RepliesWhen I first bought the car I was resetting the trip/mpg every day and getting a daily reading. Then I started to realize that wasn't accurate as a per tank reading. So now I judge my weekly trip/mpg. Currently I am getting 57-59 mpg on the MFD(I do not have a scangauge yet) - so i guess that would equal 54-57 actual.
My commute is 43 miles one way. half of it is mixed city driving a mile of low speed out of my neighborhood to a 55 mph with two 2 mile 35 mph zones and then the second half is interstate.
I have been working on keeping the SOC high for the 55 mph so that i can most of the time slip in and out of high speed "stealth" mode. Usually with the MFD around 69-75? and not drop speed too quickly. maybe a mph per 2 miles depending on the grade.
I try the pulse and glide in the 35 mph zones. coast in, then glide as far as I can and pulse back up. I have been playing with a couple ways,
OPTION 1: use in electric only-takes longer and kills SOC.
OPTION 2: Pulse hard into el+ICE and its crap mpg for a small amount of time. Pulse gently into ICE and decent mpg for a little longer amount of time.
I have a 35 mile (70 round trip) commute to work, all highway. I do some in town driving as well, but mainly the commuting. The price of gas is getting higher and I was thinking of getting a hybrid, but wonder if that is the best choice for my type of commute ? I drive a Honda CRV (04) which I love but maybe something smaller like a Civic would be better. I need room to occasionally put my 3 kids and hubby in and I want to feel safe in the snow.
View 13 RepliesMy 1999 BMW 3 series, with 112K, full synthetic oil and a 5 speed transmission does great, except for one minor issue. About once a week, when the motor is warm, it dies. Tonight after driving it about 20 minutes on the highway I came to our hill, put it in 1st gear to come up (like always), and then came to the flat part where I put it in neutral to coast the few feet into our driveway. The car responded by idling up to about 1200 RPM, and then dying. It always starts right up the 1st time (even after sitting for 2 weeks), and it is absolutely otherwise reliable. My initial thoughts were something with the idle control valve?
View 1 RepliesSo here's my problem; my 05 Excursion has a v10 and now it does not idle correctly. At a stop sign and in gear it idles anywhere between 900 to 1200 rpms. Normally it should be idling around 750. I just noticed this as I had to apply more brake pressure to keep from driving through an intersection. Since this has happened I have changed the air filter and fuel filter. Do you think I need a computer reset, or something else?
View 14 RepliesI just bought 2011 Camry 23K miles, L4 engine and 6 sp auto trans. Experienced strange downshifting - when slowing down the tranny shifts down, so the RPM jumps from about 900 to 1,200 and the cycle repeats for the next gear. Feels almost like the car is getting ready for the (possible) acceleration. It mostly happens when I am coasting, not when I am breaking. I already disconnected battery for the few hours to reset transmission shifting points memory.
I have seen "transmission flare up" tread about V6 engine + 6 sp tran combination, but it is not it.
I also have 2009 Camry with 5 speed 170K miles, and it shifts so nice you could not tell what gear you are on; and have 2009 Highlander.