Golf IV R32 :: Vibrates When Going Through Puddle
Sep 5, 2012
A few weeks ago I was driving in the rain. On a section of I-287, there were quite a bit of puddles because it was downpouring. All of a sudden the car got much louder than usual when I'd accelerate and the entire car would vibrate. I had never experienced anything like this so I pulled over thinking I had a flat tire. This was not the case... and I got soaked haha Never figured out what it was. Just thought it was some random thing.
Anyway, last night I was driving home and in the same section of road, the car acted up in the same exact manner. It was vibrating enough to make change in my cupholder jitter around! This time, I noticed that there were only puddles on the driver side of the car though so I figured I'd experiment.
On the rest of the way home, I went through some puddles on the passenger side and found that they did not cause this to happen but when I went through puddle that were on the driver side of the car, it'd happen everytime for at least a few seconds before the car returns to normal.
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II noticed some oil spots in my driveway and wasn't sure if it was my car, so I put cardboard down and a couple hours later there was oil on it! I put the car up on ramps and there was oil all over the bottom of the oil pan, transmission and you could see where oil had at one point ran down from the top of block where the transmission mounts, but it wasn't fresh like everything else. Also, the diverter valve was covered in oil. I do have a forge dv spacer and the upgraded diverter valve installed and was wondering if this could be the source. The weird thing is that there is no trail that I can see from the diverter valve area to the oil that has collected on the bottom of the engine.
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Mon. Dec. 12 Cincinnati had record 1.95" rain. I hit a puddle (which I later found out was 1' deep) with my 2011 TDI. A wave of water came up over hood & turbocharger sucked it into the engine. Stalled out, wouldn't restart. Towed to dealer, they said have to replace engine. Ins. Adjuster saw that, other water damage, totaled car. Santa gave me a 2012 red Golf TDI.
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Trying to figure out what ELSE it could be.
Car just rolled 60K. Only odd thing going on is that the "puddle light" down in the corner of the driver's door will not come on. Ever. Bulb is okay. It won't even come on when the passenger door is opened, which I totally don't get. I mean, if the driver's door lock is toast, what's going on with that? My logic tells me that if the driver's door lock is the cause here, opening the other door would light that light.
No weird alarm behavior, no re-locking after 30 seconds or whatever it is (as though after unlocking with remote that door has not been opened), no missing fuel-pump-priming whirr. The only other thing I've noticed is that after opening the driver's door, all the other interior lights dim in about 25 seconds, rather than however many it is after the passenger door is opened (a bit longer).
My old (MkIV) GTI had the driver's door lock check out when the car was about 5 years old. But it had alarming and locking issues, which are more the classic symptoms.
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I drive a manual 2001 vr6 jetta. I drove through a huge puddle on accident. It was still pouring and I couldn't see it, plus I've never seen this section of road flood before. Anyway my car is lowered and I have a CAI. I sucked up water, hydrolocked the car and it bogged down and died.
The next day I got it towed home, took out the plugs and did an oil change(water came out for about 5 seconds followed by the oil) and got a new air filter. I then cranked the engine blowing most of the water out of my cylinders then sprayed starter fluid in the cylinders let it sit for about an hour and cranked again. Put it all back together started it up and it sounded fine. I just let it idle until it got to running temp then shut it off. Came out the next morning started it up let it idle to running temp again shut it off then went to pull the drain plug to see if I could get anymore water out and all I saw was cappuccino colored oil. So I did another oil change and so far it has stayed a nice golden amber color.
Everything seems to be fine other than my EPC light is on. My ASR light is on too right from startup and pushing the button does nothing. I also have a CEL for emissions workshop(before this instance) but that's just an O2 sensor. And lastly it's been hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.
I don't have any problems with acceleration or surging idle or bogging down. The only things I actually notice are the trans issue and not being able to turn on and off my ASR.
Could I have water in the trans? What can I do to fix this? I was planning on doing a fluid change. I'm completely lost with the ASR problem. Everything I've read so far I don't fit in the norm of problems. EPC? No symptoms at all just a light.
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I walked out to my car and there was a big puddle of tran fluid under driver side front. I think it might be from the drain plug.
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I have a problem with that, when i'm in a low height with my car, i turn right and the hole car vibrates, like rubbing in the axle, its no heating the frame, both sides are new, i change because of that, check everything, also change engine mount, top mounts are camber plates, running bags over coil, and all suspension its new. only part thats original are the front bearings, can be the bearings?
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I have a mk4 gti vr6 just lowered on GT street performance couplers , looks great but now i have vibration when I'm turning. Why?
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I've got 66,000 miles on my R32 and I notice that on certain highway surfaces my steering wheel is beginning to vibrate at around 70mph.
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When I turn my AC on nothing happens. I get no air, hot or cold coming out of the vents on settings 1, 2, and 3. Then when i turn it to 4 cold air blasts out. It also gets very loud and vibrates the entire car when I'm idling.
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A lot of sections of the highway I frequently use is now repaved. Even on smooth looking highway sections, I feel vibration (bumping feel) from the seat and/or floor (also a little from steering). My hip and/or legs feel vibration.
I road force balanced wheels once, and then ordinarily balanced once again. I still feel vibration. I drove the same highway with 2012 Hyundai Veloster and 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback. With those cars, the drive is smooth (no vibration) on smooth looking highway.
2012 Golf TDI is my first car with sports suspension.
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I have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
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My car now vibrates when slowing down and it only happens between 2-2.5k rpms! Also now the car has been idling higher at a standstill. The car will be fine then it will rev up to 1k.
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I have vibration in my 2012 Golf R at highway speeds. I noticed it right when I drove it off the lot. First I thought it's because the tires had a flat spot from the car sitting a few months on the lot, but it persisted.
The steering wheel vibrates very slightly and I can see the front passenger seat vibrating as well. I know it's not normal. I checked my tire pressures and they are all at 41psi as per the door sticker.
Messed up factory rim/tire balance in the R? How about hub or driveshaft imbalance?
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If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
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I have a 2011 GTI with about 30k miles on it.... A couple thousand miles/couple months ago I hit a pothole on the highway.... it was a very sharp impact... the sidewall of the tire blistered and the rim was bent as well.... I got new tires and the rim fixed but it still feels like there is something wrong
During the 30k mile service at the dealer I brought it up and they balanced the wheels but didn't see anything wrong... I've had it balanced/aligned a few times since but it doesn't correct the issue... neither the tire shop nor the dealer was able to see anything blatantly wrong
It feels like something is "loose" and the car vibrates mildly at a high frequency... not just in the steering wheel... the vibration is mostly noticeably at higher speeds but the "looseness" can be felt at just about any speed...
At this point I've pretty much ruled out balance and alignment so what else could it be? Wheel bearing? Control arm bushing? Tie rod? Bent Axle? Steering collar?
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I switched my front rotors 4 times in the last 4 years.
I know you probably thinking its the driver. I've owned the car since 2012 and have only put on 46000 kms.
The rotors vibrate and have that weird stop and go hesitation when braking.
Is it simply OEM or nothing?
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Automatic 1998 Golf 4 1.8L 20V shakes so badly to a point where the engine stops totally when I put it on reverse,and on drive sometimes. What might be causing this.. I recently replaced the gearbox oil with a new one..the car was fine before this change of gear box oil
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta IV 1.8T R-line. The engine shakes/vibrates at Idle and when I drive.
Also when if I drive at high speeds when I stopped the engine just switches off when idling.
What could be the cause?
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