Golf IV R32 :: Upgrade Stock Suspension / Adding Adjustable Rear Control Arms To Eliminate Tire Wear
Nov 30, 2012
So my strut mounts are shot and I wanted to add adjustable rear control arms to eliminate tire wear. So thinking of going with Bilstein HD's with the stock springs. Oh and BTW want to keep stock ride height since it is my daily. The only option I would consider for springs would be the euro version of the stock springs.
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I have Bluewater adjustable control arms, they have been on the car for about 22 months, and for the last few weeks they have been squeaking and creaking like a bastard, over any imperfection in the road.
We had the car up on the lift, and twisted the control arms, and it's definitely coming from there. I'm not the best mechanic in the world, pretty far from it, so is there a way to remedy this without replacing them? It sounds like I'm fornicating in a 1986 Caprice every time I hit a bump.
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I just had the tie rods replaced and a front end alignment on my VW Golf. The tires that were on the front were moved to the back because of some wear on the inside edge. The tires currently on the front look brand new, but the car pulls to the right more than it did before I had any of the work done. The place where I got the work done told me I would need to replace the two tires with wear but they are still in mostly good condition. They are telling me now the pulling is because the tires on the rear have wear. Can wear on rear tires really cause my car to pull so significantly to the right? The tires are only two years old. I do not want to replace them yet. The car front wheel drive.
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i just got a 2008 FEH 100K paid 11500 out the door 12800 is that a good deal? everything is clean. It has the upgraded sound system but i noticed that some feh have the mpg displayed on the screen it look like the feh with navigation not sure if this is seperate from nav or just part of touch screen. in any case is it possible to just install the stock dvd/nav stereo to get the mpg avg screen? if so is ther a guide
also is there a good read around here for new feh owners? looking to get the most mpg out of this ride.
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Ive seen this also on some 4runners. Ive had several vehicles many years old with no rust underneath at all and I check today and sure enough, some rust on the rear axle and in front suspension arms. I checked the lexus warranty and it is unclear whether this is covered.
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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I am in my new gti, owned for 6 days, waiting for a tow truck. I was driving down the freeway when it felt like I blew a tire. I pull over to the side of the road and none of the tires are flat. I look under the car and a piece of the rear suspension has come loose and jamed itself in front of the tire. Its a long peice of metal with a hook on the end.
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24,000 miles, car is totally stock.
Both of my front tires have the cords hanging on on the extreme inside at a really odd angle.
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So on my wives Prius which is an 2007 the rear tires are wearing more greatly on the insides that the outsides and they are wearing evenly on both the rear left and rear right inside. So not one is more worn than the other..
The tires are heavily worn, with that said the car rides extremely bumpy to the point the entire car is shaking on the freeway at 75 mph or higher. So much so it induces motion sickness which is odd for me. So also besides the alignment question, what else could be causing the insane amount of bumpiness? I balanced and rotated them yesterday but that didn't solve the issue.
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Having issues with excessive front tire wear? I have had the alignment checked by two VW garages and a third party garage and all of them confirm that the alignment is good.
The VW garage also confirmed that as far as they can see there is no suspension issues, but the excessive wear on the front tires indicates that something is wrong.
I have owned the car since new in 2008 so know it has a clean history no accidents.
Both front tires look like this.....
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I noticed the passenger front tire wearing on the inside, I have no camber plates. Presuming alignment is still good could this be from a worn strut mount?
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Stock rear suspension F250s. Can measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame? My truck has just lift springs with no blocks and I want to know what size lift they are. I'm also considering switching back to stock springs because the lift springs ride like crap.
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my (mostly) stock suspension is squeaking at 45k and overall is a bit louder than it was. I do have VWR F&R sways installed as well as the tyrolsport deadset subframe bolts, but everything else is stock. I was considering the VWR springs but have held off so far...
Objective: maintain ride comfort while getting better performance than stock. Ride comfort is key as I travel on quite a few harsh roads out here in the Northeast. I was fairly happy with stock as is was lower/stiffer than the stock GTI suspension that I was accustomed to. For the most part, I actually like the GTI's comfier ride better in commuting/road trip scenarios (which is the bulk of my driving). Bottom line, I want something durable, comfortable, and better handling than stock.
At 45k should I replace the struts as well?Could the squeaking be from something other than strut mounts? Are there coil-overs that would achieve my objective?
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So I think I've decided to look for coilovers, rather than upgraded wheels this year. Which means I need to throw some NT05s on the stock R wheels. Obv the stock width is 225/40R18. How wide can I go before it rubs? I'm certain I can't do 245, is 235 an option? The car will go on the track, so trying to find some contact surface.
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I want to disconnect a wire to turn off the tire warning light. I've heard several wire options behind the glove compartment but it's confusing. Any easier clearer answer as to which wire is the right one?
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My car has developed a strange squeak from the front suspension when going over large bumps or speed bumps. Most of the time it only happens when i hit a speed bump with both tires hitting at the same time. It is a slow squeak not very high pitched but shouldn't be happening on a car with stock suspension components and less than 12,000 miles.
Why my car would be doing this, under normal driving conditions i don't hear any sounds. Its just when i go over speed bumps and large bumps on the road. It is also only from the front suspension.
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The 2010 JSW si identical to VW Golf MkVI in respect of interior and controls. Unfortunately TDI trim is not available with dual zone climatronic - I ended up with manual Climatic control.
I compared the climatic and climatronic panels for MkVI and found out that the back side connectors looks compatible - the only difference is that Manual Climatic has dummy data communication port (I checked it physically myself after dismantling the panel) and has only one control output socket (The climatronic panel has two exactly the same identical sockets - dual zone control I suppose).
A simple swap of other control panels will work to provide single zone automatic operation of air condition system in my 2010 VW JSW TDI?
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1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
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Is there any way to add Bluetooth to the stock 2000 Ex Radio?
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I am going to start on the control arms on my 04 V6 Solara this afternoon since the bushings are beyond gone.I have done control arms on my 98 corolla but i didnt have to deal with the stupid motor mounts being in the way.I have done a search and it seems(if i have this right)that i need to
1.Remove Dog Bone
2.Loosen right and left side motor mounts but dont remove the bolts.
3.Jack up the engine just enough to get a wrench on the hidden bolts on each side.
Am i missing anything?I already have the Mevotech control arms with new ball joints already attached.I plan on renting a ball joint removal tool from autozone.
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I have been told by a couple of mechanics that the bushings on the lower control arms on my 95 Camry are worn. They recommend replacement of the lower control arms and ball joints.Is this a repair I can do myself? I have reasonable mechanical competency. I figure that I will have to rent a tool at the auto parts store for the ball joint, remove a few nuts and bolts, and bring the car in for an alignment once I get the parts installed.Now my wife is adamantly against me doing this myself. She thinks that I am going to mess this up, the parts will fail at high speeds, and I will die in a fiery crash. She apparently has more confidence in the repair shop grease monkey than her engineer husband. So is she right? Is this a repair which is best left to the shop?
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