I've had this happen a couple of times since winter. The engine will rev high around 2000 rpm then come down back to normal idle speed.
I've recently changed out all ignition coils so I know it's not that.
My girlfriend has a 2004 Prius with the nav kit and has been having some rather odd issues as of late, of which seemed to have started after she hit an animal. The gas engine in her car seems to be turning on right away when she turns the car on. The engine also sounds quite loud, almost as if it is revving. Her gas mileage has also dropped considerably, from 45-ish down to around 33 mpg. Also, upon stopping, the mileage gauge on her nav screen doesn't immediately go to 99. Instead it sits around in the 40s for a while before jumping up to 99.
Now, she mentioned this to the tech at the dealer when she finally went to get the recall done on her water pump, but the guy said it drove fine and threw no codes. She then took it to another shop who said it threw a P3190 code, but he had never seen this issue and wouldn't know how to fix it.
The only thing I could find while searching around (mainly on this forum) was that it could be a problem with the electric throttle body. The throttle body seems to make sense to me, but she isn't totally convinced. She also has a 200+ mile trip coming up for the holiday season and it would be nice to fix the issue before that.
Recently, when I start my Golf 2.5 DSG it has been revving a little loud or rough. It usually revs at under 1k at idle, but when starting up it revs at around 1500 until I put it in drive and release the footbrake.
View 10 Repliesi did have the mech recall done a while back. lately, on several occasions, when i've hit the pedal to the floor "fast", i would get a high rev to 3-4k with the car not moving any faster and then after the revs come back to 1-2k the car would take off like it should. the perfect example of this would be when i wanted to change lanes or pass someone on the freeway.
the car accelerates normally when i am depressing the pedal incrementally and i haven't seen the same type of thing during any other situation. i've had the car for a year and hadn't really noticed this prior to recent driving.
I just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.
I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.
I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...
Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Malibu LTZ and last week I noticed a revving noise like a fan or something whenever I accelerated from a stop and turned left. Continues throughout the turn and stops when going straight. Doesn't happen on a right turn. Also happens on a windy road when turning left more sharply than just a gradual turn.
Also just noticed this in stop and go traffic. When accelerating slightly and letting off there will be a short grinding/clicking noise that lasts 2-3 seconds or sometimes until I hit the accelerator again.
I changed the fuel filter. I can hear the pump going and the filters getting gas to it. The car is turning over but it just isn't starting I cannot think of what else it might be and it is stressing me out a ton.
2002 buick rendevous...
My front left tire is rubbing to the point where I can feel it in the steering wheel slightly slowing the car down. This happens only going over about 40-50 and only when i turn the steering wheel like an inch to the left. To better clarify it doesn't rub while turning left going down a slope.
View 2 RepliesI've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
I called around to a few mechanics but they all want to see the car and run the computer codes on it before they even tell me what's wrong with it; which I am loathe to do just yet because I don't want them to charge me an extra $100 for a diagnostic for a repair I may not even get done with that mechanic. Meanwhile I'm driving around feeling like I should put my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to gain speed.
In the research I've done online, I've seen that it may be an issue with the throttle wire or some other wiring issue.
I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
1998 Honda CRV ... Replaced the AC compressor. AC is cold only when the engine is revving above certain rpm. When at a stop, the air is warm...but if I put it into neutral and rev the engine to, let's say, 2000+ rpm, AC gets colder....or when I am driving, obviously. I know everyone is gonna say something about the condenser fan but would it be the fan given above circumstances?
View 16 RepliesI just brought my 2011 Prius to the dealership today after the check engine light came on. Last night, the car was intermittently revving at a high level, but otherwise the car as running fine. The service technician was saying it was the VSV valve that was intermittently sticking. I was told that there was a software update on this valve that might take care of the problem; I asked about the lifespan for the valve, but he had no information about that. I told him to just do the software update, but now I'm wondering if I should also replace the valve.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Subaru Forester that I bought used. It has 37,000 miles on it. When I drive at high altitudes, the rpms rev up, the car slows down, sounds terrible. Why is this and what can be done?
View 3 RepliesI have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
I have a 99 tacoma with a 3.4 L automatic with 160,000 miles. For the past year my truck will idle rough and quit after revving high. After driving around for a few min its fine until I accelerate hard and get it up to about 4 to 5 thousand rpms. I recently changed the timing belt and accidentally got it about two teeth off. While it was like that, it didnt have much power and it was very loud, but it didnt have the problem. Once I fixed it and got it timed right it started having the problem again.
View 1 RepliesI'm rolling down the freeway in stop and go traffic, so I have been EV stacking. Clicked from EV to HV several times over the course of 5 minutes. Then, I hear this fairly high pitched revving sound - even and constant rev up, not rev/idle/rev. I thought it was the truck next to me, so I turn down the radio and away from the truck but it happened again. I would stomp on the gas for a moment, and it would subside - not completely because it would start doing it again very soon. I'm not accelerating, but it would be like throwing it into neutral and revving. When I come to a complete stop, it would not go to EV - the light isn't on like when it is warming up the ICE.
My exit was coming up soon, so I would alternate pumping the brake and gas to get it to stop. Only when I was at the light that I powered off the car to reboot. Since then, it did not recur. Strange... Perhaps related, but I doubt it - I had bumped into a vehicle around 3-4 mph the day before. I was... drowsy.
I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
View 5 RepliesMy oil pressure had been dropping to 0 for a while. After searching the internet, I replaced the oil sending unit. This seemed to fix the issue for a while - until I was going up some hills, and the engine began revving really high, and the oil pressure once again dropped to 0. I then heard some noise from the engine, so I pulled over and turned it off. I had it towed to a garage, and told the tow driver to NOT start the car, because I thought the oil pump was out, and so no oil was getting to the engine.
I then called the garage, and told them it was coming in, and NOT to start it, because the engine was not getting oil, and I thought oil pump might be bad. They called me back an hour later to tell me they had added some oil and started it, and the engine was gone.
First question, is would a good garage have tried starting the car with the information they had? My expectation was that they would have tried to check things out without starting it.
Second, should I try to replace the oil pump and see if the car starts?
Make: dodge
Model: durango
Model Year: 2000
Odometer Mileage: 205,000
Amount of oil consumed between oil changes: 1 qt
Frequency of oil changes, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time: 6months, 5000 miles
Oil level was checked once every one to two weeks.
I have a 95 Mercury Villager that didn't pass inspection. I put SeaFoam in it before inspection to clean the engine. Now I have been told that it may have caused gunk to loosen up and that I need to run out all of the gas in it and then fill it up and run it at high speeds for a period of time on the highway before I try to get it re-inspected. Since it didn't pass inspection I couldn't get it registered and it is technically not street legal at this point. I'm letting it run in the driveway to burn up the gas. Should I fill it completely when I get gas or should I put just a bit in and run it out a couple of times before I try to get it inspected again? Also, if I put it in park and rev it for 20 mins or so would that be equivalent to driving it on the highway?
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