Golf IV R32 :: Turbo Too Rich At Idle
May 14, 2015
I've been struggling with this issue for several months now and cant find the issue. My R32 is fully build 6767 turbo and all supporting mods, it has UM 870cc tune and a PRO Maf. Suddenly it started being too rich at idle, wont even start some times and when you press the gas it dies. When MAF is disconnected it will start but when pressing the gas it will die also. Fuel system is a twin 044 Bosch and OEM fuel pump with a FPR. Been trying with different fuel pressure but it doesn't change anything. What could it be the problem?
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My wife just got his car and she loves it!. its a 1.8t 5 speed. Runs and drives awesome. She had 2 new beetles before this one with the same motor but they both had 2 1/2 exhaust from the turbo back. The jetta will be done soon but it has this slight growl when its idling sometimes. Doesn't seem like its every time or may be it seems more when its warmed up. We had just changed the timing belt and tensioner and water pump but we did it 2 days after we got it so I am not sure if it did it before or not.
Kinda sounds like a bad needle bearing where when you spin it and can feel little bumps in it...don't know if that makes sense or not. You can kind of feel it when your sitting in it but its hard to say because we just got it. I don't remember the beetles doing it though but may be the exhaust kinda made it less noticeable. It did have a code about exhaust something bank 1?? I am thinking the cat might be bad or the o2 sensors. i have more sensors im gonna try but when i do the exhaust I know the light will be on anyway.
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Car started to do some weird stuff today. Misfiring under high load, as I get into boost.
Idle is around 1000-1100 RPMs. Cold start is fine, idle is normal in terms of going higher a bit, but then it sits at 1kish. This started last night after the car sat for a couple hours. Totally normal running and driving prior to this.
I've seen all the MKV threads about it that suggest everything from battery, to alternator, to grounds, to vacuum leaks, to intake leaks, to MAF.
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Have a 2000 mercury mountaineer that is crazy rich on idle, just dumping gas in the exhaust, fuel pressure is good, burning a ton of gas. Live data is as follows:
Fuel system 1 CL fault(if I shut it off and restart it will go to OL fault)
Fuel system 2-na
calc load 33.3
ect 174
stft b1 -23.4
ltft b1 0.0
stft b2 42.2
ltft b2 0.0
engine rpm 856
veh speed 0
spark advance 18.5
IAT(F) 66
MAF 1.7
TPS 18.8
02SLOC B1S12_B2S12
02S B1 S1(V) 0.920
STFT S1 -23.4
02S B1 S2 0.000
STFT B1 S2 99.202S B2 S1 0.765
STFT B2 S1 42.2
02S B2 S2 0.910
STFT B2 S2 99.2OBD SUP OBD2
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
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I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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How can one get a too lean AND a too rich error, within 150 miles? I'm guessing the too rich code was what through the CEL last night. For reference, the only mod is APR stage 1. That will teach me to drive "spiritedly" with a Porsche Turbo S. (which sounded amazing at WOT btw..)
2 Faults Found:
000369 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0171 - 001 - System Too Lean
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
[Code] ....
000370 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0172 - 002 - System Too Rich - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
[Code] ....
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760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
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I have a 2006 6.0, edge programmer, and egr delete. I had the hpop replaced back in July. I have a straight piped exhaust system as well. I have always noticed a loud whistle at idle from the turbo but yesterday when I started it there was not whistle at all. When I drove it it would still build boost but not like it used to. I have to really get on the throttle to build boost like it should. Is it my turbo going bad?
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So I just purchased my first diesel a couple weeks ago (2003 f250 Lariat). I love it! However, I'm having concerns about my turbo whistle on it. At idle and while in higher RPMs is sounds ridiculously loud (even at 0 PSI in the boost). I've been doing my research on it and I know the 03's have the loudest sounding turbos because they have less vanes than the later models. I know without a video it's going to be hard to diagnose, but I am wondering if a loose boot would cause a turbo whining sound through the exhaust? I have yet to hear ANY other diesel in person that has a turbo whine as loud as mine.
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I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
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Will a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
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What is the point that the headspacer fitment doesn't affect the fitting of the upper timing chain considering that the time chain rails etc are brand new also i have seen fitment with a 2mm headspacer plus a spilt oem headgasket which is rougly 0.65mm to give 9,1:1 cr if i am not mistaken,is this the limit then if going with two full oem headgaskets and a 2mm headspacer which will give us a result of 8,8:1 cr do u think that the timing chain will not fit?
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So yesterday i decide to race one of my friend and a couple of seconds later i get a CEL. So today in the morning i went to autozone to check what the problem is with a scanner and i get this:
Did i f up my turbo? I am APR 2+ with only 4700 miles, what should i do?!
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I was wondering if most of you here cool down your turbo for a minute or two before turning your car off after driving it kind of aggressive for a while? In the past I've heard people say "Most turbo failures happen from improper warm up and cool down".
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I got my R flashed about a month ago and decided to do a little run 2 days ago at my local track (BYW I am APR stage 1+) Because I thought the software removed the speed limiter of 125 MPH, I was suprised when car got to 135 and completely stopped accelerating. When I slowed down, it was like the car had no turbo. I would press on the gas and it would barely move.
Idk if it was the turbo or the software. When I stopped I turned off the car and turned it right back on and BOOM, it was back to normal. So yesterday, the same thing happened at 110 MPH and I restarted it and everything was back to normal but now the Engine Malfunction Light is on but everything is working fine.
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Dropped her off at the dealer for the 30k service and minor oil leak near the turbo.
-Water pump replaced (never did whine nor did I notice it leaking)
-Valve cover gasket replaced
-Oil inlet line on turbo leaking
-Wastegate clamp
-Driver side window regulator
Already had my intake mani replaced around 25k miles. Hopefully this will cover all the known/dreaded Mk6 issues. My 1.8T was bulletproof.
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Well I have been working on my build for about 2 1/2 years. Built the motor for the turbo set up that I had on the car and a few other goodies.
Now the motor turns over with no issue and I have spark. So I know my problem lies in the fuel delivery. My pump tested fine and I have fuel at the rail. So my next guess is the injectors. After trying to start the car I pulled 2 spark plugs out and they where dry. So this proved to me there's an issue here.
Before I go and rip my manifold off and start pulling injectors is there anything I could check first? I'm thinking from sitting that have gotten dirty and clogged.
Looking for wire diagram for the injectors on the vr6?
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I have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?
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