Golf IV R32 :: Tried Jumping But Won't Start?
Dec 7, 2013
So I drove my car yesterday, came back home and wanted to go out again but then the car won't start. The lights and radio all come on, I tried jumping it but still won't start. When I turn the key all the dash lights come on but no sound from the engine. What is wrong with my car?
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So I picked up a 2002 passat 1.8T autotragic from a guy because a shop said it had a bad computer. After bringing it home and talking to some local volkswagen mechanics they said it couldn't be the computer because the car would still crank. I jumped the trigger wires and the car starts right up no problems and runs perfect for sitting for a year. My question is what could be the problem? I changed the ignition switch and replaced the 40amp fuse by the computer. I am trying to flip the car so I am hoping its not a big problem and have to part the car out.
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I have a 2007 prius, i replace the original battery with a Optima prius battery about 3 months ago, Never have had any problems with the car but old battery was getting weak. After replacing the battery everything was still normal. Two days ago i came home shut the car off and went in. Next day i had no power(nothing dome light, locks, etc like 12v battery was disconnected), thought maybe something got left on so i jumped it under the hood and it started and ran fine. Let it run for about 30mins turned it off then went to turn it back on, again nothing, I checked the Optima in the trunk and its fully charged and the main 120 fuse is good and all other fuses i can find also are good, But the car has no power to anything or less i jump it from under the hood, jumping it at the optima does nothing. I followed the 12v battery wire till it went through the floor pan under the rear seat still had 14.6v.
Can't tell where the wire goes but the fuse box under the hood has no power. Have also tried another good battery with same results. Is there a fuse hidden some where or could this be a problem with the inverter? I have jumped the car a few times and it will start up and run fine and gas motor will even cycle on/off like normal.
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I've been trying to figure out what exactly is going on with my car but its hard to explain/describe it so I've decided to video it..
Driving + shifting + holding my phone + my GTI is spun all the way down on coils = shakie video.
In Video #1, I'm in 4th gear at 2800 RPM and gave it full throttle. Watch it closely at 0:04 you will notice how the RMP just jump back a little and then continue accelerating while the boost is holding at 15psi.
Video #2, same story at 0:04 except the boost jumps back as well.
It does NOT seem normal and im not sure whats wrong and where to even start.
Slipping clutch?
Diverter Valve?
Boost/vacuum leak?
Turbo into DP leak?
My GTI is APR Stage II, intake and catless turboback exhaust.
Video #1
Video #2
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In a rush, I accidentally hooked the cables up wrong while jumping it off. Now the lights and all come on, but it will not start at all....
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So I haven't driven my 2003 Jetta in about a week and a half. Today when I started it it struggled to start, and then at a stop light while my foot was on the brake it was jumping/stuttering. it continued when I moved at 5 mph, but did not happen while driving at higher speeds (15 mph) and went away when j shifted from drive to park. I got on the highway and drove for 15 minutes with no issues, and now the problem is gone. Is this a sign of a failing part?
The spark plugs and wires were replaced 6 months ago. I had them changed because the car has always had a small intermittent rough idle that would sometimes happen when stopped and at low parking lot speeds, but it's never been so noticeable. it was really lunging this time
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I have a 98 chevy silverado c1500 extended cab has 5.7 350,and i think a 4L60E transmission. Driving around town my truck shifts fine, but when i get on the highway for a little while it will start jumping hard from 1st to 2nd, but if i kill the truck and start it back up it will usually shift fine.
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I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
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I've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Automatic with a 4.0... A few months ago I went to start it and it would not start. All the lights were on and working, the radio worked etc. I figured it was the fender solenoid so I replaced it. Didn't fix it. I jumped the solenoid and it spun up. The only way I can start the truck is by turning the key to on, and jumping the solenoid. I replaced the ignition switch that is under the instrument panel, and the ignition cylinder that the key goes in to. I have reason to think that it may be the neutral safety switch, but I do not want to go out and buy the part and it not be the issue.
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I just got this truck about a month ago now and today it started fine and when I got home from work, I ate dinner and then went out and it started fine and once i got home i let it sit for an hour and then went to do more errand and it wouldn't start. I checked fuses and what not it all looks ok. I got the truck to start by jumping the wires on the starter. What might be causing the truck to do this? as i say today is the first time this has happened?
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.
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I have a 2010 JSW TDI and when I shut off the engine, sometimes the front windshield wipers "jump" up about half an inch. This also causes a "clunk" sound when they hit against the windshield. It has not been raining where I live so I didn't accidentally leave it in intermittent or anything. Is this normal? I'm beginning to get worried that there may be an electrical problem with my Jetta.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I have a 1991 Toyota Celica ST184 5SFE that has only just started to have a few issues with the Speedometer.
Issue: When driving the Speedometer may jump up and down and when taking foot off the gas it will instantly drop. Happens now and then it may work again.
I have taken the car to the mechanics and they have confirmed that the car uses a Sensor for the Speedometer.
I took my car to an Auto Electrical Mechanic and he did a few tests on the car using a tool that showed the speed of the Sensor when Driving and he has confirmed that the Sensor is working correctly as he can see the speed while driving.
He mentioned that there is likely to be an issue within the Dash and possibly a loose cable or a bad resistor.
How to troubleshoot this on the Dash and how to remove it correctly without damaging anything.
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My Honda Fit has had this problem for over a year; I've brought it in to multiple shops and they couldn't replicate it. I first thought it only was happening when the a/c was on, but now that it's winter, and the heat is on, it seems to be occurring all the time. The car will "jump" (bump?) when idling, and will now (newly) do the same thing while driving. I can't identify what it might be and when I bring it to the shop, it decides not to do it when they test drive.
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Service is coming. I have road service reimbursement. Do I have to disconnect ground cable if jumping it to start and not recharging it? The service guy said they would hook up a charge box to it but didn't need to take off the ground cable. I should make sure he switched the power of the box off when connecting and disconnecting the cables, right?
Does it work to leave it idling or do I have to drive it and for how long? Manual shows a way to jump from another vehicle, but it needs another car with a 12V battery. Most cars have a 12V battery though don't they, or are they the wrong type and have to have another hybrid car to jump from. Do you use regular cables to do this?
What is reverse polarity and what did they do to the car that damaged the control system?
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I have a 06 B6 that I am having issues with. We took a trip to Vegas in June and had no problems the entire way. We get home and the next day he starts throwing a CEL. We take it to our mechanic to have him VAG COM it and he says it is running rich at idle. The mechanic says that we may have gotten some bad gas when we left Vegas. Ok, no worries, we put new gas in the car along with some fuel cleaner and it seems to be ok. I drive the car 7 miles each way to work, and the way I break is that I coast into it before I brake. I noticed that the RPM's started jumping around. My husband took it to the mechanic and he said to clean the MAF and to take the intake off. Done, still getting a CEL.
So I take it back to the mechanic and he says its the seal inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump, while because of the CamFlower/Fuel Pump issue the only one in Phoenix is 50 miles away and at an Audi dealership that wanted to mark it up 50%. He also said that it smelled like fuel under the oil cap. So I go and get it, only to get it put on (Wednesday), everything good and then I notice today(Friday) that it is still jumping around. I have had the code cleared today but I am afraid that it is still something else. The CEL is off but for how long I dont know.
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i have just replaced the clutch in my 2002 santa fe all went well but on the test drive i noticed the revs jumping up and down while idling at a set off lights . it was not in gear and the clutch was out. Have checked all hoses and connections. problem still there.
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