Golf IV R32 :: Traction Control Light Came On
Jan 13, 2012
My traction control light came on today, and it's just...on. I am not sure what that could be. I checked to make sure the maf was on snug, Other than that I'm at a loss. Scanned it and found no codes relating. Just the dumb convenience center module.
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Ran the vag com on her and it says "AWD control module J492 no signal/no communication" I'm pretty sure I'm just driving around in fwd only right now.
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Traction control light can't seem to find out why its on no fault codes ran vag com nothing after I swapped transmissions it came on and ever since its been on.
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I read a thread about this a long time ago and after searching for a bit I couldn't seem to find the info I needed. I am having my traction and abs light come on and off occasionally and I think it's due to the sensor up front? I read that often times when suspension is installed, the sensor gets damaged and causes this issue, is this correct? Can I mend the current sensor or does it have to be replaced? what part is the actual piece that needs replaced?
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I know this has been covered. but when i searched it was all mechanical failure.
My abs/traction lights come on together whenever it snows, and i lose both abs and traction control. But in the warm weather it is fine. it ocassionally happens when it rains (but a lot less often)
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I was having a little fun with the first snow of the year, and now my traction control light won't go off... I was thinking it was the ABS... shed some light [IMG] [URL] ... got back into the car and now it works correctly ...
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I was pulling out of school the other day and my abs light came on and so did the traction control light, noting was going on at all. I was driving in a straight line. Everything works perfect i have no issues just lights, about 2 months ago. I did coilovers rotors and pad all the way around and a new abs sensor on the drivers side because i smashed it when installing the coilovers. I need to get it fixed because I cant pass inspection with the lights on and I am curious to find out if something is actually wrong with it. My uncle drove it and said it makes a noise when you turn and he thinks possibly the cv joint is bad on the axles? He said because of the excess strain from the drop.
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My car's front bumper got ripped off this week , parking spots on the grass pulled it off) Ever since then, I've been having weird ass issues. After it happened, I zip tied it back together and started to go to town when my car kicked itself into EPC mode, but only when I went on the throttle. If I let off, the EPC light would go off, but the traction control light would stay on (ESP light, whatever). I killed it and realigned the throttle body (I think that's what it is. Where you hold the brake and throttle in for about 30-60 seconds while the key is on but not started then kill it and restart it) and after I did that, it will start and only stay alive for half a second then die. It's started to make a god-awful crackling noise as well in the engine compartment near the Alternator.
[URL]....
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I have a 2008 vw r32 recently installed a HPA turbo setup, now I'm having a problem the first time this happened it was 90 degrees out I drove 40 min let it sit in direct sunlight for over a hour then drove another 30 min and hit a bunch of hard bumps traction control light and EPC light comes on and lose all power, Shut off car and restart it and was fine for about a week drove it in the am drove fine let it sit all day out in direct sunlight about 88 degrees out started it up idle was staying at 1000 and went to take off and instantly traction control light and EPC light on, now I need any input I can get I have no clue what's going on I think I knocked something loose in the ecu after they opened it up and put there chip in it, but I have no clue
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I don't know why but my traction control and abs lights stays on when I start my car if i turn it off and restart it 3 or 4 times they go away sometimes. Sometimes they will go off and comeback! what does this mean! I had my car jacked up the other day when i changed my oil i don't know if i could have pulled a ire or something from jacking it up on an angle one side at a time. I change my oil the same way every time so i never have a problem.
Also the traction control will turn off and not the ABS light after a restart, I can turn it on and off when i do a restart and it goes off, but when i start my car, and its stuck on i cannot turn it on and off! Is it bad to drive the car? If a break sensor on my wheel was replaced and then was disconnected would it trigger the ABS light? I had the sensor that goes down to my wheel replaced and it may have loosened up... but what else could cause this?
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Just replaced one outer tie rod end on my 2003 GLI yesterday. (ran out of daylight to do other side, now have another problem)...
Everything came apart and went back together fine with really no fighting. Got the alignment close, but will still need one done once I finish up.
Anyways, I am wondering what I possibly could have screwed up, because after a few miles of driving the traction control light (circle with triangle in the middle) came on and now won't go away. I didn't screw with any wires while I was in there. Pretty straight forward job, so I thought. I don't have a VAGCOM but there's no engine codes stored.
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So yesterday we did a lot of work on my car. We accidentally pulled one of the ABS sensor wires out of place. I wasn't too surprised when the light was on, also with the traction control light on. (permanently) Going around a few turns this morning, I noticed a bit of under steer, which I thought was due to breaking in the new tires. But now that I think about it more, I don't believe my haldex is engaging at ALL! If I just replace or get the wire back in correctly (we tried, but may be in wrong...) will the haldex re-engage?
I want to get it scanned but I just started spring break and am flying back home to Minnesota on Monday. A friend (experience VW owner) will be holding her til then. I've searched and some people think the brake switch can cause the ABS light to come on with the CEL. Couldn't find anything about the Traction control light always on with the ABS light. My dash is just getting more and more lit up... The airbag fault light is because of the selt buckle resistance and the brake pad light is from the new porterfield's I put on... (i put ECS' brake loop on too but not working-do I need to get it cleared?)
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I have a 202 Jetta 1.8T GLS. Sometimes the traction control light comes on and the car jumps like it cant figure out what gear to go in. It gets very interesting to drive when it does this as I am sure you can imagine. Only other light that is on is the engine control light which is on all the time. Car seems to run fine until this happens. If I pull over and shut the car off it seems fine when I start it up again and continues to run fine and all of a sudden it happens again. I do have a code p2637 Torque Management feedback signal "A".
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I just replaced the steering rack today, things i noticed on the drive home:
I get the traction control light (i know its called something else, cant think of it) when i accelerate while turning. it'll cut the power to the throttle for a few seconds/ until i slow down or stop turning.
The light also comes on when i brake slightly hard. I am not anywhere close to locking up the brakes so i know its not the ABS. Whats going on?
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2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
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I have a 2004 Jetta GLS with 125K miles and standard transmission. Just had the clutch completely replaced. After I picked the car up, I ran some errands, turning the car off and on a few times. Then the ABS/traction control light came on. I tested the brakes, which seem fine, and accelerated on some ice, with no flashing light like usual, so that's a concern. Came home and used the VAG software - no fault codes came up. Went back to mechanic, who said the clutch and this new issue are not related, but he checked my wiring, checked for fault codes, and took it for a test drive. Said he did make the flashing light come on. Turned the warning light off. It came back the next day.
My questions:
- Could this be related to the clutch being replaced?
- Is this something I should worry about, or just live with the light on?
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I installed momo steering wheel and went for a drive everything was fine horn worked, just the traction control light wont come off .
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as the title indicates i had the pleasure () of changing out my leaking power steering rack - all seamed to go well but right after that i am now getting a constent traction control warning light on my dash - what should i check ?
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Have an SE DSG w/ PP and 3300 miles.. When under hard acceleration and the traction control light blinks on I sometimes hear a loud BANG from the front - the car pulls great and goes like hell - just wondering is this the VAQ at work - sounds like the car slamming into gear.. Other than that noise the car is a total blast to drive even though it is now too cold to really play with it..
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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I have a 2005 Prius with 84k miles on it, I recently purchased it used w/ 82k miles.
While driving, about 15 miles into my drive the check engine light starts blinking with acceleration (I counted as many as 18 blinks in one time). The traction control light also came on a few times. With acceleration, the car shook. I was close to an advanced auto parts, so I went there hoping they could work. They were unable to have the connector sync with the car.
I ended up calling my girlfriend and asking her to look on this site for problems as I described. She found and read me info such as water leaking into the spark plugs (it did just rain allot yesterday) and bad gas. To my surprise, there was really no clear answer.
I called and got it towed to the Toyota dealer. The dealership just called and said they did a quick scan, and it "appears not to be from bad gas" but more testing will be done tomorrow. Would it be worth it to drive up and try some fuel water remover tonight? I also read on changing the spark plugs isn't too hard?
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