Golf IV R32 :: Stutter In Engine Which Continues As Clutch Begins To Engage On Up
Oct 13, 2011
2nd gear runs fine, but occasionally, when in first i have a real bad stutter in the engine and it continues from the moment the clutch begins to engage on up. The car just seems to jump or skip along rather than run smooth.. It occasionally will work itself out but other times will continue for 5 seconds at which i switch into second gear and everything is gravy from there. What the main root cause of this is? I don't want to get the wrong thing fixed which I've been trending on lately.
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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148,000 miles, and yesterday my R decided it would no longer allow me to use first gear. It sort of starts to go in gear, but feels kind of mushy, not positive, and if I let out the clutch, the gears grind, but will not engage. All other gears feel and perform normally.
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My wife and I have a R and a rabbit, she drives the R mostly and i drive the rabbit mostly..... I drive further to work, anyhow the past week she told me that the clutches feel like they are slipping and when she puts it into drive sometimes it wont engage... or when she puts it in p it says in d...... anyhow off to the dealer it goes for who knows what and how long... and the car is stock....
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I've been experiencing a loud clutch squeal or screech when I first engage the clutch after the car has been sitting for longer periods of time, overnight etc. It goes away after a few shifts and only returns after the car sits for a long period.
I brought it to the VW dealership since I'm still under warranty for a bit. After two visits the have come up with two hypotheses without any evidence. They claim to have not heard it or found anything wrong visually.
1) it could be a rear main seal leak. Or leak from somewhere on the tranny onto the cultch. When I first drive it is burned or wiped away. After putting on the lift they found no evidence of leaks. So hypothesis two:
2) Thy flywheel may be developing a bit of a patina of rust. After the clutch is engaged a few times, the rust is gone and the squeal goes away.
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
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I got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
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So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
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Just picked up a 2004 MK4 Jetta GLS 2.0 for really cheap.
As the title reads I have found some issues with the car after giving it a once over.
Dash/Radio lights - My Dimmer Switch is not getting power. I was wondering what the next step would be. I checked all the fuses and there is no issue.
Cooling Fan - I read about testing the plug and a CFM. Which should be done first?
A/C - I changed Electrical-Switch & Relay: A/C Clutch Switch and it did not fix the issue.
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
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We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
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I have a 1999 Winnebago Motorhome on a F53 Ford V10 Chassis and the A/C clutch will not engage when turning on the A/C. I have check the Freon 134A and it appears to be fine (in the red zone) and actually put a jumper across the pressure switch connector (harness side) and it still will not engage. Is there a fuse within the circuit if so, where it may be located?
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4.7 ltr 2WD starts fine and while cold runs fine. Seems after an hour or so of driving the engine begins to skip. Will idle just fine but when giving gas the engine skips and refuses to accelerate beyond 1700 rpm. Had the cats changed 6 months ago. someone suggested the MAF sensor might be bad....so cleaned it. Still runs rough. I suspect it might be a sensor. If I leave the car overnight ...runs fine in the morning. Engine gets hot....begins to skip and cannot accelerate unless going down hill. Vehicle skips especially when under a load.
Does the MAF sensor have anything to do with this? Maybe it could be the Engine Coolant Sensor? Not sure what to do. Don't want to throw parts at it without some idea what is causing it. BTW...no check engine lights at all. And nothing showed up on the computer when it was running rough. Tech told me cylinders 2 and 4 were not firing properly but immediately after cleaning the MAF sensor the car ran fine for 4 minutes then problem returned.
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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I traded for a 99 passat 1.8t aeb based on the assumption the slave cylinder was out. My 3rd b5 5 speed. Kid told me clutch pedal had no pressure and fell to floor.easy fix! Get the car to my house from 2 hours away and this is not the case.Pedal is fine. Decent clutch pedal starts with clutch pushed in. But clutch does not engage. Even when motor off or on goes into all gears without clutch pushed in. no engagement. So I put in new slave and bleed out.
Car no longer stuck in neutral shifts fine. Put in reverse barely crawls but is MOVING! Put into first and start to pull forward..stops moving. No clunks or booms just back to ALL neutral. starts with clutch but wont engage. So try bleeding again nothing.. I think it is the clutch but i dont want to spend 1400 if i dont have to though the car is worth it. Going to replace dual mass as well. The cv joints are fine. so thinking throw out or pressure plate. i work on this car like crazy but im definitely not going to do the clutch. Not enough time or a warm dry location. I haven't checked clutch master yet but with slave bleeding out,no leaks and a firm pedal i dont believe she is the culprit..
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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I have a 2001 Ford ZX2 with 170,000 miles on it. The clutch pedal doesn't engage the clutch until it is almost touching the floorboard. I thought it had a hydraulic clutch being a 2001 but I can't find a reservoir for the fluid so now I must assume now that it is a mechanical clutch.
1. Does they hide the reservoir on these ZX2's?
2. What could cause the clutch issue?
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