Golf IV R32 :: Stock Front Sway Bar Diameter
Jul 1, 2015
I'm going to have my front sway bar mounting bushings replaced with poly bushings next week. Shop said they wanted to order 19mm bushings for my car, but everything I see online says its a 21mm bushing. Which is correct? It's a 2004 R32.
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I installed my coil overs this weekend and it took some work to get my passenger side sway bar end link on. It was too short it seemed.the mod ts on the coil overs are I. The same place on both front coil overs. I had to put A LOT of force to get it on there. I'm wondering if other have had this issue and or what did you do? Is it putting a lot of stain on the sway bar or end link. By the way its the stock sway bar as well.
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Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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I called 2 VW dealerships but they couldn't give me an answer on how much adjustment for camber is possible. I did the search but only found rear camber adjustment info.
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So I'm backing out of my driveway today and I hear the loudest (in one of my cars) double clunk noise ever, coming from the passenger side front. Turns out one of my kw v2's decided it wanted to try and come apart at that corner.
Note: I had one side on a jackstand and could not find the cause until I removed the front swaybar endlink. It was putting tension on the arm and not allowing the movement to be found.
The shock insert inside the coilover body was moving up and down about a 1/8 inch clunking at the top and bottom of its travel. This is the retainer that loosen causing the clunking. I found that the spanner wrench from my dewalt angle grinder, fit the retainer well enough to tighten it down snug.
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inside round thing with 4 notches in it is a smaller diameter than the new hubs. Will theystill work?
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I am getting ready to make a set of front shackles for my truck for a temporary lift solution to fit my 35s until i can afford a complete suspension lift kit. I cannot for the life of me find the size of the hole for the bolts. I don't wanna drill it too big then have play in the shackle. My stockers are still installed so I don't have those to measure just yet. Need to verify the diameter hole i need to drill? and stock shackles look to be about 5.25" center to center, from what i can measure with them installed on the truck? so 2" lift, the new shackles will need to be about 9.25" center to center, right? (add 4", nets a 2" lift?)
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Basically I want to replace all my boost/vac lines with silicone. I have a 01 jetta 1.8t with aww engine code. I need to know the diameter and length of each.
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I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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My Tig has been doing a sharp clunk (single) for awhile when going a bit too fast over speed bumps. I just ignored it, as I'm not flying over bumps regularly and I had just replaced the OEM struts all around. Now when accelerating over 60 kph the car has a side to side shimmy. Also when compressing or unloading the front end suddenly, like with dips on the road, makes it clunk. Checking the various suspension components?
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Trying to change the front sway bar bushing with a PU version? Does it improve handling and steering feedback?
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I want to change the front sway bar links on a 2005 Camry that has been driven in central New York (ice, salt, corrosion) for 10 years. There is definite wiggle and noise. I recently replaced the ball joints. That was difficult. How difficult is it to remove the sway bar links? Looks like a 5MM or so allen wrench is supposed to hold the ball joint type link to allow 18MM nut to be removed. A 5MM allen wrench is about 4 inches long and skinny. An 18MM wrench is about 12 inches long and beefy. I am skeptical about breaking the nut loose.
Will I need to heat the nut? If yes, how? With a simple propane torch? If yes, how does that work? Apply heat and wait for a sound that indicates the rust has broken? Apply heat for a time, try to hold with the allen wrench and try to undo the nut? Keep trying that again and again until it works? This would be after multiple rust busting spraying to make this easier. I used a 4 inch grinder to grind the nuts off the ball joints to remove them (I know how that sounds, but that is what I did). Thoughts about that for the sway bar links? I am a bolt turner who can stand some aggravation.
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Both of my front sway bar links have a bad joint and are making a bad noise.. I purchased the replacements and tried to loosen the nuts with no success. I put some oil to loosen them and will let them set over night. Next attempt will include a breaker bar.
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I've installed a iPod adapter to my Ex's factory 6CD head unit..but I'm thinking I might like to upgrade to one of the Andriod units.
I have seen that there are some that "clip in" like the factory radio...but I'm also wanting to avoid having to trim the dash bezel.
So...is there one may that will slip in from the front like.a factory unit?
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I plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
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What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
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I'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
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2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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One is coming apart, so I'm gonna replace the pair. My Chilton book says to jack the front end up. The part instruction sheet makes no mention of doing that.
Raising the front would allow the control arms to hang. That would seem to me to make it harder to deal with the links.
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