Golf IV R32 :: Stalls At Red Light Especially When A/C Is On
Jul 15, 2014
I've had this problem for a couple years now where my car will stall when I'm at a light or in traffic. I thought it went away when I installed new engine mounts, but that might have just been the seasons changing. I've noticed the more humid it is the more frequent it happens, and A/C kicking in seems to be causing it. What to clean or fix that might be causing this? I've read about "idle air control," but I'm not exactly sure what or where that is.
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When you give it a decent amount of acceleration it starts to hesitate and kind of jump, the engine light flashes it kinda sounds like it want to stall. I'm not to good with the turbo motors. The car is a 2000 golf.
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I have a VW 2003 VR6 jetta and lately I need to turn my key 2-3 times to start the car. Then while driving during daytime hours its stalls after 30 - 40mins. With EPC light on. I also have an engine light on.
Code P1151. I noticed a small exhaust noise coming from my middle pipe and my engine is very hot after driving for 30 -45 mins after it stalls. It does start back up after 10 minutes but stalls later.
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I just had the APR Stage 3 GTX kit installed on my golf R about 3 weeks ago. Was running great until a few days ago and was making around 28 ish lbs of boost. I started having problems with the stalling the car in first gear a few days ago. It has a moment of hesitation in 1st gear when you hit the accelerator and my vacuum at idle fluctuates a bit and is reading about 20 on my PODI gauge when it use to be around 23-24. Vacuum drops to around 18 with air conditioner on.
I cleaned my intake today and re-oiled it...was extremely dirty. no change in the idle and now the car makes a max of about 12 lbs of boost. I believe it was likely the same before I changed the filter I don't see any visible vacuum leak and the engine runs smooth. it doesn't have and DTC codes present. When at idle and I take the oil cap off it idles rough. Just a slightly rough idle in first and the car won't make more than 12 lbs of boost in any gear in any rpm situation.
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So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks it's had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ). I believe the relays where the ECM is what he said number 249 I believe.
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So, this morning I stopped at the grocery store and when I came back out I started my car. The car ran for about 20 seconds then stalled. Luckily I was able to get the car to the other end of the parking lot for a tow truck yes, this meant starting it about 6 times! This is the second problem in 12 years of owning vw's I'd say that's a good track record! I did a complete auto scan.
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My car just cuts off sometimes when coming to a stop while in manual mode. It's like the clutch is stuck and it stalls out.
I ran vagcom thinking it might be dsg related but it came up fine. I do however have this....
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I have a 99.5 vr6 Jetta that I just got running, I just put a new motor in it and got all cels to go out except one because a vac hose came off and I put it back but I haven't had time to reset it. Now that I have put in ~160 miles on the new motor I felt like doing some harder pulls and racing the lights and whatnot.
Well when the car is revved up really high, like when doing a flat out start, it stalls around ~5000 rpm. It'll drive all day and pull even when I don't rev it up that high but it stalls on the way down from 5000. It stalls in neutral and while driving. It does it hot and cold.
I have put a new MAF, new crank position sensor, new output shaft, new cam position sensor. Has a new stock air filter. And an oil pump and good bearings. Has good timing too and all new timing tensioners.
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My car runs great, no problems at all. I go for a drive then turn the car off, come back, fuel pump DOES prime when i open the door. Go to start it back up and it starts right up for about 2 seconds, chugs, then stalls out. I try turning the car back on and it just turns over not getting any fuel. wait 5 minutes(once i hear the fuel pump prime again), starts right up.
I replaced my crankshaft positioning sensor and the stalling went away completely... for one week. Today I come out of class, start the car, stalls out and wouldn't start for over an hour. drove it around the rest of the day no problem turning it off and on. its completely random. No check engine light..? fuel relay?
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So up until a couple months ago my car was running fine. We drove to Vegas and everything was good, then on the way home from the car show, I put some cr@ppy 87 in and about an hour out of town I was going 80 on cruise and it bogged all the way out and came back when I hit like 60. Put some 91 in when I got to the next town and car stopped bogging out after every 5-10 miles.
I got home and read my codes. I've got a secondary air injection issue which has been going on for awhile. Also had a cam position sensor which I fixed.
Now I was driving my car the other day, I drove it til it was all the way warm and then when the clutch gets pushed in and around 1k rpms it stalls. I started it back up with my foot on the floor to get it back going. Right down the street I stop at a stop light and it stalls again and won't start. Had to push it to a gas station and leave it for a couple of hours to wait for it to cool way down to start back up. Was running like cr@p at first, but I made it home.
I had initially thought I needed a new fuel filter as well as a new fuel pump. Heard that it could also be a crank position sensor?
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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2010 gti 70k miles, has a Cai and tbe. Twice now when I've started the car (both times after driving for at least 25 miles) it starts up I go to drive and it stalls within 50 feet. It'll turn over but stall again after a rough idle for a few seconds..the only "fix" I've found is it if let the car sit for a couple hours and come back then it starts and runs fine.. I don't have a tune yet would not being tuned cause this.
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This has been happening for awhile now, but whenever the gas gets to 1/4 tank and below (about 2 ticks from the red tick on the gauge) the car will stall for about 3 seconds then come back to life. If it happens while I'm stopped it will completely die and I'll have to restart it.
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So I'm nearing my wits end. I have an '11 GTI DSG, CCTA, second owner. The problem has been happening as soon as I bought it, when it was only 6 months old.
When the engine is not fully warm, but warm-ish, the engine doesn't reliably start on the first try. I have KESSY, so I push the start button and hold it. When I release it (not too soon, mind you) the engine will idle very rough. The tach will bounce between 200 and 700 rpm. Sometimes the engine will die completely. Other times, the idle will stabilize at the right engine speed after a few seconds of roughness.
It seems like this happens most often when the car has been parked for 1 to 3 hours. However, I have had it happen very rarely when cold as well as minutes after parking. But definitely it seems to happen mostly when it has been allowed to cool slightly for 1-3 hours.
I've got youtube videos. I'll post links. I've contacted VWOA. I have a case. They tested the fuel system and believe everything is okay. They told me they suspected bad gas. I religiously used Shell 93. So they, under warranty, flushed the fuel tank. Okay, so I switched to Chevron 93. Well, the problem still happens!!! As far as I know, no parts have been replaced yet.
My car is at the dealership now, they called me today and want to give up. This would be the 5th time I've taken it in for this problem.
One thing I forgot to mention. When the engine has just started and is idling roughly, if I stab the gas pedal a little, it will bring up the revs to 2-3000rpm and 90% of the time the engine will then settle into a smooth idle immediately after the revs drop. It's almost as if the mixture is so rich that it has got the plugs wet (if this were carbureted, that'd be the first thing I would suspect)
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I had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.
So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.
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So ive had a starting issue in the R32 for quite some time now. With waterfest approaching and the new S3 going into production that i ordered, it has come time to finally fix it. I have taken in to many dealerships and very talented techs, and no one has any idea. The car seems to crank for a very long time or start right up and then just completely stall and die. The second time i start it, it starts completely fine like nothing ever happened. This only happens when the car sits for a few hours. It has never done it if the car has sit overnight or during the cold months. It has to be warm and sit for a specific amount of time. Its like it catches the car transferring into a cold start but not fully cold yet, if that makes sense. Also i am now noticing a small squeak each time it starts, like a belt. I have replaced the fuel pump/spark plugs/coil packs. Nothing has changed. We thought maybe a stuck injector but were doubtful as its not constant. Im debating a cam position sensor just to see if thats the issue. There is no CEL or any codes.
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2003 Taurus, 3.0 duratec flex, 30K. While driving at various speeds the theft light flashes for a split second and the car starts to stall before resuming normal operation on its own. The rpms drop off, and power is lost for a split second. This is getting more frequent and happened five times during a 30 mile drive. The original Ford key is being used. My scan tool reveals no codes. I understand that there may be anti-theft codes that my scanner cannot read.
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It can go for days without stalling. It will rev up at a stop light on its own, so I need to put my foot on the break harder to prevent taking off.
Sometimes while shifting gears, mostly to reverse. Car smells like gas when windows are rolled down.
Other people say there's an air leak by listening, but I can't hear it. I sprayed starter fluid on the hoses to see if the rpms would go up but nothing happened.
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I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
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Why my 92Honda accord lx stalls when the d4 light flashes
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Once I reach highway speeds on cruise control, I would feel my car to start slowing down, then a second or two later the car jerks and starts accelerating again. A few times I beat it to the punch and pressed the clutch pedal. The RPMs just dropped and the car died. This happens ONLY after a quarter tank of gas is left. I get no lights, No check engine; nothing... Where should I start looking. BTW I have a 2002 Jetta GLI VR6 24V.
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