Golf IV R32 :: Stalling At Any Standstill Longer Than 1 - 2 Minutes With The A/C On
Apr 29, 2013
So my R32 just recently started to stall at any stand still longer than 1-2 mins with the A/C on. Every thing works perfectly fine as avertised as long as the engine has not warmed up yet, I am driving at a cruising speed, or the A/C is not turned on. I'm thinking the issue maybe be heat related causing the crank position sensor to malfunction. Is there anyway to check the cps with Vagcom?
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I've got a camry 2001 4cly 2.4l vvti auto with 120 000kms. Recently i had a issue with the car car suddenly jerking while driving and at a stand still and stalling too. i done a bit of scouting around and come to the conclusion the tps has gone (checked on a multimeter) Change it and the car come good till about 1 week ago now it is doing it a lot more frequent.
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I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
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I have an 87 v6 ranger with 5 speed that has been sitting for several years. The truck only has 48000 miles on it. The gas tank has been cleaned out and both fuel pumps have been replaced. The injectors were pulled and cleaned...
It will start up and run for about 5 minutes and then will shut off. It will not start after that until the next day and then does the same thing. It starts up and runs then shuts off and can't get it to start again. Could it be some kind of circuit breaker tripping or maybe the ecm. If it is the ecm how do you test it...
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Does your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
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I got a VW Certified R32 back in August and I'm loving every minute of it! I just have two little issues. When I floor it from a standstill, the acceleration seems hesitant almost as if something is holding back the power until I hit about 3500 RPM there's a slight break (as if it were shifting but its in 1st the whole time) and then there's a lot more power available.
Also, when ever I'm shifting there is a slight delay between when I press the paddle or push the shifter. I push the '+' paddle wait half a second or so, and then it starts the shift sequence. Only seems to happen when I try to shift between 2k and 4.5k RPM (4.5k+, the second I hit the paddle it starts shifting). Is this normal? Is this because of the AWD(never had an AWD car before)? Should I complain to the dealer?
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Bought lucas oil additive, but have not used it yet. Waiting to burn some more oil and a lower reading on the dipstick before adding the quart of lucas.
Or should I just oil change with some mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40 work?
Engines around 225k miles on it.
Ones moving I notice no smoke at all. Worn out rings? Valve seals or guides?
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My grand voyager 1997 plymouth 3.3 looses fuel pressure overnight... It won't start until I crank it for 5 min or longer... I checked with fuel gauge tester, and while it runs it reads 50lbs, after hours it drops to 0 ... Injectors don't leak ... What's up with this van?
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I recently bought this CPO Azera that came with 100k mile powertrain warranty. I noticed startup rattle that occurs when the car has been sitting for 30mins and longer. It usually lasts 2 - 4 seconds.
I wanted to take it to the dealership but I want to make sure that I approach them the right way and won't be sent home with "this is normal behavior" as it happened in many cases when I was researching it. I suspect chain tensioner but I might be wrong.
2013 Azera Limited with 49k miles ....
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My Pruis v makes a humming noise. Sometimes. Doesn't happen all the time. Don't know when it will happen. When it does happen, the car makes a humming noise. High pitch and low pitch-no longer than 2 minutes. Seems to be coming from the right side of the vehicle. It is embarassing when we have friends in the car, the noise comes on , and the friend asks, 'what's that noise' and i shrug my shoulders-i don't know.Took it to service. Manager said he has to hear it to determine what/where it is coming from. If it isn't making the noise, he can't tell me where it is coming from. Took it back today and now we have a loaner so he can drive it for a couple of days to try to hear the noise.
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So i have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L v8 , it has been running good until as of lately. It has stalled or died on me 3 times, I can usually drive it for about 20 minutes, or travel short distances before it stalls out on me, the stalling is completely random, any speed/RPM. I have read everything under the sun about what could be wrong here, but where to start, have been hearing a lot about new Crankshaft sensors, TPS's , etc...
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Have a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.2 liter. Having stalling issues after 20-25 minutes of driving. Will restart but gets shorter and ashorter intervals between stalls and then stalls right after start every time until in has sat a while and cools down. Changer ECU.
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1974 F100 starts to chug after 15 minutes driving although infrequently when driving at a slower pace. Would happen around the 70mph speed and stop chugs when slowed to 65mph.
Only have experienced this after it's been warmed up, in the past 3 sessions of driving it will do this on freeway when driving 70mph, slow down to 65mph and no issue. Although, it seemed to have chugged once this morning when driving 45mph up a hill when during time engine was partially warm.
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I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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I'm the owner of a 2009 4-motion SEL with 85,000 kms....recently it has been stalling out after startup. Sometimes this occurs after driving away, but most frequently before. It usually works fine after a couple of starting attempts. I've read through some posts regarding the high pressure fuel pump as a possibility. I've also noticed a pump or fan type hum that lasts for 5-10 min. emanating from the rear of the vehicle after shutting it down. Not sure if this is normal or could be related?
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Recently my car has been overheating and then when I take it the shop they can't find no problem whatsoever. Also my ac is no longer working. The fans might need to be replaced.
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Started the car this morning and I noticed on the head unit that the drive mode selection wasn't showing "Comfort", "Sport" "Normal". When I press the mode button, the choices are faded and can't be pressed. Is this common? Something I've done?
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When I use the keyfob, my lights no longer flash. I was trying to figure out why one of my turn signals wouldn't work, and I did go through 2 fuses on accident (on the turn signal, one the hazard switch), but those are both good now and I've checked all the other ones I'd think about and nothing, they all seem fine.
Did I some how disable this by pressing the lock button too many times (I'd try one thing, hit the lock to see if they'd, then it just eventually stopped working).
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