Golf IV R32 :: Sluggish On Initial Acceleration And Very Slight Backfire - Camshaft Hall Sensor Loose
Aug 31, 2008
I had been driving around for a few days and the car had been feeling a bit sluggish on initial acceleration and there was also a very slight backfire.
Just seemed to have lost some crispness. No fault codes thrown with VAGCOM.
Found one of the Camshaft Hall Sensors loose. I have had this before with the exhaust cam sensor but this time it was the inlet one. The bolt just comes a bit loose and the sensor can swivel around very slightly if you move it with your hand.
It seems to be enough to upset the the performance but not enough to throw any codes - after all it is still working perfectly sending a signal as far as VAGCOM is concerned.
Just need to nip it up again with an M5 Allen key and you are golden. One with a ball end makes it easier to get to. Just regained about 20 HP
Pic for information ....
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This noise sound as if an electric motor going off for a second only. It almost sounds as a CD changer changing cds but for a second only.
What is weird is that it only sounds when the car has been off, turn it on and I start accelerating to about 8-10mph. If I come to a complete stop at a stop light and accelerate again it will not sound. If i come to complete stop and put the car in park or N, it will not sound. You will only hear it on the first take off when the car has been off.
I would also like to point that I have manually shifted and this does not change a thing. The noise still comes on around 8-10mph even if I keep it in 1st gear.
Furthermore, I would also like to point out that the noise is is not loud. Chances are I will not hear if I have radio on at low levels or the A/C fan in mid to high.
Again, the sounds seems to come from the outside the cab and it sounds like an electric motor going off for about one second only.
The car is a 2012 l4 with about 60k miles on the odo.
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Wasn't there a TSB for this? I've searched Google and Vortex with nothing for the MKVI but I could swear I read something on this.
I am accumulating oil/grim right around the sensor and it's beginning to irritate me. I want to take her to the dealer but would rather know for sure of any possible TSB out there so I have something to reference.
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Need to locate and resolve the backfiring problem When I drive the car. I changed the lifters and smoother out the throttle body and install a new fuel filter and lines. the car ran fins until is missed shift and stalled the car. I then read on one of the forums that the coils could be bad so I changed all of them plus the O2 sensors. and the car idles fine but as i put it into gear it sluggish and backfire. I have change all that I know to except the spark plugs and wires. I'm thinking something maybe wrong with the computer. I don't have any diagnostics equipment. Is my engine ready to die?
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She is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
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I have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry with only 56,000 miles on it and I have noticed that the engine has been very sluggish on start-up first thing in the morning. This happens only when the weather gets cooler and is worst in winter. Warm weather, no problem. After I back out the driveway, I have to step on the accelerator 2-3 times before the car will go forward. The engine sounds like it's straining. After initial start-up, no problem. Now, lately I have begun seeing blue smoke coming from the exhaust . . . again only on initial start-up in the morning.
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I picked up my first GTI about 3 months ago, a 2011 Autobahn with about 35,000 miles. I love the way it drives. I had been admiring them from a distance, and was finally able to pick one up. Unfortunately, I've run into a few issues. I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to the inner workings of cars, but I'm eager to get into it more. My issue is below:
Over the last few weeks, the car has been consistently a little sluggish, and the acceleration has seemed a bit jumpy. I've only used premium gas, and I've been looking for simple things that might be the issue. I live in Houston, and I was wondering if maybe the extreme heat and humidity might be the reason behind the sluggish performance.
Yesterday, I decided I would clean the air intake filter. It has a K&N intake from the previous owner. After cleaning the filter and replacing it, the car wouldn't start. I may have put too much oil on the filter or the humidity may have just caused it to take longer to dry than the instructions on the cleaning kit recommend.
I called my bro-in-law who is the go-to car guy in our family. He recommended that I try starting the engine without the air filter and pull out the MAF sensor and check it out. When I took off the filter, the car started fine. I replaced the filter, then also pulled the MAF sensor to see if it needed to be cleaned. I found that the bottom of the MAF sensor was bent and slightly dented. I could also see a place where the sensor had scratched the bottom of the pipe.
This morning, the car is running a little smoother (better than before, but not as quick as I remember), but the check engine light has come one. Could the performance issues be due to the damage to the MAF sensor? With the check engine light, is that something that is automatically triggered by removing the MAF sensor? Or is there some other issue.
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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Was on my way to work when my coil plug light started to blink - acceleration was sluggish as hell so I tried restarting the car to see what would happen. After restart the coil plug still lit up followed by the check engine light. Was gonnna be late for work so I used my other car to get to work and got the car towed to the dealer to check it out. This is what they found...
Birds decided to make a nest in my nice and cozy warm engine compartment ...
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Ive been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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I have noticed a slight stutter in the acceleration when pushing it hard. Seems to be most noticeable 4th gear around 4500-5500 rpm. Is that because I dont have a HPFP? I also notice the fluttery whistle sound that was discussed at length in another thread...doesn't bother me one bit but it seems to coincide the stuttery acceleration. Also, I noticed it upon the very first drive after getting flashed - currently at 2500km.
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I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
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Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
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I have had my 2010 Prius 2010 for a year now. I have been taking my Prius to a full service car wash with the conveyor belt. They have always seemed ver Prius savvy. But the last couple of times, after getting in the car and driving away, the car seemed to hesitate upon initial acceleration. Then the problem goes away.
The last time I took it to this car wash, I sat in the car, because I only needed the express exterior wash. About a third of the way through, the instrument panel said "Low Traction Battery... put into Park" I did not obey the warning because I was afraid of putting it in Park while the conveyor belt system was pushing my Prius along. So I ignored it. By the end of the car wash, the engine had shut down. I had to start it up and drive out, and I got that same momentary, initial hesitation as I accelerated, like before. The hesitation went away after that.
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I just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
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Just rejoined this Ford gang after years absence. Used to own "The Muny Pit", a '79 F-150 4WD monster with a '69 429... constantly breaking something. Anyway, where to look on my '08 F-150 XLT 4WD with a 5.4, 83,000 miles. Searched the search bar for my title and found a post on an '00 Expedition describing similar issue than mine... for about 6 months now when I accelerate either from stop or a crawl; forward or reverse; more so when turning, but does do it wheels straight.
Upon initial acceleration I have this horrendous rumble / shudder in the truck, like the grinding metal bearing sound/feeling felt when the pinion bearing went out on my '79 (only felt it seconds before the 9" rear pumpkin exploded). Once rolling it stops. I have checked all wheel bearings.. I have check all the suspension joints... everything looks fine, no obvious issues. The only suspension mod I've done is a 1.5" leveling kit when brand new. On the Expedition two replys suggested changing the transmission/transfer case fluids claiming it cured their vehicles.
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I was just curious what the best way to increase initial acceleration from a dead stop is for a 2009 F- 150 XLT with a 5.4 V-8.
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Woke up to go to work and it started up with a rough idle, got a block down the road and it had a slight miss under acceleration. Guessing its a bad coil, I've got a spare featured I'd play I I mini miny moe when I get home unless.
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