Golf IV R32 :: Skipping Gears When Driving?
Aug 14, 2010
I was having a discussion with a few friends and some think skipping gears when driving is bad and some say that its fine. For example going from 2nd to 4th and skipping 3rd gear. Which one is it?
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Is it ok/better/worse to skip gears while accelerating in a manual car? Example would be starting from a stop in 1st and going strait from 1st to 3rd gear. , I have a mazda 3 and i usually run 1st up to 3500 rpm or so and when i hit 3rd its around 1400 when I let the clutch out.
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 50,000 miles. I know I was overdue on the tranny fluid change and the car was getting bad gas mileage and skipping gears. I brought it in and had the tranny flushed and refilled and now its running good. I thought it would be good to get a price on spark plugs because the book said replace at 60,000. I called the dealer and he basically told me he has not sold many of the plugs and they should last 100,000.
I seem to be getting conflicting info on what should and should not be done at the maintenance books written schedule. I looked for a price on Fuel Filter air filter which is in the maintenance to replace but again conflicting info stating that should not be changed unless there is a problem. Anyway, what should and should not be replaced at specified intervals? I know the tranny fluid change should have been done at 30,000 because it was very dirty and causing issues for me.
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So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...
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My Azera has developed a misfire. Upon leaving work today it ran rough ass soon as I started it. CEL flashing.. I could feel it skipping as I was driving home. Skip never let up.
When I got home, I hooked up the Scanner to it. DTC P0300 was set. Which I think is random misfire. I checked underhood. Nothing appears amiss. With engine off I clear the code and restart the car, This time it set DTC P0301 cyl. #1. I think.
I do not have all the factory service manuals yet. so I need to know what the firing order is on the 2006 3.8 L VIN F Engine. And where the #1 cyl is located. I am suspecting a bad coil at the #1 Cylinder.
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Subaru Outback 2003 4 cylinder runs ok first several minutes then starts to skip. Appears to be maybe EGR related? Plugs/wires/dist ignition are ok. The car was double filled with oil the started, smoked. Could that affect the ECR or PVC? Could this damage the fuel injectors?
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A couple days ago, my Excursion started skipping 2nd gear when driving in D. The RPMs will go up to 3500 or so before slamming into 3rd gear. Shifting in all other gears works fine. However, when manually shifting through the gears (1, 2, D), it finds 2nd gear and shifts fine. I am mechanically inclined when it comes to engines, but not an auto trans.
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On the way home tonight my dad was driving his camry and lost all gears. As far as I know there was no clunking or noises it just lost all gears. I can put the selector into any position and the engine does nothing but rev. Car doesn't try to move at all. "Manual" mode doesn't make a difference either. No fluid leaks that I am aware of and I've done every oil change on his car. Park works as far as I know if that matters. Its almost as if its stuck in neutral. I checked the transmission fuse under the dash and it is not blown. Thinking maybe the solenoid pack went out?
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I am going on a camping trip this weekend and I thought I'd get some insight to mountain driving. I understand that going down a steep hill, one should stay in the lower gears to slow the car and prevent constant braking and brake fade. However, what is the mechanics behind this? In lower gears, what prevents the car from continuing to gain speed as I am going down the hill. Let's say I am in 1st gear and my car max out at 20 mph. How is it that the car stays at 20mph and what prevents the car from flying down a steep hill? Won't the kinetic energy of the car eventually speed up car past 20mph?
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The shifting in my Hyundai Sonata 2009 Limited V6 is horrible, having issues with shifting such as a hard jerk from 1st to 2nd when car changes gears driving. It feels like it is pulling back when the car changes into 3rd gear oh and you can forget trying to go uphill. It is completely horrendous it is shifting always up to 3000+ rpms struggling to make it uphill. Any way to achieve a smoother shift and also towards the uphill thing.
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I have had the absolute worst experience with my 2010 Toyota Sienna that has 66K miles. The transmission gears seized (completely locked up) while I was driving down the road, causing such friction/tension that it exploded through the top of the cover of the transmission. Parts of the transmission were falling out of the car and the transmission fluid completely emptied onto the road. This created an incredibly dangerous situation.
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I just bought my first Lexus, picked up a 2008 GX 470 with only 35k miles!
I just had the TSB for the "Clunk" issue fixed and I had a tire sensor that was leaking and had that fixed.
The ONLY other issue I am having is that there is a vibration at between 1250-2000 RPM and it's most prevalent at 1500 RPM, but it is gone above 2000 RPM. This happens while in park and hitting the accelerator to get to those RPM and it happens in all gears while driving, which is especially annoying because the SUV typically is sitting right at 1500 RPM while driving.
The Lexus dealer thought the driveshaft TSB would take care of the vibration, but it didn't.
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While driving on highway lost gears no reverse or any gears. check fluid ok no burnt smell
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I rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
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Today I was driving on the interstate at about 70 mph and my truck seemed like it popped out of gear...no loud noise or anything. I was able to coast off the off ramp and my truck was still running but sounded a little odd when I revved it. No gears work and when i revved it in gear it sounded like something loose in the bell housing area maybe. After I turned it off I was not able to restart it, sounded like the starter was just free spinning. Flywheel maybe?
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I have a 4l60e transmission that was rebuilt less than 500 miles ago, I was driving on the highway when all gears were lost. There is clicking in the front part of transmission. Can I just replace pump? Fluid is clean no pieces in pan, are cluthes still good?
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So while I was in gear i felt a thunk and suddenly the car had no driving power in any of the gears including reverse. Pulled over popped the hood and checked my linkage. Everything was still connected as far as i could tell. Had my buddy watch the linkage while i shifted through the gears, everything checked out normal. While in gear the car still rolls so obviously something internally isn't jivin. Haven't gotten under it yet, doubt that will tell me anything. 130k miles had her for less than a year haven't gotten around to picking up a bentleys yet. I'll grab one tomorrow since nothings open today.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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My 2011 Sonata SE gets a rough idle when my AC is turned on, and sometimes it produces a whirring noise as I'm driving in low gears. It all goes completely away if I turn my AC off. I'm afraid my AC might go out at an inopportune time. What could it be?
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Took my 2007 Honda Pilot in on Thursday for an oil change and trip inspection to a very reputable mechanic that specializes in Japanese cars. He said he found a small amount of leakage on the rear cover of the transmission (it is a two wheel drive) so he removed the cover, resealed, and refilled the fluid. The evening after I picked it up, as I was driving up a hill, the car started rolling backwards and no gears would engage. Had it towed back to my house.
No fluid in the reservoir and the dipstick smells burnt. Obvious trans fluid on the underside of car. Is the transmission fried? Does he owe me a new transmission? No trans problems in it's history. It has been a great car and I am anal about the maintenance. I have all records since new. Should I have it towed back to him on Monday morning or towed to a dealer? The car has 89,000 mostly highway miles on it.
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I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. Took it to a shop to repair an oil leak. They had to dismount the transmission to get to the gasket. I got the car back and the transmission was messed up. Took it to a transmission shop and they told me that the transmission "cable" wasn't positioned correctly by whoever had done the work and they could fix it. They told me it was safe to drive it until my appointment. The engine was revving too high before changing gears and while driving home, I heard a loud rattling noise in the engine and my car stopped in the middle of the road. I'm told that a rod has broken inside the engine. My question is: can this in any way be related to the transmission cable not having been set/positioned correctly?
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