Golf IV R32 :: Significant Lag When Press The Throttle
Sep 23, 2011
I had this same issue on my old 03 GTI. Trying to blip the throttle on downshifts there's a significant lag when I press the throttle to when the rpms actually spin up. Nearly a second I'd say. Goes towards feeling like the pedal is very disconnected from the motor. I know it's drive by wire and maybe that's the problem but perhaps there's a maf mod or something I can do to improve the response. The car has a vf stage 1 SC kit on it.
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I just installed the BSH turbo inlet pipe as well as the Neuspeed P-Flo intake.
Install was pretty simple, the only things that gave me trouble were those stupid clamps on the inlet of the turbo and on the maf, just because they are a pain in to get off ..but anyway im very impressed with it so far. It looks great and high quality. It sounds amazing! Not too loud that it gets annoying, but still gives that p hhhhh sssss sound that everyone loves.. The turbo sounds much meaner and there seems to be a significant increase in throttle response. At first i didnt really notice much power gains, but after driving it for about two days, i've noticed that my top end is a lot better and it pulls alot harder on the freeway and in 6th gear.
I also installed the forge diverter valve yesterday and like everyone says, its not much louder than with the stock diverter but it did gave the intake more of a flutter sound.
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I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
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I was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
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I just bought a 2001 celica vvtl-i and am struggling with the throttle sensitivity. If I press it just a millimeter it revs to 3k and makes it hard to set off as I then lift off the throttle and stall it! It's a bit embarrassing in car parks. Is this normal or just mine? Also when dropping a gear with the windows shut I can hear a metallic rattling may be the exhaust but it's just after raising the clutch when shifting down a gear, not up though. Is there a way to alter the throttle? I can adjust the cable but that will just make it engage later and presumably still be as sensitive when it does.
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Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
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I just wanted to know if there is any significant changes in driving with the traction control off. I know in curves and other situations it is affected, but I am talking in a general everyday drive to and from work and so on. Is there a difference between driving with traction control off/on, as per say mpg or anything like that.
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My MPG has fallen ~ 35% since the intake was installed. Barely did 20mpg driving at 75mph from Vegas to LA and now averaging about 17mpg on the next tank. What should I be looking for? I'm stage 1 APR (was before the Neuspeed as well) stage 1.
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2003 GLI 2.0 engine
We have a significant coolant leak. The attached pic is of a coolant pipe which runs down from the rear of the head at the firewall. This was taken from the underside looking up.
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Just noticed my car squeaks at very low speeds when i press on the brake and then also when it is stopped as I rock it back in forth (engine on or off). Sound is definitely coming from the front end.
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I had this noise since purchasing car from dealer but always thought it was the injectors, Lately it has got a lot louder and I'm positive it's not my injectors. It comes and goes at idle but when I press the gas it stops for a bit.
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This is the same issue as me.
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So I went to my garage, and wanted to go warm up the car. Didn't realize it was in gear (since i don't sit in the car but just reach for the clutch and press the start button). Apparently it was in gear and it jerked forward.
Now my DRL's don't turn on when the headlights are off. When the headlights are on the DRL's turn on but is dimmed which is normal.
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Just replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel with SPEC ones and now I have a weird clicking noise during idle from it. Noise goes away when I press in clutch. My technician says that they are known for this noise. Is that true?
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When I drive the car makes noise just started. What I would like to know does the mk4 12v vr6. I have a differential and when i press the gas or release the gas the car jerks.....
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i have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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My 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T just started doing this... I am not hearing the normal Turbo whistling noise when I give it a lot of gas, however I now hear a squealing noise. Sounds similar to a loose belt kinda whining/squealing. I do not hear this at any other time, only when accelerating quickly.
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My R is stock. When I accelerate hard and shift, I can hear like a whine noise when I press the clutch to shift.
Its like something continue to spin fast when I press the clutch at high rpm.
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Had my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
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I've been having an issue with my hatch not opening the first several times I press the unlock button on the remote. For reference it's the car door unlock button I'm pressing, not the hatch one as that one has never done anything when I've pressed it.
I thought it was due to the faulty rear view camera I had installed (the emblem pops out) but I just got a new one installed 2 days ago and it's doing the same thing. It's gotten so bad I've had to go open the drivers door and press unlock from inside there to get it open.
I'm wondering if there is a problem with the latch getting stuck or something. I've never had it not close all the way or anything like that which I hear is more common than the issue I'm having. I will take a pic of the pin in the trunk that I'm talking about.
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Yesterday i removed my bumper and unhooked my battery and reinstalled it a few hours later. Now have a "Stop Engine Press Top" error on the screen and the oil light is flashing. I also noticed that the oil temp gauge is not moving.
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