Golf IV R32 :: Shifter Not Working Smoothly
Mar 20, 2010
The car came with a EIP Short Shifter. It is short, but seems to be having some problems. Is it normal to feel like I have to really try and get it into gear? I like being able to shift and not "muscle" it in.
I don't know how to put it. It takes so much effort that in a "track" scenario I do not see how this could even be used. Does that make sense?
A bigger a more worrying problem is that on high rpm shifts (5k+) 3rd gear will sometimes grind unless I REALLY slam dunk it in.
This is keeping me from really "driving" the car. My damn Volvo sedan could be romped on harder. It didn't fight me. Is this some crazy EIP thing?
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I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
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I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
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Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
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I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. O2j trans obviously. It shifts not so smothly in any gear but stays in all gears fine. When the car is up to temp and the trans is warm it grinds going into second. It's ONLY when the car is warm. Shifts perfectly fine before that. And it's only when I shift from first into second. I can go from third to second just fine and I can pull out of first put into third without letting go of clutch and put it into second without a grind. I've changed the oil to Lucus oil 70w/90 gl-4 rated and there was absolutely no change.
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Today, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.
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This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
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My car has 96,000 miles on it now and I have been having some trouble. 3 weeks ago I was having a lot of trouble cold starting the car. I had the oil changed and the spark plugs. I then had VW replace the black ECT with the green top one and the engine light went off for 48hours then it came back on.
After the ECT was replaced I did not have any trouble starting that car, but the car was not running right. I would put it into second and it will barely move. The thermostat does not become level until 10 minutes after driving it for a while.
I have an appointment in the next few days to have VW look at it. What else could it be?
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It seems like the first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway my car acts like it not accelerating smoothly. It's kinda jerky and seems like it takes a second to get the gas. I mean I know some cars are a little jerky after not being driven for a day or so but she is brand new, only a few months old.
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It's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
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So, after driving my car around for maybe an hour without any warning lights, I turned my car off. I tried to turn it on 15 minutes later when it turned over twice, sounding much louder than usual, then nothing. Tried again and just a single click. So I fear the worst and check the oil which is low but still on the stick and the coolant is fine too. I thought maybe the battery was dead so I tried a jump and that won't turn the engine over either. I put a charged battery from another car in and nada. I tried turning cam gear and also the flywheel pulley with a cheater bar and it doesn't want to move. I'm totally screwed right? That same morning I fiddled with the purge valves for the evap system because of a trouble code which O got to disappear. The engine also sounded funny for like 2 days only during ignition. By funny, it seemed to be louder than normal but no horrible metallic sounds or anything. Is it possible for it just to seize like that for no apparent reason?
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Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
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I traded my 08 R32 for a certified 2013 GTI Autobahn 4 dr. and have noticed a few quirks or issues. I have had several Vw's and my wife currently has a 2010 Tiguan SEL awd. The car goes in on the 10th to see what the dealer can find out. I bought the car with roughly 9400 miles and it has 11,300 on it now.
Issue 1 - The passenger side door handle does not pull smoothly to open. When you pull on it it goes about half way and stops and then you have to pull it again or harder. I am thinking it is an alignment issue.
Issue 2 - When i first start driving after the car has sat overnight in the garage or in the parking lot at work I get a swirling sound from the rear brakes. I do set the parking brake every time it is parked. It is almost like the brakes are not releasing all the way or rub for a little.
Issue 3 - This is the one that is odd and concerns me. When i first start driving the car takes several minutes to come up to 190 degrees. I baby the car till it gets up to temp for the turbos sake. But oddly after it gets up to temp with in 5 minutes it is like the thermostat opens and it cools back down to 150-160 and then comes back up to temp. My wife's car does not do this and neither did the 07 Passat 2.0t. Is this common? When talking to the service advisor (who I have been dealing with for a while) he said he has never had this issue come up.
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I have a 2011 camry se and recently i try changing the shifter led and i dont know what i did but now the light for that doesn't work including the lights for the A/C, radio, steering wheels, and glove box. but every other lights that i have led in does work. i check the fuse to see if it was blown wasn't that.
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2008 Hyundai Accent 3 door the automatic transmission indicator light on the center console is not working anymore.
There is no mention of it in the Owners Manual. Every other bulb is referenced. Should I junk it or replace the bulb?
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My dsg shifter feels tight from p to r to n etc. I have a torque mount insert. That is not related correct? Just wanted to know before I bring it to the dealer and have them replace the shifter.
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So i was driving home from work yesterday and out of no where i couldnt get the shifter to get over to 1st or 2nd gear. i had to wiggle it around and push down on the shift knob and it eventually went over. Happened a few more times yesterday and like twice on my way to work today. It feels kind of sticky or something, not really moving as freely as it used to. What could be causing this?
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Okay, my shifter rod got spun, and now it doesn't want to go into any gears. Just freely kinda swirls, and you can't push down. The guy working on the car wants to pull the shift box down and see what is going on. He thinks the shift cable or selector cable is broke.
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The issue with the car is that the tranny won't go into any gear. With clutch in or out. I had very little play left or right or up and down. Not sure what could be wrong. The car has 120k miles and no mods.
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Out of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
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This is my first DSG car and I find it un-natural to push the stick forward as I am accelerating then pull it backwards to downshift.
I feel that I would prefer to pull back when accelerating 1-2-3-4 and then push forward as I am decelerating 4-3-2-1...
Is there a way to modify the direction with Vag-Com or other?
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