Golf IV R32 :: Shifter Moves Depending On Throttle Position?
Apr 14, 2011
When I am in 6th gear (this only happens in 6th) the shifter kicks forward (towards the front of the car) about a quarter inch when I let off of the gas. When I press the gas again the shifter kicks back (towards the back of the car) a quarter inch.
I believe that this is caused by the haldex disengaging, because no matter how slowly I let off of the throttle, the kick is the same strength (or force? dont really know how to describe it). I was wondering if this is normal, or if I should get it checked out?
When I searched the only thing that came up was checking the mounts. I'm not sure this is the solution to my problem since this ONLY happens when I am in 6th gear, all other gears feel solid.
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Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
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So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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So long story short I picked up a 2003 Hyundai accent 5 speed 80xxx miles for $1,000 almost two years ago, vehicle has been running great but the shifter always felt loose and it feels really weird going into second (kinda like the shifter really falls far into gear) I was online searching and found other different type of Hyundai vehicles with the same issue and they replace the shifter bushings oem or after market and fixes the issue. I called hyundai and gave them my vin and they told me for my vehicle they don't sell the bushings , i would need to buy a whole new cable.
My questions is am I looking at the correct place to replace my shifter bushing on the trans or is there something else I should be looking at? Shifter has been getting to the point where it hurts my wrist to shift, I've already replaced the trans fluid and its not hard to go into gear, just feels loose and if I try and go fast and shift fast the car will probably grind second due to the shift lever.
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My 2008 lexus GX470 shifter moves but wont go into gear into gear and A/TP dash light is on. However it will go into gear when I have it in 4 high or low. Is the transmission shot?
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last night I was on my way to work and had the car in forth traveling about forty-five. A light ahead of me turned red and I held the clutch in until I had stopped. I shifted into what I thought was first. I discovered that regardless of the shifter position, the transmission left it in forth gear. Barely got it moving from a stop and brought it back home.
Looking under the car, I don't know exactly what the linkage mechanism looks like. I'm not sure how to tell if it has been disconnected or misaligned. I don't know if the problem is in the transmission itself either. The shifter moves to other positions freely, but in actuality it stays locked in forth gear.
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2004 VW R32, No engine mods. I did have the vacuum line sealed off for the flapper mod for about 3 months but is is now back to normal.
I've got the MIL, ESP, and EPC lights on and scanning codes as follows:
Code-P0222
Definition:
- Throttle pedal position (TPP) sensor/switch "B"
- Circuit Low
Explanation:
- Open or short circuit condition
Probable Cause:
- Poor Electrical Connection
- Faulty TPP sensor
- Faulty throttle valve control module
I don't know much about the situation but I took it to my friends shop first where we replaced the Throttle body, intake, and MAF. Didn't fix the problem so I took it to my local VW dealership and the tech's exact words were.."the codes coming up as a throttle pedal sensor. Is there perhaps a sensor by the pedal that I could check?
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Am getting an EPC light + limp mode + code for accelerator position sensor (implausible signal). I have swapped out the pedal assembly, so it isn't the sensors themselves, and we've checked the wiring to the pedal assembly... I can feel in-car, and I can see via VAG-COM that one of the two sensors is basically toggling between a sensible % reading of pedal position at one moment, and then zero % the next, and of course every time the sensor reads zero, the ECU notes the error and cuts power... but this only happens when the steering wheel is straight or when turning to the right; I can drive around in a leftward circle all day and night without this occurring.
Why? What is there in the steering (either in the column or at the wheels, or basically any place in between) which, if malfunctioning, could affect the accelerator position sensors in one way or another (i.e. either through the normal operation of a safety system, or through a short or other electrical gremlin)?
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I have a 2000 GTI GLX VR6 and when I start it in the morning (ie cold) after the initial "choke" and the revs drop it becomes erratic. Sometimes it will stall out. If I restart the car it will throw a check engine light and go into limp mode. If I let the car warm up it runs fine. If the car has been driven and is relatively warm it runs fine. Initially there were several codes but after replacing the MAF and the fuel pump relay the only remaining code is P1545.
My mechanic seems to think it may be the coolant temperature sensor. The code seems to indicate the problem is the throttle. "Throttle position control malfunction". Not sure why warming it up makes a difference (unless of course it is the temp sensor). When I replaced the MAF sensor I did clean the throttle body. I was very careful in doing so. Problem existed prior to my cleaning it as well. After changing the fuel pump relay things were better for a few days but then the problem returned.
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The throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
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I have a 2003 Lexus GS 300 with 125k. Two problems. First, the back doors don't lock or unlock electronically (well, very rarely one will unlock). The only way to lock/unlock them is to manually reach around. It started with the driver's side back door almost two years ago, and in the past 7-8 months the other one started doing the same thing.
Also, the steering wheel automatically moves out of position when the key is removed, and automatically back into position when the car is started. A nice feature, but the steering wheel screams when it moves up and down. It's loud and embarrassing.
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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I have a 2010 RX350 base model, no navi...
I turned off the "easy entry/exit function" and when I turn off the car the steering wheel still automatically moves into the most upward position. It's only suppose to do this with the function on.
Is something broken? Should I get this fixed?
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Having throttle hesitation problems. This is the 3rd time I have had it in for this problem and they can't figure out what is wrong. The vehicle moves slightly forward from a stop and then goes dead for a few seconds then seems to recover and go.
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Problem I am having with my '04, my shifter stays in the "D" position when selected. The previous owner said it did not use to do that when new, it does not do it when "R" or "B" are selected, so perhaps something inside is awry or something was spilled on it. I thought I may take it apart and clean/lube it.
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Car in question is my 2003 Jetta 1.8t with the 09A 5 Speed Automatic. For the past 2 or 3 months these have been the symptoms: 1st to 2nd gear, very hard shift depending on RPM's (Higher the RPM's the harder the shift) 2nd to 3rd gear, not really hard but it kinda 'flares' the gearbut still shifts. All other gears are fine, although if you accelerate hard out of 4th it will have a little bit of a hard shift. I'm thinking either solenoids, or the speed sensor?
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Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
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My RX350 is over 4yrs old with 105k km on it. I notice lately when I drive off the seat moves back a bit and when braking hard it moves forwards. It is about quarter of an inch movement but it is noticeable. I guess it is not under warranty now. I looked under the seat but can not find where this is coming from, I am assuming it must be a loose bolt that needs to be tightened.
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My son who is away at college, has a 04 F150 that has a center console and he can't get the truck to shift out of the 'Park' position. I told him to try and rock the truck back and forth and then try again...no luck.
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I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
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