Golf IV R32 :: Seat Frame Broke - What To Do
Dec 6, 2013
Over the past few months I've been hearing a popping sound from under my seat when I move a certain way and figured it was just the cold or another new sound well today I found out it was the seat frame mount and it finally snapped, pictures to follow.
Went to the dealer they quoted part/labor is gonna be around $1000 so I took it to a friends shop to see if he can weld it or if it's too far gone, should be getting it fixed this week, for now it's zip ties and really cautious driving.
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Recently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
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Squeaky springs from the seat back on the driver's seat? I know it's not the seat cushion because as soon as I lean back on the seatback, it squeaks. It's driving me crazy now when I hit a bump or travel over rougher pavement.
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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My '99 Explorer XL has the standard bucket seats. After having two owners (first one '99-09, then me '09-present) climbing in and out over 11 years and 95,000 miles, the driver's seat has broken down on the left side near the reclining lever. Every time I go around a right turn, I feel like Im going to tip over against the driver's door. Is there a replacement cushion for these Explorers?
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I bought a set of Ranger seats for my 1957 Ford project. My question is the drivers side seat reclining mechanism is broke. I believe the seats are out of an STX or sport model, they have a slide out bolster and power lumbar and side bolsters.
Where to get a replacement mechanism. The mechanism works the handle is busted off. It is from an extra cab so the handle is a two way for the driver and or if anyone in the back wanted to use it. I think they may be from a 1992, only say this because I had one backin the day with these kind of seats.
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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I am about to install my coils and I just wanted to ask what is the lowest drop you can have without having to notch the frame for the axle? I have read most of you guys bang your axle on your frame and dent it or just mark it up but would 23.5" ftg be a problem for daily driving?
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I am trying to take my stock headers and flex pipe out, I have removed the all the bolts but cant seem to get the pipes out between small space between the subframe and the firewall. how to drop the subframe to get these pipes out?
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Where i can get my hands on a Fukengruven license plate frame?
Any pics of the Platypus tow hook mount on their car?
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Do we suffer from this clunking noise as well? I know I have rattles and things that make noise over bumps and humps in the road. But is this what I hear?
[URL] .....
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Frame notch went smooth, we pulled the bag and disconnected the axle from the hub and just pulled everything out of the way. When we reassembled everything, the wheel now pokes 3/4-1 inch more than it did before. We pulled the axle back out and realigned it and made sure it seated properly and messed with the strut and its bolt to make sure there was no play or anything (it was reinstalled with the same orientation), but nothing seemed to change it. Could just disconnecting those two things cause the camber to go out of whack that badly? When installing the bags I didn't run into this issue and the camber was barely even off when I got it aligned. Trying to find out what could possibly cause it to get that far off. When I installed the bags the camber and toe barely even changed.
Also, I can't even air out all the way now because the wheels were a perfect fit before, and now they poke too much... but with 17 psi in the right front bag, the axle is dangerously close to the turbo outlet. Seems to feel like barely a business card could fit between the two. The frame notch was done correctly and was the 5th one my buddy has done.
1912298_10201505446825691_1396899283_n by Chadillac910, on Flickr
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The other day the plastic top piece of my shift knob broke off (that had the shift pattern painted on it) and it made me once again want to replace the stock shift knob. I was considering buying one, but other than TWM I can't find any that I really like, so I want to machine one myself. My biggest problem in planning right now is what metal to use, SS is nice but expensive, and how to attach it to the leather and the stick. The only way I can think of attaching it to the stick is with set screws which would be hard to drill.
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One of the nozzles on the back of my intake manifold broke off. I don't know how to better explain it. The ones the back of the manifold closest to the firewall there are several hoses that hook to the manifold. The second one from the left broke.
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I was putting on the H& R sports springs tonight and was onto the last corner, front passenger when one of the 3 ball joint bolts broke off. It was so rusted that the nut didn't want to come loose. I used too much force and out came the piece. Do I just go buy a new ball joint at the local VW dealer and swap it out. I didn't touch the other two and the car is still driveable. It's the middle one, exactly as shown in this photo from the DIY.
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In the process of selling my mk4 gti 12V, anyways. this morning while taking pics I went to pop the hood and the lever (one by the pedals in car) felt really lose and it didn't pop the hood. I'm assuming the cable either broke or disconnected, oddly enough it was working fine last night. Is there a way to get the hood open without the lever? I know my way around a car, just have never encountered this problem...
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After the update the phone still pairs no problem. Haven't tried Bluetooth audio but when making calls connection appears to mute? The call doesn't drop and I can hear the caller but they sporadically can't hear me.This is in my wife's 2011 Golf with RCD510.
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta 2.0 overheated and then broke down after making some pretty awful clanking noises. Now it will not start. I'm going to be doing the repairs myself (and learning a lot along the way).
The car will not start. When I try to start it, it makes a 'whining' noise, which I'm assuming is the starter. This is not the first repair I've done on her car. She wants to get rid of it, but now that I've done so much work on it, I've grown a bit attached to it. Plus I think I can save her a bunch of money in the long run If I fix this myself. Here's where I am so far:
I removed the cover over the camshaft pulley and had a look while my SO turned the key to try to start the car. I noticed a couple things:
1. There are no teeth on the timing belt.
2. The camshaft pulley still turns, but not continuously. It turns a little then stops, and then tries again. (Engine not seized?)
I have ordered a code reader which should be here in a couple days. With that I'm hoping to check if there's a compression problem. If so, I'm under the impression that that would indicate a blown head gasket, or bent valves. I checked the oil to see if it looks milky and It still looks like regular oil.
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The kid came out today. My friend has a late E320 MBZ and went for a spirited drive. from 20 I pulled on him hard. But back to the title..
I made a U turn in 1st gear with light throttle and then half way through the turn I nailed it causing the rear to break loose and get sideways. My buddy saw smoke coming from the rear tires too.
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I have a 99 vw jetta the coolant outlet flange nipple became brittle and broke...its the smaller 1/2 size hose not the two larger ones. Not sure how much coolant actually flows thru there and want to know if i can drive it a couple miles to a shop without it hurting the engine. I believe it's bone dry but don't know and i didnt want to add water since it's 32 degrees COLD. Don't want the water to freeze. The part comes in this weekend ...how far can i drive , with water no coolant....(vw coolant is expensive).
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My ball bearing on the tensioner seized and broke the belt. Does that happen all the time?? My car is a CP and right now it's only 36k miles..
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