Its been few month hearing this noise from my r32. Car has 54k miles currently.
I hear rumble? sound when I accelerate going uphill. It seems like coming from front side and only sounds 1-2sec.
I have 1997 Mazda 626 I4 5 speed manual transmission with 140k on it.
All of a sudden I am getting a horrible reoccurring vibration and noise that sounds like I'm driving on a rumble stripe at about 60MPH coming from the front end when accelerating.
It speeds up as I accelerate.If I push down my clutch or let off the gas it goes away immediately. While turning right it will go away immediately until I straiten it back out.It happens in any gear at any speed in any weather although it seems more likely to happen when everything is cold.It isn't always there and there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when it happens or clears up.
over the past two weeks my 2011 GTI seems to have gotten a bit louder and has a low frequency rumble when on the lower end of the gears (DSG). Any thoughts on this? From the exterior the car doesnt seem louder to me at all. I have a stage 1 APR and everything else stock
Maybe I am going nuts but it is bugging me!
The car: 2000 V6 4motion
The issue: When this started out, it was barely noticeable and I attributed it to bad tires but now I have new tires and am not sure what's going on. As I turn a corner and accelerate, I feel this quick rumble go through the car; it's somewhat akin to very briefly running over rumble strips on the side of the freeway. It can also happen if I accelerate with moderate force.
One drive shaft was replaced a few thousand miles back but I didn't think it could be that as it doesn't do it at any particular speed or for a prolonged time. I thought it had something to do with the transmission or rear differential but searching didn't turn up much.
My game plan is to get the transmission fluid and filter changed asap. Is this a appropriate action or if I should be sourcing a new transmission ? I just don't know the severity of the issue and it worries me.
I just bought this car last night from a guy with a dealer license. The car was used, so he sold it with an "as-is" statement. I've read there is a 2 day law to return used cars, but he never gave me this option.
I test drove the car but nothing appeared wrong except the heater did not blow hot, thought the car wasn't warmed up. May be unrelated. Anyways, driving on the interstate I noticed he pulled the battery before selling it to clear the trip memory, and all of that information. So I asked him and he said it was for a small part he installed (he showed me, it looks like a thermostat of some kind with a hose coming off of it, he did not know the name).
My '03 Grand Marquis "shudders" when I accelerate, especially up hills. It feels like it cuts in and out momentarily, shaking backward and forward. Here is what I have had done, based on mechanics' advice: replace spark plugs, replace fuel filter, clean throttle body, clean mass airflow sensor. It still does it after all this and I am stumped.
View 4 RepliesAbout 3 weeks after an oil change, my 01 Ford Ranger started knocking and smoking when I accelerated up hills. I checked the oil levels to find that it was completely empty. Refilled the oil, but the problem persisted. Tried gas additive--nothing. Finally limped into the Ford dealership where they kept my car for 6 weeks trying to figure out what the problem was. After new plugs, wires, MAF sensor, coil, and PCM the problem seemed to be fixed...mostly. Knocking and smoking eventually stopped until I checked the oil levels again and it was empty. Added oil which started the symptoms all over again. Mechanic ruled out blown gasket. Claims knocking and smoking are unrelated (even though they happen at the same time 100% of the time). Smoke is white. Knocking (at its worst) sounds like a bolt rattling around in engine. Car does not lose power, and when I gun the engine it seems to go away. Only happens going up hills (of which Tennessee has plenty of).
View 4 RepliesI've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
I have a 2008 Altima coupe SE V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 45,000 miles. Recently, I have been having an issue with cruise control when going uphill. It started that I could not accelerate using the cruise control button going uphill without the cruise control cancelling. If I hit the "resume" button, the cruise control would try and accelerate again and cancel out again. Since I took it in earlier this week, the cruise control has been cancelling whenever going up even a relatively modest hill whether I'm accelerating or not, so, whatever the issue is, it appears to be getting worse.
Assuming it was a problem with the cruise control itself (which would presumably be covered under warranty) I took the car to a Nissan dealer. They said that the clutch was wearing out and so the gear was slipping (or something) when the cruise control was trying to accelerate, causing the cruise control to cancel.
I was pretty shocked given that the car only has 45,000 miles on it and I don't grind the gears or ride the clutch. I spend a good bit of time in D.C. area traffic, but even considering that, 45,000 miles?? I did buy the car used, so it's possible that the previous owner did a number on the car in the first 10,000 miles or so, but it still seemed unlikely. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of the clutch dying except that recently, when I accelerate in 1st gear and am around the engagement point, occasionally there is sort of a metal-on-metal sound; almost like when breaks need new pads or something, but not as high pitched or loud.
Any thoughts on: a) if the issue is really the clutch, and b) if so, why it would cost so much to replace?
I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. Lately, we've been bothered by a sweet smell, particularly when coming to a stop at the bottom of a hill or acceleration uphill. The smell is most noticeable from the two front, center AC vents. The dealer swears it's not a hose or heater core issue. He also checked the cabin air filter. AC "on" and recirc "on" seem to exacerbate the problem.
View 3 Replies My GTI is about a month old and I just recently started to notice a slight crunchy sound if I accelerate from 1st gear really slow (right around 1k rpm, maybe a little higher). You have to be going pretty slow and it goes away the second it goes to 2nd gear. It's almost like a creaking wooden floor but more metallic sounding, or driving over a soda can... It's really hard to describe.
I noticed this about week 2, but it seems to have gotten a little louder since then, or maybe i'm just going crazy... I have my first complimentary check up tomorrow morning. They are also going to be installing the waste-gate clip for the rattle noise, which I also noticed after the first week or so.
I will post on the results when I bring it up to the dealer tomorrow. In the meantime. I've looked around and one forum seemed to have a similar sound described, and said it was also the wastegate rattle, just not in the typical 2k-3k rpm range... I'm just hoping it's not a finicky dsg/mechatronic issue with the clutch not disengaging correctly.
I have weird sound from the engine bay area when i accelerate. Some describe this sound as "pop rocks in a soda can", "rattling of metal washers" or "fast ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-". I read all the posts and apparently its the TSI engine's turbo's waste gate which is not replaceable because its riveted on to the turbo (FSI's turbo's waste gate was apparently bolted on) is responsible for the noise.
I thought something was loose in my engine bay. I thought it was just MY CAR, so I planned on mentioning it when i go in for my first oil change, but I ran into this thread and figured out that it is a widespread "annoyance" (not a "problem" because VW claims that this noise is "normal").
This noise comes in around 2400rpm~3000rpm on my car if you give it around 1/3 ~1/2 throttle. This noise can be replicated on my car on all the gears pretty much (i have DSG fyi) with the windows rolled up. (if you cant make it out, try rolling down the window)
The noise sounds horrible! (to me at least). It's like I am driving something that's put together poorly and it is also quite embarrassing when you have a passenger with you...
I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
2004 F150 FX4 5.4L. I drove from Vancouver to Edmonton and back this week and I started to get some issues. If I'm in overdrive at highway speeds, from about 90km/h to 120km/h give or take, which would be around 1600-2100rpm, and then I try to accelerate, sometimes on flats, rarely on downhills, but always on uphills, the truck will begin to jerk fore and aft. It feels like it's something through the driveline, either the driveshaft or the differential, but I really can't say for certain as I'm stuck in the driver's seat while this is happening.
If the truck downshifts or if I take it out of overdrive, i.e. getting the revs up high, the problem is no more. Other than the issue I'm having, it operates perfectly so this is very odd. I know that overdrive isn't a hill climbing gear, but normally an engine in the wrong gear will simply lug along until it's downshifted. The entire truck jerking shouldn't happen.
On my way to Edmonton, I noticed that this would cause one single, minor jerk. This is my way of describing it, but it was like the driveshaft had spun freely and then promptly re-engaged with the differential gear, causing a clunk. I doubt that's actually what happened, but I'm just trying to explain the sensation. It kind of feels like trailer jerking.
On the way back to Vancouver, it was a lot worse. Like I said, the whole truck would be jerking about once per second but there was one time that I found the sweet spot and it began jerking rapidly, twice per second. I threw it out of overdrive to stop this but the vibration caused the check engine light to flash a few times but it went away and didn't stay on.
What I might be up against? Been doing a little research. Seems as though this is common and it's supposedly the spark plugs, but those only have 50,000km on them.
I have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
Since recently buying my 2008 GX470 with 100K miles I have been trying to find what is making a low rumble sound when moving. I have checked everything underneath, tightening up a few things etc. to no avail. However recent experimenting with the shock settings from comfort to sport. It seems that the rumble is less when it is on comfort. So I am thinking the shocks themselves are making some noise.
View 10 RepliesMy wife drives a 2006 Honda Civic. She just drove back from Vermont - we live near Boston - and on her way back the idle was unusually rough and twice she said it felt as if she was driving over rumble strips, even though she was on smooth pavement. The first time she was going 40 and the second time she was barely moving. She also noted that once, at a stop sign, the car wouldn't slowly move forward when she took her foot off the brake, as it usually does. She had to give it gas. The thing is, the problem is very intermittent.
She says the only thing that is constant is the rough idle, but the engine check light is NOT on.
The last work that was done on the car, about a month ago, was the replacement of the calipers and shoes on one of the brakes. My wife had driven for some time with the squealing noise that indicates you need to change your brake shoes without telling anyone about it. She used the radio fix.
Had the torque converter replaced twice on my 2007 Explorer Limited last December. Ford dealer did it once and then there were still issues so they had to replace it again. All seemed fishy to me.
Now a new issue that sounds like driving over rumble strips. Torque converter?
I've been noticing a metal type 'clanking' sound whenever I am gently accelerating up a hill on my 2.4L.
It doesn't happen all the time though. It's not the usual GDI ticking sound. It can be heard when the windows are open but yet I can not tell where the sound is coming from. It doesn't happen enough that I can replicate it so I haven't taken it in for a check. The car drives fine though.
Sounds when going up a hill? Not sure if it's from the engine or from the transmission getting confused trying to change to the right gear. Perhaps the sound is just normal...
I purchased my 2014 GX a couple of months ago and already logged in about 2K. The car has been great so far. The only thing that I'm not so used to, is a strange feeling when accelerating or going uphill (even slightly) - I can feel the engine roar(?) through the steering wheel - I can't really describe it well - it's not a vibration per se, but more like you feel the engine working harder than usual through the slight vibration of the steering wheel. This is my first V8 car - I used to have a V6 Acura MDX before, and never felt that. There is a good chance this is normal for a V8 based truck, but I wanted to get others' input.
View 9 RepliesI just purchased my Elantra MD for just 2 years. Yesterday I went uphill (not steep) then decide to change from auto to manual, then I move the stick, it shows I am currently in gear 5 so i downshift to 4. After a few second the was a 'jerking' with 'thump' sound from the bay. My rpm came down slowly, i pushed the pedal but the rpm wont go up. it just glide. Shut down and up the engine changed nothing. When i try put reverse gear, it reversed fast as if i pushed the pedal, but i am not.
View 5 Replies