Golf IV R32 :: Rubbing Noise Inside Cabin / Clutch?
May 14, 2013
If the windows are closed you can hear it much better. The best way I can hear it is when I am stopped and i step on the gas just enough to get the rpms up. Another way to hear it is when I am at a red light on a hill and I am using the clutch. It's a rubbing sound but not as fast as the engine if that makes sense. Would that be the clutch? It doesn't matter whether the clutch is in or not, you can do it in neutral as well. Vw seems to think its the clutch but i have no slipping or anything. 65K miles no engine mods except intake.
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After battling the general nitwit public earlier. I was on my way home and as I neared my house, a party bus was blocking the road. Well, I got angry, shifted to reverse, revved the engine while letting out the clutch to back up and take a different route. Then this horrible burning electric/plastic smell inundated the inside of my R. I knew I rode that clutch while backing up. My question is did I do noticeable damage my clutch, or is it one of those: it'll be fine just don't do it again thing?
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Just curious, but me thinks wind noise is now present inside my cabin at speeds above 60mph. Noticed this around the B-pillar? Could it be that the doors "loosen up" their tight seal as the car pounds mercilessly over bumps? 8500 miles in 4 months!
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A 2 month old 2013 GTI cabin noise is driving me insane. Sounds like whistling or crickets inside the car and happens around 30 mph and above and its hard to point out the source. It is unaffected by vent positions, open or closed vents, air on or off so it makes me think its a seal somewhere. It is very loud :/
The dealership had it for a weekend to try and find the source but they said they taped every corner of it and the noise didnt go away. They also adjusted the doors and no change. Then they said other GTIs like my navi/convenience 2 door trim had them too but I wonder if its just BS.
Uploaded a video about it, but you will have to turn up your volume and wait for around 0:24 seconds in. My cellphone catches the noise faintly but it its loud if you ride in the car.
Do you have a noise that sounds like crickets or whistling and cant point out the source on a 2 Door too?
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I am hearing a squeaking noise by my right rear quarter panel inside the cabin. How to safely remove the panel. I tried searching but the instructions were vague.
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Should I be concerned or will it drain like normal? I thought it was dripping inside the cabin by the hollow plasticy thud sound it makes, makes me worry it's between the plastic layer and the door card.
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I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my Prius. A few weeks ago, there was a big rainstorm in California, and I accidentally backed into what I think was a storm drain under very deep water. I heard a big thunk, but there was no visible damage to the car. A few days later, I noticed a low groaning noise that comes from inside the cabin, somewhere around the center console/front passenger side. I usually only hear it when I am moving at low/moderate speeds and turning the wheel to the left, although occasionally if the road is bumpy I hear it with my wheels straight ahead. For a couple weeks, I thought the noise only happened when moving-- however, last Friday, I was sitting in the car, which was parked on a hill with the wheels curbed (steering wheel all the way to the left). I turned the car on, and immediately the car started groaning (even though the car was in park). Then, after about 30 seconds, the gas engine turned off (I think that's what happens when the car gets much quieter after idling for a bit) and the noise stopped. SO, it happened when the car was in park as well.
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my 2002 chevy s-10 started making an air/hissing noise inside the cab. It seems to be coming from around the air conditioner controls (center front). It hisses while running, whether moving or not, does not change when the air conditioner or fan is running or not, but does improve when accelerating quickly. What could this be and would it be an easy fix or a professional job (my husband restores old cars, but doesn't do a lot with the newer ones)?
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Just put on new wheels 19x8.5 all around on 235/35/19s. Figured to have no issues, not super low or anything. Passenger side front tire is rubbing on the inside well pretty good. Not on fenders as far as I can tell, just the actual inside of the wheel well. Fender liner is already out on that side as well. Not a thing on drivers side though, and the liner is still in. Thinking maybe just need an alignment.
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I have a 2004 G35 that has not given me many mechanical problems. However, before my last oil change, I noticed noise from my engine which I wasnt used to. After 2 days I checked the dipstick and there was almost no oil on it which greatly worried me. I put in two 10W30 bottles and got a normal oil change the next day. Its been a week now and I still hear this noise when I start my car and its idling (cant hear it while driving cuz of the normal engine/road noise). It almost sounds like a noise I would hear from my dad old 70s diesel benz's, just not as loud.
Its def mechanical but I can't figure out what it is or where exactly its coming from. Its been 10 days now since the noise first started and it doesn't seem to be going away. I just checked engine oil levels now and they are near max. When I open up the hood, I don't hear the noise ( over the normal engine/belt noise), but its very apparent once inside the car with the doors closed and windows up. I am worried my car might end up and die on me all of a sudden while on the freeway or if my transmission is going to go bad.
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I have grown extremely irritated over rattling inside the Touareg and decided to listen closely in an attempt to identify the guilty panels or whatever is causing all that noise that makes the cabin of my 2004 Touareg sound like the interior of a 1994 Ford Explorer with about 200,000 miles on it.
I identified the rear seat bench as a noise generator a while ago. I wrapped electrical tape around the latch bolts, but that didn't work too well. It seems that the rear middle arm rest rattles quite a bit in itself. The rest of the rattling seems to comes from the rear seat backs, but this is old news.
I noticed that the door panels (or at least that's what I thought) on the driver's door and right rear passenger door were rattling and creating a lot of noise. However, as much as I tried to hit (lightly) the door panel with the palm of my hand on different areas of the door panel, I couldn't get it to make the same noise.
After listening closer while I drove, it sounded like the doors themselves weren't quite closed. They sounded like they rattled on their latches. Something like taking off with a door ajar, but the noise isn't as pronounced. Then I remembered that every once in a while, during a visit to my friendly local car wash, water was entering my vehicle and accumulating on the rear seatbench. Upon closer inspection, I would notice that the water was getting in easily between the rubber door seal and and the door sill.
Two days ago, I decided to check something, and low and behold, I think I found the problem. Those two problem doors don't shut as tightly as the other two silent doors. I ran my fingers along the door crack near the door handles on all four doors and discovered that the two noisy doors "stuck out" some. Just a few millimeters (maybe 1 or 2 at most). I then tested it with a flat edge and it was even more apparent. I then stood behind the vehicle (far rear left and far rear right) and looked straight down the vehicle's edge and noticed that those two doors were sticking out.
I tried to loosen the door latches on the door sills to move the latches in a little, but I found that a T-40 torx is too small and a T-45 torx is too large. In fact, the T-40 worked on the top bolt on both front door sill latch hooks, but would strip the bottom bolt on the same door sill latch hooks. Those 8 point bolts are not torx (duh). I'll have to wait till Tuesday (Monday is a holiday here) to get this rattling fixed. I really hope that this eliminates most of the noises I am hearing. I notice that the front right door doesn't make any noise, and I also notice that that is the one door in the vehicle that needs to be shut extra hard in order for it the shut the first time. If it's not shut hard, it usually takes two or three tries to get it to shut. My 2003 GTI did this as well, with the very same door.
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I can smell the exhaust inside the cockpit when accelerating and high RPMs, but in nothing in normal driving. I checked the pipes for leaking but all is fine.
My friend suggested to remove the catalytic converters that might be blocked. the car Mileage is now 145000 KM....
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I have a 2011 Camry SE...and its very quiet inside when doing city driving...but as soon as i hit the highway and go beyond 60mph...i hear constant loud engine noise inside the cabin... (Sounds like tapets of a bike)
I talked to the dealership and they said it is normal as its a 2.5Ltr engine and its Sports tuned for higher pickup! Is this normal or i need to get something check?
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I have 06 gs300 AWD and recently it started to make that noise. At first I thought my shock/struts went bad and i had it inspect and they are good, ball joint and control arms also good. However, I do not know if strut mount is bad or not. When I go over small cracks i can hear rattles inside but when i let my windows down I hear less. I do not know if the window or door has to do something with it. It seems like coming from passenger side. Btw sometimes i do feel even dashboard rattles a bit.
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I noticed when driving on a rough surface/road (gravel, snowy road with sand) the there is a considerable amount of noise coming inside the cabin on the rear end especially.
When I was doing a quick wash today I just realized the sound is coming from the wheel base. On the rear and front end there is a plastic covering the wheel base. Sound proofing / undercoating wheel base.
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I am getting some rattling noise from the inside of the cabin between the front and rear passenger doors. I had the exact same thing happen on my first Phaeton at around 25000 Miles. What causes this??
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I'm new here to the F-150's forum although I've owned a few since 2001. I bought this F-150 '05 5.4L Lariat. Really nice truck. But when I purchased it, it had this weird noise inside the cabin. I thought because it had a camper on it that some tranny noise was coming up thru the camper and the rear cab. After taking camper off, the noise was still there. From everything I've read online, it could be rear pinion seal, differential bearing, tranny, front hubs, etc. I have left a video. Pay close attention to the little whine. Kinda hard to hear if your not listening for it.
Note- when i drive it is most definitely coming from the middle to rear of the truck. But I'm not ruling out anything. I have looked underneath the truck and the differential is dry and the driveshaft area near diff is dry. No leaks. I have not checked fluid in diff. Is there an easy way for these trucks? I have read and heard about adding an additive? The noise starts at about 10-15 mph all the way up to 80. I've never taken it past 80 but I'm sure it's still there.
[URL] .....
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We own a 2013 RX 350, purchased less than a year ago. We are experiencing this rattling noise coming from inside the side panels, its frequency changes depending on road and weather conditions like if road is rough or if its windy. We have taken the vehicle to Lexus Service three times so far for the same issue, they have acknowledged the issue. Last service took almost a month but still no remedy.
As of last service, Lexus took the entire roof liner down to fix the issue but it came back after one day post service.
Noise is extremely irritating because it occurs next to driver's left ear and is annoying as anything can be. Same goes for right ear for the front passenger.
We have owned Nissan Maxima, BMW and Lexus before and none of the vehicles had this issue.
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I have a 1999 Ford Taurus. I have noticed a faint knocking sound for about 6 months. I took it in and the mechanic said ' what noise? '. Then it got louder so I took ot back in and he ssid 'bad water pump' I had another mechanic friend check, and he said the water pump was fine. Plus, I've never had any overheating . a 3rd mechanic said "could be loose torque converter bolts." It sounds like metal clunking on metal under the hood.. rpms, speed, & temperature make no difference. Occasionally get a smell of coolant inside the cabin . I'll attach audio of the noise.
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I have a Mk VII R manual transmission with only 500 miles on it, but I'm having an issue that I think some of you may have experienced. My clutch is perfectly smooth when idling or in neutral, but there is a slight "gritty" feel or like rubbing against sandpaper when I lift up the clutch, mostly in 1st or 2nd gear and just when I give it throttle and the car starts moving or when the clutch engages. I thought maybe I was crazy but I did a search and found multiple people with this same issue on the MK VI R's.
[URL] ....
And this one: [URL] ....
I've got 500 miles now, so I'm going to wait until 1000 to bring it to the dealer.
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So your clutch pedal operates properly, the clutch engages with no issues, but this annoying squeak, snap, crackle, and pop noise keeps coming from the clutch pedal within the cabin.
Could it be your clutch master cylinder? CMC is not leaking in the engine bay and the driver footwell. Not the CMC.
Could it be your clutch switch that's used to control revs and cruise control? Removed it and clutch pedal still made noises when pressing and releasing the pedal. Not the CS.
Could it be the over-center spring that sits behind the clutch pedal assembly? How could it be? It's just a spring. Springs that compress in that orientation don't make snap, crackle, and pop noises.
What most people fail to realize is the noise is coming from the pedal assembly, but it's not the pedal structure or the pedal. It's the pivot point where it mates with the clutch pedal mounting bracket. At the pivot point are two bushings (one on each side of the pedal structure) that wears out over time creating these noises.
Please look up the part number for these bushings. They look like the following at this link but these are aftermarket upgrades for BMW's.[URL] ....
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