When I started the r the idle was bouncing between 500-900rpms, start driving as soon as I start to slow down the car would shut off and the battery light lights up. When it stopped shutting off on me when I slowed down/pushed in the clutch the esp light came on and wont go off ....
View 7 RepliesI have a B5 99.5 AEB and having rough idling. Started the car in the morning seem fine. Later that evening started up again in a warm up idle and then the car shut off. Tried starting up again but took couple of minutes. Pumped the gas piddle started up but looking at the idle gauge needle was bouncing around. I don't think i have an vacuum leak.
View 2 RepliesMy R is acting up a bit today. I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. I'm not sure if I left the stereo on (it doesn't turn off when the key is removed and door opened. I have to disconnect the faceplate every time.) or what but it had just enough juice to unlock the doors and light up the some light LEDs. After I got home from work I went to jump it and it wouldn't even unlock. I had to use the key to manually unlock the door.
I was able to jump it just fine and took it for a drive. It idled high sometimes and would drop down to roughly 400-600 RPM. Driving the car, it was clearly lacking power and not running properly and the traction control light came on. I parked it in the driveway and took a video of the idle, shut the car off and started it up again. This time, the idle seems normal but it doesn't feel as responsive or powerful as it was before today. The traction control light is still on as well. If I rev the engine up, it'll drop down to around 1,100-1,200 rpm, sit for a few seconds then finally drop to 800.
I just got it about three weeks ago and haven't done anything to the car. Hopefully this is something minor because I don't really feel like dropping a ton more money on a car I just bought.
2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
View 8 RepliesI've noticed more and more recently that I've been having hard rumbling starts and not from the exhaust note either. Its not like I have to hold down the PTS button long either but it just starts hard and turns off pretty rough too and its not even after driving it for long periods. Even driving for 10-15 minutes I have this issue.
View 7 RepliesSo after taking my car to the stealership to get defective door seals fixed, I start driving home and I realize the front tire is flat. After changing to the awesome 17" spare, I decide to get gas. After filling the car up, it started for a few seconds running real rough and then shut off. I tried restarting it multiple times for about 10 minutes and the car kept turning over, but no start. I finally just shut it completely off for five minutes and it restarted, but is running roughly with the CEL light on and another green light, EPL, or something like that. I was able to drive home, but the check engine light is on still and runs like crap.....Back to the dealership in the morning. What this could be? I noticed lately sometimes when I push the gas hard it kinds of bogs down for a sec before accelerating. I had them check this and they said nothing looked wrong when they tested it. Fuel pump maybe?
View 13 RepliesWell, truck did it again last night. Shut down to idle, wrench light came on. My Edge Insight showed P2104, Throttle Actuator Control System-Forced Idle. This is the third time it's done it over several months. Took it to Ford again, they didn't find anything. First time they replaced the throttle control unit. He's talking about RF interference but ignition & alternator checked ok. Each time it's done it has been in the same place, Sacramento Raceway. This is getting ridiculous, can't just drive it & show them because it's only done it over several months period.
View 14 Replies2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
View 5 RepliesOnce in a while, I notice that my TDI has a rough idle. It feels more like a shake in the seat than rough idle. But I don't know how else to describe it. This usually happens at warm up- after driving about 5-10 minutes.
View 15 RepliesI've been having this problem lately, when its a hot day the car revs up passing the 1000rpm's or when I am in traffic for a long period of time it does the same and its stays there for a while ( like 5 mins) then returns back to normal. Heres a video so you can see of what I am talking about... [URL] .....
View 10 RepliesSymptoms:
- rough start-up, car shuts down
- backfire when releasing after WOT
- OBD-II codes (see below)
Okay so these issues started to appear only 1 day after I got tuned...
Problem History:
Day 1:
- car started mildly rough
- I got an EPC light on my dash 2 minutes after moving and for 2 seconds the car sounded like an STI (the sound you hear with a misfire)
- I turned it off and on, EPC gone car started up normally
- took it straight to dealer, they checked coils and plugs and said that it's a tune issue.
- went to take it back from the dealer and that was the first time the car shutdown immediately after start-up. it started at second attempt with a quite long ignition sound and the STI-like sound briefly once again.
Day 2:
- I went to my friend and we pulled the codes from OBD-II and only got the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code only (as the dealer probably erased any other code related to my EPC light)
- we deleted the code and drove around
- every time we turn the car off and on. The car starts up mildly rough and the code comes back up
Every 2 days or so:
- the car would require 2 attempts to start but no EPC light coming up.
Day 4:
- I had a night of possibly 6 WOTs to test the cars performance, and it was performing great. didn't feel any loss in power or anything. (was friendly racing my friends modded 135i with very impressive outcomes)
- car backfires after i release the gas pedal at WOT (not with every WOT but 2 out of 6 runs it backfired)
- After the last WOT i got the EPC light. turned the car off and let her relax for 5 minutes.
- car took 2 attempts to startup. with severe roughness and shakes (as if the car is cammed V8 engine) for 5 seconds and then back to normal.
Now since the EPC light came back on i wanted to check if there is another code from the OBD-II. I was hoping that the issue will only be the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code but my fears were true and i got another very annoying code
This is last nights code pull
2 Faults Found:
14914 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
[Code] .....
Day 7:
- The car had the sever start-up roughness again
As I'm trying to find a solution for my problem here are the steps i took/will take:
- took it to the dealer for nothing.
- ordered an O2 sensor extender for the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code and i hope it's somewhat related to the start-up issue. it will arrive today or tomorrow.
- once the extender is here, I'll take it to an exhaust shop to install the extender and check for any DP/Exhaust leaks
- I will take it to a mechanic to check any leaks in all intake/air connectors and piping, any leaks in DV (I have forge recirculating DV), Boost pressure sensors (the piggy back was connected to them and one might be loose when we removed it), spark plugs and coils.
When exiting off the freeway and stopping at the light, my car felt as though it was bucking and idling very rough. I put the car in Neutral and it subsided a bit but the lit gauges were pulsing with the idle. It felt as though the car was going to die. I put the car back into Drive and it drove fine. I pulled over and shut the car off. There were no warnings or any other indicator lights on during this time. After shutting the car off and leaving it for a couple mins, I started it back up and the engine light was now on steadily. The rough/bucking idle was present as well. I ended up driving the car to the dealer where it is now being diagnosed and I haven't heard back.
View 6 RepliesSo far I have only experienced this once (today). I was on the freeway which ends and becomes a State Route. When I stopped for a traffic light the idle became rough. I put the car in neutral and gave it a little gas and it seemed fine. It has not done that again at this time. No CEL or anything came on. What do you think?
View 6 RepliesSo last night my battery died, and nobody around me had jumper cables.....so I was forced to bump start the car
It worked, but now the idle is really rough. At a stop in neutral the revs stay between 800-1800 sometimes. When I'm up shifting, every time I left off the clutch the revs jump about 200 rpm and now I have a CEL.
What could have happened?
So today I went for a drive in my mkvi gti with apr stage 1 and an intake and the car was idling rough and then as i pressed the clutch to take it out of gear and brake the car would rev up to about 3k and drop ant go up and down a couple times until it returned to normal idle and still it would idle rough and this happens every time i press the clutch to take the car out of gear. also on a cold start it would jump up to like 3k and then slowly drop down.
View 4 RepliesSo this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
View 6 RepliesIf my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?