I've been having this problem lately, when its a hot day the car revs up passing the 1000rpm's or when I am in traffic for a long period of time it does the same and its stays there for a while ( like 5 mins) then returns back to normal. Heres a video so you can see of what I am talking about... [URL] .....
View 10 RepliesSo I have a 95 aerostar 3.0. I use it every day my a delivery vehicle. I keep it maintained. About a month that ago, it developed a skip or a hesitation, most!y at high speeds, usually under load. I thought it may be transmission but had it checked and was ok. I drove it like that for several weeks. Then got worse so I parked it for ten days until my mechanic was available. When I cranked it to drive it over, it spit and sputtered the whole way here and barely made it. It had never done that before. He changed plugs and wires and distributor cap, even though it had been less than a year since all that had been done. Still no change. Driving way worse after sitting for ten days.
View 6 RepliesHad an interesting problem with my 2006 Camry (134k miles - all maintenance up to date). After returning from trip, I went to start my 2006 Camry LE and it turned over but never started. After a couple more tries, I stepped on the accelerator while turning the key and it finally started. It's starting and running fine now but that is the first time that has ever happened. The car sat for 5 days.
View 3 RepliesOnce in a while, I notice that my TDI has a rough idle. It feels more like a shake in the seat than rough idle. But I don't know how else to describe it. This usually happens at warm up- after driving about 5-10 minutes.
View 15 RepliesSymptoms:
- rough start-up, car shuts down
- backfire when releasing after WOT
- OBD-II codes (see below)
Okay so these issues started to appear only 1 day after I got tuned...
Problem History:
Day 1:
- car started mildly rough
- I got an EPC light on my dash 2 minutes after moving and for 2 seconds the car sounded like an STI (the sound you hear with a misfire)
- I turned it off and on, EPC gone car started up normally
- took it straight to dealer, they checked coils and plugs and said that it's a tune issue.
- went to take it back from the dealer and that was the first time the car shutdown immediately after start-up. it started at second attempt with a quite long ignition sound and the STI-like sound briefly once again.
Day 2:
- I went to my friend and we pulled the codes from OBD-II and only got the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code only (as the dealer probably erased any other code related to my EPC light)
- we deleted the code and drove around
- every time we turn the car off and on. The car starts up mildly rough and the code comes back up
Every 2 days or so:
- the car would require 2 attempts to start but no EPC light coming up.
Day 4:
- I had a night of possibly 6 WOTs to test the cars performance, and it was performing great. didn't feel any loss in power or anything. (was friendly racing my friends modded 135i with very impressive outcomes)
- car backfires after i release the gas pedal at WOT (not with every WOT but 2 out of 6 runs it backfired)
- After the last WOT i got the EPC light. turned the car off and let her relax for 5 minutes.
- car took 2 attempts to startup. with severe roughness and shakes (as if the car is cammed V8 engine) for 5 seconds and then back to normal.
Now since the EPC light came back on i wanted to check if there is another code from the OBD-II. I was hoping that the issue will only be the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code but my fears were true and i got another very annoying code
This is last nights code pull
2 Faults Found:
14914 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
[Code] .....
Day 7:
- The car had the sever start-up roughness again
As I'm trying to find a solution for my problem here are the steps i took/will take:
- took it to the dealer for nothing.
- ordered an O2 sensor extender for the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code and i hope it's somewhat related to the start-up issue. it will arrive today or tomorrow.
- once the extender is here, I'll take it to an exhaust shop to install the extender and check for any DP/Exhaust leaks
- I will take it to a mechanic to check any leaks in all intake/air connectors and piping, any leaks in DV (I have forge recirculating DV), Boost pressure sensors (the piggy back was connected to them and one might be loose when we removed it), spark plugs and coils.
I had my 2005 Prius sitting idle for three days and when I last used the car it had 6 bars of battery (blue). Today I turn it on and it has only 2 bars of battery (purple) and the engine stayed on about 10 minutes to charge the battery. After about 10 minutes it went all the way to 7 bars (green) and the engine did its normal idle stop. Is it normal for the battery to drain that much in only a few days?
View 4 RepliesSo last night my battery died, and nobody around me had jumper cables.....so I was forced to bump start the car
It worked, but now the idle is really rough. At a stop in neutral the revs stay between 800-1800 sometimes. When I'm up shifting, every time I left off the clutch the revs jump about 200 rpm and now I have a CEL.
What could have happened?
My R is acting up a bit today. I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. I'm not sure if I left the stereo on (it doesn't turn off when the key is removed and door opened. I have to disconnect the faceplate every time.) or what but it had just enough juice to unlock the doors and light up the some light LEDs. After I got home from work I went to jump it and it wouldn't even unlock. I had to use the key to manually unlock the door.
I was able to jump it just fine and took it for a drive. It idled high sometimes and would drop down to roughly 400-600 RPM. Driving the car, it was clearly lacking power and not running properly and the traction control light came on. I parked it in the driveway and took a video of the idle, shut the car off and started it up again. This time, the idle seems normal but it doesn't feel as responsive or powerful as it was before today. The traction control light is still on as well. If I rev the engine up, it'll drop down to around 1,100-1,200 rpm, sit for a few seconds then finally drop to 800.
I just got it about three weeks ago and haven't done anything to the car. Hopefully this is something minor because I don't really feel like dropping a ton more money on a car I just bought.
So today I went for a drive in my mkvi gti with apr stage 1 and an intake and the car was idling rough and then as i pressed the clutch to take it out of gear and brake the car would rev up to about 3k and drop ant go up and down a couple times until it returned to normal idle and still it would idle rough and this happens every time i press the clutch to take the car out of gear. also on a cold start it would jump up to like 3k and then slowly drop down.
View 4 RepliesSo this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
View 6 RepliesIf my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
Just yesterday cranked my car for the first time after complete engine rebuild!! Before starting I cranked it couple of time with the spark plugs out and fuel injection still on. This was to get the oil/fuel pressure up.
After that torqued everything in place and it jumped to life instantly. The car runs really smoothly. No clicks or ticks and all the timing chain noise in gone for good. I warmed the engine with 1500-2000rpm and checked for leaks.
Only minor one was in the oil filter housing, couple of drops came between the cooler and the housing. (this was oil)
Fans, thermostat and basically the whole cooling system worked good. Lifted the reservoir up to get the air out, worked just good.
Mate was inside the car to look the revs and checking the stats in VAG-COM.
But... It was really hard to keep the revs between 1500-2000rpm and with a slight touch of the gas pedal it you could adjust it but it wanted to go over the needed all the time. When you lift the pedal just a little the rpm sank pretty fast.
When you take the foot of the pedal completely the idle RPM drops to 600-640 according to VAG-COM
What could cause this?
-vacuum issue?
-does not having brakes installed affect this?
All is torqued by the Bentley manual. I still have the steering rack and the brakes uninstalled (calipers off)
Videos from the startup:
Without plugs: [URL] .....
With plugs: [URL] ....
When I started the r the idle was bouncing between 500-900rpms, start driving as soon as I start to slow down the car would shut off and the battery light lights up. When it stopped shutting off on me when I slowed down/pushed in the clutch the esp light came on and wont go off ....
View 7 RepliesYesterday when I went to start my week old PIP, the battery was drained. There was no power to start and no power to the dome lights etc. I got out the owners manual and on page 594 there were instructions to jump start which I did. I drove it to the dealer and they checked it out. They said the 12V battery state of charge was 50% after being jumped and driven for 30 minutes. They then charged it to a full state of charge. They couldn't find any other drain overnight.
I am trying to determine why this happened. The reason was not apparent. No interior lights were left on. There were no other electronics attached. We had driven the preceding two days in EV mode virtually exclusively. I don't recall if the ICE came on. The car sat unused for 36 hours. It had been plugged in to charge the traction battery and it charged via the timer without any apparent errors.
The service tech wondered if the battery had been fully charged prior to delivery. I know the traction battery had not been fully charged because I was anxious to take delivery. Could this be a consequence of driving in EV mode almost exclusively?
A few days ago I noticed a very rough idle first start of the day, this happened twice, then on my way to a show this morning, I lost most power for about 15 miles, boost would not go above 0hg, all the sudden on the highway,BOOM, back to normal...during all of this no engine light or CELS were displayed. Scanned the car later in the day and the only thing that showed up were some random fueling errors, cleaned the codes from the memory and so far so good all is fine!
View 18 Replies After putting on a o2 spacer my CEL cleared. I finally got some downtime so I parked the car in the garage to chase electrical gremlins, do the timing belt, and replace the downpipe and catalytic converter. Lately it's been sounding like I have quite the exhaust leak so that spurred me into doing a little quicker. Long story short I got the cat out and after looking inside of it I see this .
The inside of the cat is completely bare, not even a remnant of any form of honeycomb. So was this a hollowed out cat or did everything deteriorate and blowout. I was assuming my cat was clogged because of my rough idle lately... but looks like I was dead wrong.
Now for additional info.
2001 Jetta 2.0 AEG 220K miles
Previously had a CEL for the catylst below threshold
I can't currently check my codes because the OBD2 isn't reading/connecting, but that's not related.
Woke up to go to work and it started up with a rough idle, got a block down the road and it had a slight miss under acceleration. Guessing its a bad coil, I've got a spare featured I'd play I I mini miny moe when I get home unless.
View 5 RepliesThe problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
View 1 Replies2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
View 5 Replies2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...