Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
View 9 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
View 4 RepliesI just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
View 2 RepliesI just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
View 12 RepliesOver the last few weeks the clutch in my 6mt will occasionally stick in. Doesn't happen often, maybe once or twice during my commute to work. So, when i let my foot off the clutch, the pedal will either come back slowly or stop about half way out. there has been 2 occasions now where I've had to get behind it with my foot to pull it all the way out. Does it just need to be bled?
I have about 20k miles on the car now.
So I was living in Texas for the past 4 months and noticed my clutch started to act up. It was sticking at the engagement point and sometimes I would need to pull the pedal up with my foot. Also sometimes when I was engaging the clutch, the pressure on my foot from the pedal would suddenly disappear. I had an hour commute to and from work when I was down there and frequently was in stop-and-go traffic.
Fast forward to now, I am back up in New York. It is much colder here and I don't drive nearly as much. I took it into the dealership to have it looked at. My car sat for a day before the tech could take it for a drive. I received a call saying that the problem could not be replicated and everything seemed fine. I picked my car up and it hasn't happened as frequently as before but it is still doing it. I think it has something to do with temperature.
So I've been dealing with this for a little while now and it's starting to really irritate me. With my 850, when cold, it drives awesome- perfect engagement, pressure, etc. When hot, I'm noticing that even with the pedal to the floor while in gear, I might get a few 'jerks' until it frees up. Also engaging while hot (in traffic) can sometimes cause rapid 'jerks' which leads to stalling, the pedal engagement is all over the place and you really have to know how to drive the car, just to get it right.
Now I've bled the line about 4 times now in the last three years and it seems to improve slightly (maybe placebo effect), but I'm not looking into it maybe being the grease on the input shaft? I know we greased the throwout bearing and input shaft, but it was a very light coating since I was nervous about getting grease on a $2400 clutch.
I recently replaced my clutch and I've noticed that occasionally, while downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, I hear a clunk sound that comes from beneath the back seats. Especially if my throttle bliping is not aggressive enough. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta GLS with 125K miles and standard transmission. Just had the clutch completely replaced. After I picked the car up, I ran some errands, turning the car off and on a few times. Then the ABS/traction control light came on. I tested the brakes, which seem fine, and accelerated on some ice, with no flashing light like usual, so that's a concern. Came home and used the VAG software - no fault codes came up. Went back to mechanic, who said the clutch and this new issue are not related, but he checked my wiring, checked for fault codes, and took it for a test drive. Said he did make the flashing light come on. Turned the warning light off. It came back the next day.
My questions:
- Could this be related to the clutch being replaced?
- Is this something I should worry about, or just live with the light on?
The car is a 2011 GTI 2dr w/6 speed, 12,000miles, cat back exhaust and that's it. Recently when I get into my car in the morning when it is cold (social not that cold) and either put it in reverse or just take off from first the clutch makes a really loud whining noise. Generally, it will go away after a few minutes but sometimes it doesn't go away even after the car is warmed up.
The thing that is weird to me is the clutch isn't slipping at all, even on a hard pull. I know that VW's clutches don't have reputation for lasting that long but I would be pissed if they said it was my fault seeing I drive it nice 9 times out of 10. On another note, I had my leaking water pump replaced a couple weeks ago, ever since then after the car warms up something is making a loud noise that sounds exactly like when your ears are ringing. I popped the hood and it sounds like it coming from the rear of the engine bay but its really to hard to pinpoint exactly where.
I've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
View 4 RepliesCan switch out the R's clutch pedal for the Audi R8? Was in an Audi showroom yesterday and there was an R8, and it was actually open. It was manual and the clutch placement was perfect, way better than the R. I've got short legs, but the R8's reach was great. The R is a bit long for me.
I know that there is compatibility across Audi/VW platforms, but I'm not sure of the R8. The TT is compatible for sure but I don't know if the clutch pedal is the same or not.
Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
View 14 RepliesOk so I took my R out to look track to get some 1/4mile passes in. Didn't do anything out of the norm. Took my first pass and noticed that much clutch pedal wasn't feeling right. It wasn't grabbing like it usually does, it was grabbing close to the floor. I took it out of gear and pumped the clutch peddle a few times and then it grabbed like it normally would. I've never had something like this happen in any of my VWs or any other car. What may have happened? I was thinking maybe a slave cylinder issue?
View 7 RepliesI had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
View 4 RepliesThis morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
I have a question about an annoying issue that I'm having with the clutch pedal: is it normal for the clutch pedal to knock or vibrate whenever the AC is on? I ask because it only happens when the AC is turned on. The knocking goes away if I fully depress the clutch pedal or only lightly depress it. It seems to only occur in the in-between.
View 2 RepliesSo my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
Experienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
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