Golf IV R32 :: Recurring Codes - Steady Ticking Noise From Engine
Sep 26, 2011
So over the last couple months every couple of weeks my car throws a couple codes:
17497 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 2; Range 1: Lean Limit Exceeded
P1089 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
17559 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air; Bank 1; Range 1: System too Lean
P1151 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
If I clear them things are fine for a week or two, then they return. I'm gonna check my intake, as I may not have a good seal on all the couplers (EIP CAI with the replacement for the accordian pipe). Otherwise I'm thinking injectors?
As to the noises, with the key turned to ACC ON but without turning over the engine I hear a steady ticking. It sounds like a mechanical clock, and it's coming from behind the brake fluid reservoir. During the VAGCOM autoscan the ticking noise speeds up while it scans the ABS system. There are no codes on the ABS, but I've never noticed this ticking sound there before. It it normal?
Lastly, after turning off the car I could hear a little motor. It's at the front, and after popping the hood I could hear what I assume was coolant flowing through the piping behind the radiator on the driver's side, however, the fans are not running. I assume if the coolant is flowing the car is in its cool down phase and the fans should be on at low speed. Since they aren't I'm assuming I've got the common fan issue. Does that sound right or is it normal for the coolant pump to be running without the fans?
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1998 Chevy Ext. Cab 1500 Z71 4x4
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I have a customer with a 2011 that has a ticking noise that developed into a engine miss with no fault codes. His mileage has dropped from 18 mpg to 14.5 . Heard the noise more pronounced in the left bank. Tonight I disassemble the engine and found the rocker arms by the pivot ball are showing signs of recent wear looks as if they had a die grinder taken to them. The rockers spear loose? The truck has over 100k on it.
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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So this ticking sound isn't coming from the back of the car as I've searched. I'm positive its coming from somewhere in the engine bay. When the engine is on, I can hear a tick every half a second and I'm a little concerned because this hasn't happened previously.
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About a two weeks ago, I had a CEL pop up. I brought it in to the stealership to get it scanned. I don't recall what the exact code was, but the description was something to the effect of "Cooling System Performance." I hadn't noticed that the engine temp was any different than it had ever been, so we kinda figured it was just a bad sensor. We popped the hood just to take a look at things, but he didn't really notice that anything was off. I thought the engine sounded a little difference. It wasn't idling rough, but there was a very subtle ticking noise. He didn't think anything of it. So he cleared the code, and sent me on my way.
The code came back a few days later, but disappeared about a week ago. Since then, however, my .:R has been feeling a little different. Like I'm losing torque. The ticking noise has become distinctly louder, although I can only hear it when I pop the hood. Last night, i was listening to it, and there are two separate noises, coming from two different locations. One is coming from the left side of the engine, most likely from one of the belts. The other is the one that worries me the most, as it's quite a bit louder. This ticking noise seems to be coming from the engine itself. The longer I let the car idle, the louder it gets.
One of my friends took a listen, and he suggested that it could be a blown piston ring. This would explain why I'm losing torque, but I haven't noticed any blue smoke coming from my exhaust.
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Problem: After oil change where I previously had 5W-30 with valvoline dino, I changed with a different brand 5W-30 (Peak brand). Ticking noise started immediately from engine area usually only after it got up to temperature. Also using different oil filter. Initially not sure if it was injector or lifter tick. It ended up being lifter tick, and the give away was when going down a small hill and the engine downshifting, the increase RPM caused the tick to increase at the same rate. So here is the path I went down.
1. Swapped out oil filter - no change. I thought this might work because I was using a fram tough guard.
2. Added some rislone with ZDDP additive. Quieted down the valvetrain quite a bit, but did not solve the problem
3. Added rislone engine treatment. Got better, but still not totally solved.
4. Tried to "drive it out" and get some mileage on the rislone . Didn't work. Definitely better though
Finally, after all that I figured let's give my baby some of the thick sauce. So I pulled out a quart from the diptube with my suction device and put in a quart of 10W-40. Almost immediately PROBLEM GONE. So either that crappy peak oil doesn't have the viscosity that it advertises, or the valve train is just getting old and needs a little bit thicker oil in the summer. Probably both. I will also keep using a small dose of the ZDDP additive to extend the life of the valvetrain, as it sounds really good with that stuff in the system.
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Two days ago I started to hear a strange engine ticking noise. This is not the normal sound of the injectors pushing fuel into the engine, i know what that sounds like. This is far louder. And when I start to accelerate, the ticking becomes faster. When I cruise at a steady speed, the engine starts to sputter until I press on the gas or brake.x I took it to my local dealer and they ran codes and did an oil change. The guy told me to drive the car around for a bit and the noise will disappear. They also told me that if it did not disappear then I am basically screwed because it could mean that "my valves collided with my pistons due to over exceeded engine speeds" I will post a picture of the code and a video of the sound. [URL] ....
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What are the known causes of a brand new car misfiring? And what should I have VW look at?
When I mentioned that our family has a 2007 Eos all three dealers were chomping at the bit for me to bring it in for recalls I didn't even know about. This really rubbed me the wrong way. I've got one car that I KNOW is malfunctioning that VW won't do any work on, but the other VW is volunteering to work on!
I've got another appointment set for tomorrow after I get off work. How to push the right buttons or say the right words?
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The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
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In December, when the check engine light went on again, I discovered it would turn off if I filled the car with gas. It still comes back on; if I either fill the car with gas, or simply open and close the gas cap, the check engine light will turn off after 3 - 4 trips with the car. What does the gas cap have to do with the torque converter?
What's really weird is that the light always comes on under the same conditions. Most of my driving is short trips, a couple of miles in town at around 30 mph. The light never comes on during "town" driving. My highway driving consists of trips of about 1 hour; parking for an hour or two; then returning home -- again, about an hour's drive. The check engine light always comes on when I'm doing highway driving on the trip home. I've clocked the mileage for the last 3 times the light came on. It came on after highway driving a total of 48, 51, and 48 miles, respectively.
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I have a loud ticking noise (not the normal injector noise) that just started out of nowhere. The car felt fine even while making the noise. I have 97000 miles on her and this is the first time she's let me down. I'll take a video tomorrow. Any common problems come to mind?
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Need to identify this noise? Don't be too alarmed by the engine tick. I had the recorder up close to the engine.
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