Golf IV R32 :: Rear Wells Don't Engage
Jun 24, 2012
My rear wells don't engage...long story short, we hooked it up to a vag-com, it couldn't even communicate with the controller and the car wasn't throwing any other codes. I put it in the air and spinning the left turn clockwise makes the right tire turn counterclockwise, so that's normal... I took the connector off the Haldex controller and it had fluid in the connector... so I'm a victim of the Haldex fluid migration, now I'm lost on how to fix it? is it the pre-charge pump leaking? Do I replace the controller and pump? I need my R to feel like an R again, and not an fwd GTi ...
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited, I'm noticing some heavy rusting in the wheel wells especially in the rear (not sure if wells are the right term), what can I do?
It's very ugly, It has very heavy surface rust, the car is 2011, I don't remember seeing this much damaged when I purchased the car last winter. I took it to the dealership, they said they cant change it because it is purely aesthetic and the components still work.
I'm researching rust proofing, but that seems more like a preventative action than a remedy, what can I do, it really annoys me every time I look at it. I don't know why Hyundai chose such poor material inside the wheels that rusts so easily. I have compared it to other Sonatas I see on the street, mine is a lot worse.
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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I bought a 2000 lincoln LS from my father-in-law knowing it had some issues. We were incorrectly told that it needed cam shaft sensors, but I had it checked out myself today.
4 (out of 8) cylinders are misfiring. He opened it up and saw that on the right bank 1 of the spark plug wells was filled with oil, and the other 3 the tubes are seeping. He also said 3 of the coils need replaced. Whoever had the car originally replaced 3 coils (they're 3 different part numbers on the coils they used).
I've been researching and the first suggestion is changing the valve cover gaskets and removing the oil to see what problems if any it eliminates.
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My 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
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I just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
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I have an 01 f150 with 5.4 triton. This has been great truck, never really had to do anything to it. It has 195k on it. Week or so ago it started running rough. So I replace the plugs and coils. I noticed some of the plug wells had oil in them. Got done and the truck is running like new.
Not sure where the oil is coming from. Not the piston as the plug was dry on the tip and truck not smoking any. I has began using a quart or so between oil changes. I have always changed it every 3k. Is it just time for new motor. Like I said it is running like new.
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I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
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I have a 2009 Toyota RAV 4, it has about 53,000 miles and I am the original owner. About 4 days ago my husband drove the car home from a trip to town, and I commented there was a clear thick oil leaking from all 4 tire wells. He pointed out it some of it had started before he left, but when he came home, it was worse. It continued to leak, but seemed to slow down.We brought it to the Toyota dealer and they have had it two days. They claim the drove the car, and let it sit overnight and they don't find anything or see any more leak. My husband cleaned the floor, and now we have four giant oil stains on the garage floor, it looks like someone spilled mineral oil or another clear oil.
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My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
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I just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
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When I park, the climate system adjusts to send air down to the foot wells. The climate system keeps the air running long enough to drain the left side battery. I replaced both batteries two days ago. This morning my, brand new, left battery was dead again. The first two weeks I owned the car I never noticed the climate staying on, only the last 6 days.
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I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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OK, so for the last few days it gets harder and harder to get into 1st, the rest are fine. Now it will not engage at all. If it were cable, shouldn't it also have problems in other gears? Even with the car off and clutch out, 2,3,4,5,and 6 all go in and stay just fine. First gear feels as if there is a physical blockage. Thoughts?
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On my commute home today I tried to engage cruise only to find that would not engage. I cycled the switch a few times but that didn't work. I told a friend of mine about it and he mentioned that he experienced problems with his cruise on his GTI after he had switched the units on the MFD. Even though I didn't switch my units, when I got home I put the car in park and changed the units from U.S. MPH to KM/H and then back again to U.S. MPH. Lo and behold, cruise worked again afterward. Strange.
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Out of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
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MKIV jetta GLI, first two gears just won't engages as if it's still in neutral. Have to start her moving from 3rd. What could be the issue?
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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