So after about 3k on my rear sway I checked everything to make sure its tight. All is tight, but i notice it moves very little but its enough to make noise and drive me nuts. hard to explain but if you see the h&r bar it has very small allen head screws inside a ring that keep the bar in place where it bolts to the frame there is only a 1/16 of an inch or so of play and its driving me nuts.
View 14 RepliesI installed my sway on saturday and it went smoothly. The bushings were greased up, bolts were torqued to spec, nothing was rubbing or touching in anyway. Now I am getting a knocked noise coming from the rear passenger side. after driving it for a day or so i check under the car to make sure nothing loosened up and everything was just how it was when i installed it. What the issue could be, but the noise is really annoying.
View 4 RepliesSo I recently installed a GTI sway bar on my 2010 TDi and was getting a clunking noise. I assumed that it would be the subframe making noise since I've read a lot about that but the sway bar is actually rubbing on the front portion of subframe (the part that bolts to the frame directly above the A-arm). It's hardly touching it but its enough to wear into the bar.
View 4 RepliesRear sway bar make noise when you go over bumps in the road?
View 24 RepliesSo putting the new extended links on my truck, not sure if they are supposed to be seated flush on both the frame and sway bar itself before tightening them down. This is how they are sitting now --
You can see a little gap between the rubber fitting where the bushing sits and the frame mount. Just wanted to make sure before I torque it down. Its the same on the other side as well. They are sitting flush on the sway bar.
So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
View 18 RepliesI'm pretty certain that my 22mm neuspeed sway bar bushings are shot. they squeak like crazy and when I looked at them to grease them up it looked like they had space, oh and they knock like crazy. Any better source or place to check locally? Would Napa carry something like this? and is Poly my only option? would a rubber bushing wear quicker?
View 3 RepliesSo as the title states, rear sway install, no issues (so I thought ) go to test drive the car afterward, and the headlights go through the normal sweep, but, they don't come up and level out, instead, they are pointing 10ft in front of the car.
The test drive was otherwise flawless, the R responds well to swaybars, my Mk6 TDi did as well, I just have the rear H&R bar on the softer/street setting for now, but it makes a notable difference just on its own in the soft setting, I'm pleased.
Back to the issue now at hand, I researched and so far came up with there is a sensor on the drivers side LCA on the rear of the arm, and one on the rear subframe that has a push rod type arm (looks like a servo) attached to it and a bracket on the subframe, Is this correct? The sensor in the rear is intact, plugged in, and I traced the wire back to the wheel well and there is no evidence of a ground, pulled or severed wire. I have no scanning equipment and am leery of going to the dealer and letting them plug into the ECM for anything now that I am tuned, not really for warranty, more for I don't want to risk anything being corrupted or altered.
Last Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
Installed coilovers last weekend, and heard a clunking on the rear drivers side. I figured i'd let it settle a week before going back and double checking everything and setting the height i wanted, but everything seems tight and it still clunks when i go over bumps.
I realize I can speculate all i want online, but I'd like possible causes before I start digging.
- top strut mount gone bad (there a way to test this?)
- top strut loose (either to the car or to the strut itself)
- springs not seated perfectly
And I have searched, but i cant find any possible solutions.
Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
View 5 RepliesI installed my hks ssm yesterday,it sounded great except for a clunking noise every time i pass by an uneven road...i found out that the hks pipe was hitting "the round thing next to the shocks" ... that's why the oem muffler had a little round stopper.. I tried to wrap it with a little exhaust wrap thinking it would fix it but it did'nt, just wondering if there's a DIY or something for this problem.
View 11 RepliesAfter having lowering springs installed, I've been noticing a clunk noise in the rear suspension when driving over dips in the road (eg. getting out of the parking lot onto the main road). It feels like having your wheels lifted in mid-air and being dropped onto the road.
View 14 RepliesFront sway bar bushings causing "clicking" noise while turning the steering wheel? Usually happens when I'm moving into or out of a parking spot and while I'm turning my steering wheel. I got the driver side, I believe, lower control arm replaced and after that i started getting a faint clicking noise when I'm turning the steering wheel.
The dealer, after multiple visits, discovered it's the front sway bar bushing causing the noise. They said it's really not worth the cost, since it's isn't a safety issue and the whole sway bar needs to be replace since you can't buy bushings alone. I want to get rid of the noise regardless of safety or not.
So I'm backing out of my driveway today and I hear the loudest (in one of my cars) double clunk noise ever, coming from the passenger side front. Turns out one of my kw v2's decided it wanted to try and come apart at that corner.
Note: I had one side on a jackstand and could not find the cause until I removed the front swaybar endlink. It was putting tension on the arm and not allowing the movement to be found.
The shock insert inside the coilover body was moving up and down about a 1/8 inch clunking at the top and bottom of its travel. This is the retainer that loosen causing the clunking. I found that the spanner wrench from my dewalt angle grinder, fit the retainer well enough to tighten it down snug.
I can't get mine to latch. It makes the noise but not catch. Everything looks fine as far as I can tell but it just doesn't catch all the way and won't lock closed. I checked the adjustment bumpers and that doesn't seem to do anything. I can tell it is going all the way closed, but motorized latch isn't catching and pulling the door close.
View 5 RepliesMy rear brake makes a whining noise when I go on reverse. I know is brake related because while on reverse, if I barely touch the brake pedal the noise goes away. But without touching the brake pedal whines and sometimes loud and is embarrassing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford F-150 small box bought new, now has 80,000 miles. The rear end started to make a slight roaring noise that started to turn into a vibration. That turned into a major vibration (windshield wipers would hop). I figured a bad U-joint, but it had no "clunking sounds". I took it to a non-dealer mechanic and he said the "rear end is shot, and also a bad leaf spring..." I do not tow with this truck, or go off road, but it does have a Tommy lift installed. Does this sound normal for the miles and usage of the truck? Any recalls for this model that effects the rear end?
View 16 RepliesSearched but all I see about "scraping" is from too low or tires scraping but this is a different issue, well i think it is, so my bro has golf 2.5 2 dr, he installed his DG Springs today and it makes this scraping noise, it comes and goes, it makes the same noise even if in straight pavement or not bouncing...
Here is a video of it making that noise, it starts at 0:50 secs : [URL] .....
Have the HPA SHS installed now. Everything is aligned. Getting the worst clunk noise when moving the car backwards. The noise comes from the front right. Clunking with slight vibration felt in steering wheel. Also clunks when straightening out the wheel to move forward. The noise stops once I start going. What could cause this?
View 24 RepliesOkay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
[URL] .....